evilscorp

i SWEAR YOU READ PEOPLES MINDS. Just thought I would browse through the list thinking to myself there will be nothing I need and one nugget pops out that no one else could possibly want but me. You will have my order in the morning grudgingly

having to waste more time on the chrysler as I realized the dust boots need to be pressed into the brake caliper so now I need to make a tool to do this (one less cheap hole saw no doubt.) meanwhile I got some parts back from the powder coaters... someones favourite colour on the forum, probably end up covering them in waxoil as well for extra protection.but they seem hole free, hopefully the rust should remain dormant under it.

I would suggest asking the bodyshop you will be working with what they would prefer. IMO they would want to use fresh steel and fabricate their own panels, the oem is two skins joined with sealent and isn't great, even more so trying to weld with it as it will catch fire/ruin the weld.

The CHRYSLER 300C is just getting new front brakes and a refresh of the calipers then selling when the NISSAN 200sx rust bucket is rebuilt and becomes my daily =p

Some upside down welding... still needing more practice but I have plenty to learn on Sadly my daily driver 300C decided to seize both front brakes on a trip to Manchester so having to try rebuilding the calipers. Think my iphone camera is on the way out =( None of the videos I seen online had this problem. Both pistons came out fine with the compressed air but neither boot wanted to simply be pulled out! I think they must have melted onto the caliper as nothing could get them off and they just ripped with pliers. Ended up having to scrape and burn them out, hopefully they work as new calipers are nearly £300 for a car I don't love and want rid of (once the koukicuda is ready). As clean as I could get, the inner seal crevice is rubber free and they fortunately came out fine.

Some hard to buy small brand American goodness supplied by Torqen, Thanks guys! Sadly I could not picture the free chocolate as it's in my tummy already. =) The parts are 200sx to 350z diff mounting bushes if anyone cares lol.

I would go with the INGs style as it looks like it fits a 350z, every other one WILL need the bases modified to fit the curve of the 350z tailgate. I think mine is a megan racing one, I wasn't up for bending the legs to the curve of the car so I ghetto cut up a chopping board to mount it to the tailgate so I wouldn't get vibrations or noise while still being strong and functional (probably, depends on the height you set it from the roof and the distance). Might have some pics on my build thread if I can find them.

steering rack and subframe removed along with some radiator brackets and other stuff. main chassis rails are in good condition on the inside, not so good on the outside, have yet to look underneath =/ Cleaned them up and some of the suspension turrets then coated with zinc primer to stop them rusting while I cut out the death and weld in fresh metal. Quite boring but these pictures help understand where stuff goes so bare with me.

As above it’s only on sales. As for the power needed to run electric cars. . . . Been waiting for a long time for the first new nuclear power plant to be built and the old ones will start being decommissioned in the next 10 years = no base load = power shortages = useless cars.

Hello :-)

So after my fuel starvation issue I thought I better get round to fitting my gauge and pillar pod I've had for years. Left the car sitting for days so not much fuel came out. The pillar pods didn't want to accept my gauge so needed a bit of sanding... Not hooked up my oil sandwich adapter yet so its just an engine temp sensor for now lol. Stupidly I hooked the 12v acc cable up to the rear fog light..... so the gauge only works when the lighting circuit is powered on lol.. need to find an easily accessible 12V accessories cable somewhere in the drivers footwell. Took her for a spin and the gauge works and so does she, max fuel pressure was 55 and lowest 38, just need to read the instructions to change some of the neat functions on the gauge and change the colour. Top Pod will probably be filled with a clock for now as I need another lambda 02 sensor for the other bank of the engine and this car is not on the top of the pile for working on.

Turbo shaft has 1-2mm of play so should be fine for a few more miles, Oil return line will need changed, if I cant clean the pipe up it will be swapped for some braided hose. Sadly the original exhaust stud is too long to fit the 3" apex turbo elbow so it will need shortened and then the elbow might need some bashing or grinding to fit the 350z gearbox, since its a lot larger. Removed the last few items from the wheel wells before the cutting and welding work begins. To remove the steering and front subframe I think I just have to undo a clamp beside the red paint pen mark (not sure), then four big bolts under the subframe. Then I should be able to remove the lot for a clean and new steering rack bushes and maybe some offset spacers and other bits =)

Hello :-)

I think I tried contacting them previously and got a decent response, sadly neither myself or them contacted each other and my engine build went on the back burner. ** Not sure if we will be able to carry out the bottom end balance in house at a reasonable cost . V-configured engines require either different types of machines or very intricate balancing techniques. If we are to do this type of dynamic balance in-house we would need to design, manufacture & fit special counter weights to your big-end journals. In order for us to do this we would need to know the correct balance factor specific to your crankshaft, which unfortunately is not information OEM's generally give out. Alternatively if you send your old OEM con-rod & piston assembly inc. bearings & rings, along with your new rods & pistons, it may be possible to calculate the balance factor but it's a pretty tricky job and will involve a lot of work. If we manage to calculate the balance factor we would have to manufacturing a set of counterweights to prove our sums are correct and then make up another set of counterweights to simulate the difference in weight of your replacement piston & con rods assemblies. As you can imagine it's extremely difficult to even hazard a guess at what this might cost. However, I have a couple of contacts who might be able to help with this at a reasonably attractive price, so don't despair, I'm just waiting to hear back from them... ** But that was 2014 so things have probably moved on and Agra might be able to do it easier now.

I think they substitute the rods,pistons,rings with weights they bolt onto the crank so they can spin the crank,flywheel,crank pulley,clutch and see where the imbalance is with computers. It’s still not ideal IMO as it doesn’t take into account the weight of each piston at different stroke lengths which will change the forces acting on the crankshaft. Most places I had talked to in Scotland can’t do it either :-(

Engine out. Ended up using a mix of sling and chains on bolts. Plan to tidy this up and remove some unused pipes and weld some holes shut in the firewall. So my first mistake of quite an easy job (surprisingly) was not to undo the bottom two gearbox bolts. Back up again and jack under the box as doing this myself was a bit scary as this sh#' is heavy. Then I realized its not like roadkill american V8's the dam torque converter still has lots of oil in it and is bolted to the flywheel, which need to be accessed through an inspection hatch on the bottom of the block (hopefully). Getting the box off took a lot of wriggling. But now I can swap to the Apex exhaust 3" elbow easier and a few other bits and bobs (remove AC pump,) Glad I have the hoist as it was a pain to drain the fuel tank but used a sling to tilt it and drain from the filler pipe. (nearly empty so the fuel pump will be swapped soon.)

Can you make your thread titles more self explanatory please. I seem to frequently stumble upon major build threads of yours by accident which means I have probably missed 847 crazy car builds of yours which have been going on and finished before I can even do 1.

First time i've used the car since the issue, I had my dad rev the car while I looked at the fuel pressure gauge on the regulator and it seemed fine, raised slightly when rev'd as expected with a rising rate regulator. I also remembered I have a fuel pressure/oil temp gauge sitting in the loft and one of the two pillar pod gauge holders. Sadly the sensor is 1/8 bsp and the regulator hole (I think, stated on aeromotive website) is 1/8 npt. So I have ordered an brass adapter, but I swear the gauge that's on the regulator needed ptfe tape as it was tapered. Anyway should be able to monitor things soon and back to driving it once in a blue moon.

Two 14mm nuts are all that seem to hold the engine to the mounts so they are off, now I just need to find a good place to bolt my engine leveler... nothing on the front looks good, only stuff on the side Still need to undo the gearbox mount but waiting until I know where to lift from/ slings arrive.

So the fuel tank in these is kinda big, just a couple more things to check then the engine and trans is coming out.Straps are dead.Need to wire wheel this all to see if its going to need patches welded here also.old brake and fuel lines are going to be replaced with braided and -6AN hose.Hopefully I can weld a new bracket to this filler neck.last time anything auto will be near the car.

Have you tried a fluid change and some molyslip added at the same time? It worked on mine, well I actually liked the racecar gear whine but it went after the fluid change =( many years ago.

Kinda became sidetracked today as I was fed up struggling to find the correct heater controls in the chrysler 300c daily so ended up soldering in some new LED's and ate up most of my morning and I have work this afternoon =( So back to the koukicuda, Took the heat shield off the tank. . . . ok the first clip disintegrated and I ended up just pulling the rest off violently. The plastic fuel filler neck guard didn't help the corrosion resistance much. The moment I touched it the thing started to fall apart and would have been leaking fuel soon I imagine. Also found more rust so poked a hole. New filler neck needed as the bracket on the chassis is dead and so is the metal neck, the plastic part looks ok but these tanks are known to leak so I may have to coat it in something (some people use truck bed liner?) These fuel lines have been disconnected but I reconnected them as there is still a bit of fuel in the tank and I don't want to leave the garage with an open source of fuel, hopefully tomorrow for dropping..... removing the old tank.

So 350z wheel bearing bolts are 5mm wider spaced apart that s14 items so they won't be getting used =( guess they are now spare for the Z. But new s14 items aren't expensive so I will just have to order some and push out the 5 lug wheel axle from the old ones. This makes the 350z rear handbrake conversion more difficult as the plate holes wont line up..... Think I will leave this for a very distant future project and stick the old system back on for now. Now that Ive finished messing about with dismantling things I don't need I will hopefully drop the fuel tank tomorrow when I get up and set about ordering new braided fuel lines.

Only had a quarter Left in a JDM smaller tank. I had no lights appear on the dash but I will plug in my reader.

Thanks guys, might try opening the bonnet and have someone Rev the car so I can check the fuel pressure is staying stable, don’t think I could put a multimeter on the fuel pump. Not going to drive it until I find something wrong. :-(