RobPhoboS

Double check in the manual (em.pdf - page 34) for your year of car - it does say 16mm in the manual though: http://www.nicoclub....ce-manuals.html I bought a long tube one from Halfords - just take a replacement spark with you to double check the size. bc1987: so you don't drop it and crack the ceramic material Also, iirc my one said 14mm on the tube confusingly.

It's utter bollox mate BUT don't dwell on this stuff, just move on and stay positive. Try something like this - it MAY help, you never know: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Am-Tech-Dent-Repair-Tool-Kit/dp/B0053OJJ7I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1429182760&sr=8-1&keywords=dent

Yeah it's a case of the wiring loom blocking the cover either removing, or installing. You'll see as you start to do it. It'll take a bit more time but in the end make it easier to do the job - so of course, it's up to you. You don't need help, just time - I prefer doing these things myself typically, just so I know exactly what's going on, and that it's my car - I want to ensure I've torqued things up or what not.

Easy to say but in that split second the risk of a scuffed wheel seems better than a full on ding and the brain takes over.... There are a few roads where I know it gets tight with high curbing on one side, my automatic response is to just slow right down and if a big car\lorry is coming I stop. As I've done it a few times I'm wary of tight spaces just in case, if you're mentally aware of it, I believe it takes part of the reaction time right down as with anything... (imho)

Any time there's a situation like that I just stop the car to avoid exactly what happened. At least they can be repaired bud

Ok so it's not finished yet, doesn't look pretty but another 'early access' Steam game, however it's actually nuts the detail they've gone in to http://www.automationgame.com

You may want to have a search on brake bias and the effects of dicking around with it EDIT: If you've got a mug of coffee to hand - read this: http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/white-paper---brake-bias-and-performance-why-brake-balance-matters

I can hear it when it's idling but I've no idea what it means unfortunately, hopefully someone else does.

So I applied the RTV sealant around the bolt holes in the rocker cover groove as shown in the video, you could be totally right that it's not required but I felt it's worth having. It also helps keeping the gasket from falling out, and possibly reducing any issue of pinching (imho). Yes, it takes 24 hours to fully cure but around 30-40 mins to go from it's initial malleable state to being a bit more rubbery for want of a better word. He does show that in the video, and because it was cold outside, it put them inside the house with some weight on top of it (not loads). I promise it's not a hard job, just time consuming and it's really worth taking your time, getting reference photo's and labelling things up. I think I swore twice (I over torqued one of the upper plenum bolts - snap , and I couldn't get that plug off from one of the pics) I should also add, I'm going to do an oil change (argh, only did this about 6 weeks ago) for 2 reasons. If there were any particles of old sealant\plastic\dirt that fell into the engine I want it out, and also so I can keep an eye on the oil level. I'll probably pop some new spark plugs in as well at the end of the month.

Read the manual & watch the video (seriously, it tells you in there). Pick you year of car here: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-350z-factory-service-manuals.html Read the ec.pdf (page 45 that's what "EC-45, "FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE"" means) and the em.pdf for the rest of the job. Then come back and ask if you are still confused mate

So if anyone else is going to embark on this, aside from what you get in the handy kit, watch the videos several times and printing the manual out like he does, makes it far easier to see settings for torque spec etc: Odds and sods: Top up oil (in case you er loose some ) Head torch Low torque - Torque wrench (2-20nm will do it) - buy one and bloody use it - f'ing tight doesn't cut it. Various ratchet extenders Good quality 10mm sockets - most of the bolt heads on this job are 10mm, so I used a couple of different ones (small, deep etc) Crows foot socket (just 10mm will do for this job - don't get a crap cheap set, look for a reasonable kit like the Draper one - check the design differences in the pics - I forgot I had this in the shed so made do with a 10mm ratchet spanner for the hard to get to right bank bolt in the bottom corner) Can of carb cleaner (useful for cleaning the inside of the rocker covers, and sprayed onto a mf cloth to wipe down the metal of the mounting point) Cling film (I used this to cover various pipes and holes into the engine) Long nose pliers (some of the clips are a pain to reach - something like this will help): http://www.amazon.co...1" LONG HANDLES I can't stress this enough, having the manual to hand is a must as it tells you exactly what to do. RTFM Here are various pics I took when I remembered, I was by myself so I typically just want to get on with the job. In the beginning: (my mum's neighbour gave me a large marquee tent a few weeks ago - very handy as it initially kept the rain out, then later the sunshine from cooking me) Pull the fuse to the fuel pump, crank it a few times - in PDF manual EC-45, "FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE" Difference between left and right covers - notice the oil residue on the left one (it was even underneath the air filter box). This plug slowed me down completely, it's at the back of the left bank but I couldn't feel how to bloody get it off, so in the end I left it on, probably would have been better off tbh It's also mentioned in the z33 garage video. One cover off: Check how oily this bugger is: Both off - and just ensure you cover up the cams etc I didn't bother taking photo's of cleaning up the covers as it's pretty obvious. The only thing I'd recommend is to use something thin and blunt to get a bit of microfibre cloth into the gasket grove, to ensure it's fully clean. And use enough RTV sealant or this happens... (still pongs of burnt oil as loads more than that came out ) So the initial attempt certainly did take it's time, so give yourself plenty if you've not done this before. On my second go at it, stripping it back took around 1.5hrs but then I was super dooper anal about cleaning the surfaces properly and letting the RTV cure for 40mins on the cover gasket and the engine L bits you plop on. So it was another very late night by the time I had done that bit again. I also re-sprayed the upper plenum and gave it a clean

Mods - we've got a TROLL !!!!

It still drives perfect though, no missing no nothing. its spot on. just smoking a lot, when i changed the oil 4.5 litres came out. thats pretty much what i put in 600 miles ago, barr the oil filter. I wonder what the heck it is though, just seems weird that it's happened after plug/oil change. Then again one of my compression arms started knocking immediately after I changed the suspension, so could just be random timing.

At least you'll know what's causing the issue after he's looked it over. I think you were a bit daft for driving it hard whilst it's clearly not well, hopefully it's nothing serious at all

Search on YouTube, z33 garage - it's on there.

Hey guy's, just got back to London, I've done around 70 miles now, stopping a few times to just double check things over. Except for the stink of oil that landed on the manifold yesterday, all seems well and I'm having my celebratory beer now! At some point tomorrow I'll get some pics/tips up.

I left the car running until the fans kicked in about an hour ago, no leak, I'm guessing it was just a bit of grit that caused the problem. I'll order a new O ring anyway, and later I'll be running the car and checking the rocker covers. Cheers guys.

Actually I think it was a spec of grit on one of the washers. I reassembled it, fired it up and it seems OK now. I'll check a bit later properly as I'm waiting for the rvt to cure fully on the rc gasket.

I finished up again last night at 2:30am haha. It only took an hour to strip it back down but then just took my time cleaning it up again. I'm praying to the v6 God's that it's ok this time.

I had to undo the 2 bolts holding the fuel pipe connection, as shown in the pic. Prior to that I released the pressure as stated in the manual. The 2 bolts and washers look fine as well as the O ring on the pipe connecter, I torqued them up to just under 10nm (9.6nm in the manual). Any ideas as to what could be causing this?

If you're going to be tracking it a bit, get a couple of cooling ducts, cold air feeds made (demon tweeks sell the parts), that should help out a fair bit as well. If you search on the US forums, you'll see plenty of pics. When was the last time you bled the rbf600? (As iirc that fluid is meant to be done every 6 months!) Lastly I thought it was ideal to do one cool down lap and bring it in for 10-20 mins and then head back out.

Did they firm up some time after cooling down?

Yeah just the edge of the rocker, around one of the bolts... Soo just about to get on with it and do that side again. I either pinched it or not quite enough rvt around that one specifically.

Ah nice one! Well I just finished putting everything back together. Fired it up just to make sure I connected everything, no problem... But some oil is seeping out from the right bank (or left if you're looking at it from the front), just on the cover bolt 4. I tightened it up a fraction more but I don't know what to do. Just having a break, was thinking to put some more rtv down in that spot. Arrrgh.

Obviously this question was tumbling around my head as I've just done the grommet replacement. It's obviously something to do with the design and I wonder if they just ran out of r & d time? (I don't know how many miles they put on their development cars but probably not quite enough).