KyleR

Arc oil catch can, +1 spare for me (350Z version) Totally serious BTW

Will, I may be wrong, but I don't think the roadster had bluetooth phone until the HR, so those buttons wouldn't.

Safe option is always to go with the insurance, that way you're guaranteed to have the work done to an acceptable standard, providing the insurance company allows you to choose where to have the job done. However, as you mention, you don't want to screw the young fella up for the next few years. If the dad seems sound and runs a good restoration business, then that seems like a good option to me, so long as he doesn't just basically flip write offs on the cheap. Decemeber 2012 my partner was rear ended (Yeroo) by a young driver. Her dad came down to see the damage the next day after we had a quote at a shop that I was happy with. I'd previously googled him and found he was a school principal, so that filled me wilt confidence that he'd do the right thing. We agreed to leave the car in at my body shop and once it was finished, he'd call over to pay for it and we'll all be done with it. Everything went off without a hitch and the car was looking better than ever. 3 weeks later we traded in it for a 1 series, but thats besides the point Personally, i'd give the dad a chance, but as mentioned earlier, check out his business and see if it's the kind of place you can trust to do the work to your standard. I'd also consider bringing the car to another shop to get an idea of whats needed. They may be able to tell you if the hinges are damaged or the frame. Then you can agree to source the parts that are required and he can pay for them, that way they'll have already paid for the part and can't pretend to have replaced it, when they just bent it back.

I agree. Usually what I tell people is to go and do everything, gear, diff, engine oils, brake fluid, Coolant, belts and plugs. But if your belts look new and have evidence of a plug change then forget those Depending where you are, take it to a good Indy, there are a few specialists on the forum which may be close and can look the whole car over for you.

When I was lifting cash out to buy the car 2 years ago I think the max was £1500 and had to order if I wanted more. On top of that I could only get a max of £5k on any one day Good job I wasn't buying a 10-12k HR then!

I'm guessing that the key battery was dieing and now dead. By changing the battery out you've wiped the memory so now have to repair it with the car as above

Been around for a while, but as mentioned already, it dries a kinda white cloudy matt finish which isn't ideal for cars unfortunately. I'm sure it's only a matter or time before they improve it though.

So long as you do the relearn procedure it'll be fine. I've fettled with mine numberous times

As far as you know Zed only has 1 key and it's always on me oh wait you meant...

you don't say That sentence is the understatement of the century

Brilliant. ...should add and only you're allowed to rag it. I thought I'd be a little more subtle than that

Mines the more square version too, same steps to set it up. I have those instructions at home too but found EPR's easier to follow

Would you hire out your girlfriend? Same effing thing, only I'm allowed in it

Check ep racings subsection, that's where I got the calibration instructions.

Do I have to do everything around here? http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/62527-arrans-azure-350-gt-black-handles-more-12414/page__st__100 Post No. 107.

Ata boiiii! Even if it's just to satisfy all of our curiosity, it'll be worth it

Link for us lazy people lol

I assume thats the Invidia N1 or whatever it was called? I have the Gemini and the logo is lasered on, unlike yours which looks better than mine

Why have you written you post like a poem?

Don't most cars make that whining noise when reversing?

That's bit crap Did you have it sanded down to to bare metal and use bit of rust prevention stuff? (krust I think it is called) I done that before on one of my previous cars that was good as new after that. It was brought back to the metal, yes, also a large section cut out around the rust and a new piece welded in, Waxoil was also sprayed inside the skin to try to hold back the rust from coming again.

Only sure fire way is to buy a new rear quarter (i'm assuming it's the rear) and have it replaced. The quarter will cost over £600 new and the labour will cost similar or more. The problem with these is that the rear quarter is dual skinned. So, once the rust is in it, it's in it and no matter what you do, it's not going anywhere. I've have mine cut out and repaired twice, each time lasting about 6-8 months before showing again.

No, there is a rev limiter, but if you're doing 100 mph in 4th gear and put the car into 2nd, nothing can be done, the gearbox will @*!# itself.

Tyres will be if it has 19" LMGT4's, the brakes I've not heard about. Maybe you're looking at the 2007 USDM Nismo?

I only have this problem when I use a pressure washer on the car. Seals are on their way out. Hope they're not too expensive or maybe there is a way to recondition them?