evilscorp

Ebay also throws a few wonders your way! Would have cost 3x as much new (without shipping) and has barely been used, it may be a tad over kill though but might as well try a twin carbon clutch once. Came out an s15 so has a thicker flywheel and pilot bushing ideal for my 350z gearbox swap. Last of the grinding around the windscreen, some rust remover applied then a coat of primer on sunday. This is where the windscreen crack started so i thought it may have been the three different panels moving (dead spot welds maybe?) so I stuck a few tack welds to hold them together, IF ANYONE THINKS THIS IS A BAD IDEA FOR CRASH SAFETY OR OTHER WISE PLEASE TELL ME! (I assume you want the passenger cell the strongest part so I may even add a few more to these areas.) most dangerous tool ever. (however it will do wonders on the underseal.) next big holes, template made.

Parts, Parts, Parts!!! Thanks Torqen, you know how much I like keeping you on your toes with specialty items =)

Err you have the cogs the wrong way round in the calculator that would defo blow up the blower 68000 rpm lol

Only a problem if you raise the Rev limit, but as above, not mentioned as a problem much or at all.

Then it's either 928 impellar and 60,000 rpm limit or big boy V7 blowers...... need to actually get round to building my spare engine first.

Plan to run my fluidamper, 3.12 pulley and 32/28 cog pulleys on my v3 sci vortech (non rev-up), it should only just over spin the blower if i remember right, but the time it does this for/ the chance i actually hit the increased rev limit (7000rpm probably) will be so small it shouldn't do any damage, if maintained well. 53,000 is the max speed of the V2 SCi (couldnt find the V3 data atm.) and the speed it would go to on my setup is around 56,000 i think. Seen a few post from america saying it should be ok to over spin the blower slightly as belt slip and acutally hitting the rev limiter are factors to consider.

Cheers Alex, thought that would be the best way to go, saves a few quid too.

Anyone with a cosworth intake bought replacement o ring gaskets for the end caps? If so where from? Finally got round to fitting the intake but thought I would take the end caps off for a look. unfortunately the cap screws were a bit dodgey and will be getting replaced, also a little bit of metal swarf from the previous owner will need blown out. You can see the flakes on the gasket. Since I want a good seal for stopping boost leaks (my problem at the moment, 4 large sealing faces with the motordyne plenum spacer that is now worn and been on the car for years), so I want to make sure this intake is leak free, the gaskets on it at the moment are flat so not much use, I have ordered some 2mm gasket cord and will order some gasket paste to seal the end/join but if anyone knows where i can get the cosworth oem gasket that would be great. part nos ;RH Plenum cap O-Ring 20001319, LH Plenum cap O-Ring 20001320. Thanks

Welder wasn't happy about attaching this, so I had to do the million spot weld method. Also think I should have used my thicker steel for this part but figured if something was to try and burst through it has two layers to go through. Still might put another patch on top for keeping my mind at ease. Need to grind off the slugs and fill any bits I missed but its the missus 30th so I should probably spend some time with her lol.

Most people use uprev, so you might be waiting a while. try contacting vortech yourself?

Grinding off the spot welds and underseal from the sill join so I can weld in a u shaped metal piece to strengthen the sill for future jacking points. Cutting out a patch of rust to see whats behind! Hopefully good metal? nope. Scraped and wire brushed as much of the rust off so I can treat it then weld in some repair patches. Plenty more of this will happen =(

Thanks for all the work bud! Enjoy retirement!

Why did you mention your boot then? No diffuser I know for the 350z goes anywhere near it?

For the kit I bought you get an adapter plate that you fit between the gearbox and engine (some plates you have to cut the gearbox housing which I wasn’t for) then you use a s15 flywheel and clutch, cut the gear shifter linkage and shorten it so it lines up with the hole for the gear leaver in the car, then you have to modify the down pipe so it doesn’t catch on the larger gearbox. Plus bash the trans tunnel a bit so the thing fits. And lastly you need some gps device to send a speed signal to the dash, as the old gearbox had a speed sensor built in.

same belts for both chargers, only things to note are what engine? rev-up or standard de? (different pulley routing so maybe a different belt) and what pulley as above are you using (3.33") also do you have a gtm extra pulley mod? (this also may require a longer belt), Is your crank pulley oem or a fluidampr/ati? (larger pulleys).

Sticking a 350z box in mine as the standard manual isn't that tough. The problem is getting all the pedals etc as they are rare to see up for sale and can cost a few quid, or you can be an idiot like me and try and make 350z stuff fit.... somehow.

I'm in the process of saving a s14a at the moment, car looked ace from the outside and in, had just been HEAVILY undersealed. Took me until I started to strip it down to see how bad it was (after having new sills welded in by previous owner), the whole bottom requires stripping and the rust cut out the worst parts, the inner wings are also badly rotted. only has 45k miles and is a 1999 car but looks like its been kept under the sea. All I would say is buy a recently imported one and poke everything underneith with a screw driver. Its a totally different car to my Z and if I didn't really enjoy its lightweight character it would have been parted out and binned. The Z is also starting to suffer from rust but fortunately it seems a lot eaiser to fix, and the subframe is alu so wont rust. As for the sr20det, I plan to have some turbo fun for a while but eventually it will get a spare VQ35 in there as I want a reliable economic daily driver. Unlike my supercharged 350z.

So, cut my template out of cardboard and bashed part of the floor flat, but think i may need to attach the plate under the floor, rather that place it on top, too tricky to bend to shape and I dont want to try and butt weld yet.

Yup, copper line from abs module to wheel well, small bracket with a fitting which then connects to the flexible rubber oem hose or a new braided line.

todays update, teaching my self to weld again. not bad for first attempt in 14years. ok I lied, took me this mess to figure out the correct settings to use on 0.8mm steel, also need to switch my auto darkening helmet down one as my eye is a tad itchy (arc eye). But the main thing is good penetration, not much splatter, heat warping can be reduced with a copper or alu plate hopefully. My air nibbler was brilliant for cutting through the steel too so I should start making patches and stuff soon. Going to order a dimple die 3/4" for the a pillar roll cage buttrages or whatever they are called.

scobie140, it looks better with the nut spacing out from the bracket but you might need to try some other stuff too so things don't vibrate, I think i put a tiny bit of tension on the rod but hand but can't remember, i will see if i still have the instructions it came with.

ok yours looks like its missing some other washers/bits compared with my timrod one.

Try fitting the bracket like it was meant to be? I have one and it doesn’t make extra noise, yours could possibly move around and the rod looks very close to the s/c bracket which it could be vibrating against, but if you use the other bracket this won’t happen as the spacing will be corrected

I went the other way, but regreting it due to the amount of tin worm on my s14a. you will get issues with the w brace and a few other parts rusting on the z but nothing as bad as 200sx's, rear subframe is alu alloy so no issues there. Welcome btw =)

Windscreen out, tried everything but the sealant used was super tough, had numerous metal wires snap trying that method, the stupid pick tool you pull wasn't much better, even my air scraper wasn't brilliant until i had the thing out to remove the excess.Good old brute force laying on my back kicking the fecker out was the best way but it did leave a few shards in and out the car.