evilscorp

Just back from a quick drive to domino's (new to the area and too far that they won't deliver). On the way there I was driving quite quickly and 1 mile before I stopped to pick up my pizza I did a fast corner around a round about (wide sticky MPSS with reasonable areo so the car corners well!) then slowed down to join traffic. After picking up the pizza the car started ok but seemed a bit juddery, after pulling out to return home the car started to loose power dramatically, I thought I was going to conk out at the side of the road, the A/F was reading off scale lean (not driving fast since leaving domino's) then after 20-30 seconds the car was fine again A/F=14.5, I only have one bank A/F gauge (need to get another) but I am now worried the car has a big issue. I will do a compression test and check my spark plugs (and fix a boost leak I am sure I have) but is it probably likely to have been fuel starvation? I've never experienced it before so I can't determine what it would be like. Thanks. Fuel setup is 600cc detchwerks injectors, walbro 255pump, fuel return system. (if it matters)

So this is going in this Well the important bits are. Diff,driveshafts,wheel bearings and maybe the handbrake setup as the 200sx uses a cable on caliper design. (no internal drums) Fortunately the 350z subframe looks like its from a newer car or hasn't seen much salt as all the bolts are good and should save me a bit of cash if I can use them on the 200sx subframe. The shocks look in half decent nick if anyone wants them? (one is minus the welded nut, but you can just fit a nut to the normal bolt anyway like most aftermarket shocks.) I may keep some of the arms as spares but if anyone needs them let me know.

I knew my bodykit was rare but I have just heard Stardast have basically folded and their main distributor has cut ties with them. I was always worried about getting another set if someone hit my car but now I would be truly screwed. Been searching YouTube for videos in making moulds for fenders but none of them show if they harm the original item. Anyone had any dealings with making moulds and what to use to protect the original item under the copy/mould? i don’t want to take them to knight racer or gramms as they would flood the market with the copy’s.

I have just watched a pod cast from the guys that run driftland and from the sounds of it most places are trying to discurage people with bangers learning to drift on their tracks. They prefer people to have half decent cars that they look after to avoid attracting yobs who smash into other people without a care. The only problem is as you say people have to start somewhere and no point spending a fortune if you end up disliking it. You might want to try a stock car track? If not an old runway, you might find some places are known for certain things but put on drift days too (crail being one up in scotland).

Going to drop the 350z diff at some point and check measurements to see if the angles/sizes are correct.

I hate youtube.... now I have found out you can buy an adapter to fit a 350z diff and driveshafts to the 200sx.... Adds to the whole interchangeable theme I am trying to go for.

More like domestic abuse, had to hacksaw off one stuck chassis bolt, just hope I can weld something onto it and remove it/ or I may just cut the whole section out and see how badly rusted the captive nut is

Slowly getting there, had to fix a sh~t box fiat headgasket which took a few days but the rust is the main slow down. 8V yuk. Think I may buy a rotisserie as I can't weld very well upside down. The old diff cooler has been removed as its most likely fuokd, Saves a decent bit of weight, the diff magnetic plug was full of metal so hopefully its ok. Front propshaft came off easy, the rear is a pig, going to have to cut the nuts off as you cant get a ring spanner over them (too close to diff flange) and the crows foot spanners i bought specifically for this can't shift them without rounding them either. (new bolts will be shorter so I don't have this problem again). Jacking off the diff was easy but there weren't many places to put jack stands that wouldn't crumple, the rear chassis legs seemed a good spot until i couldn't get the hubs off the rusty arms in situ, then it became a pain to try and slide the whole rear subframe out the side on some wood. The passenger driveshaft looks damaged from previous removal or something, it dropped out compared to the other which needed split with a blunt chisel tapping all around. I think this lot is scrap apart from the 5 stud hub. where I gave up today. Plan to strip and shot blast anything that is getting reused.

Found the new colour of my dreams, thought it was midnight purple but that is fantastic! But as above each to their own on how much you wrap the car.

Cheers guys, one less thing to worry about.

Brilliant, thought my stock wheels were 18s same as the rays and it was only the basic jdm cars that had 17s. Cheers for clearing that up.

Not been able to see an answer in the service manual (its a big book so i might have missed it.) What is the smallest diameter wheels you can run with brembos (probably none of you have tried, as its a step backwards!) I was planning to fit my old front brembos onto my s14a 200sx but the wheels I want Rota RKR (watanabe reps) only come in 17" max diameter (-10 offset and could throw a spacer on probably to give some distance outwards due to running fender flares). Do the brembo discs and calipers fit in side a 17" wheel? Cheers.

wait... what...?? lol

Gutted, just booked that weekend off for my sisters mans staggdo. Really want to do this! Fingers crossed they split up so I can then go lol. 24-27th?

whats the condition of the oil filled bush on the rear of the diff? They tend to split and leak oil which could cause unwanted vibration.

I don't think I would add anything to the standard viscous diff as its designed for a certain viscosity liquid so you will throw it out, it may lock up earlier or later, as you say it could be the wheel bearing or the diff shims/ run-out on the ring gear might be slightly worn down and out of spec. Someone else might tell you otherwise in a minute but thats the best thing about forums lol.

Yeah I think the first time you cut up a car you are too scared and end up causing yourself more issues, better to just say f it! What do I want and let’s do that! I live in rural Scotland so stance = broken car and 10mph everywhere lol. I prefer fast and functional but without being a 4x4

More rust. Dodgey dan work, patch over rust, basically going to have to cut the whole rear passenger boot pocket out and redo. Not looking forward to fabbing metal up for that area ^^ more bits need cutting out but thought I would primer it so it doesn't get any worse. MY first UGADUGA! Wish i had one of these in my life a long time ago! abs and aircon gone(aircon may come back if I can find a new radiator for it otherwise bye bye.) Big hole, same happening to otherside and wheel tubs will replace. The end is so long away I don't even think I can see it!

I have been working on both cars and taking photos. . . . just forgetting to upload or remember what I have done. 2nd hand cosworth intake has had new rubber gaskets and the metal shavings removed =/ The rear arches have been cut for a second time... but I took too much off the bottom as i cut along the rivet join. So big spaces to learn how to fill with weld.. took some time. not nice to look at. bit of rust remover over the top. and some primer. one side done! Now the other will be 10x easier as I wont cut the bottom layer, just need to drill out the rivets and cut the top layer and bash it up some more, lack of suspension travel was really annoying and dangerous as fast dips in the road would cause minor tyre rubbing/noise. Most of my time has been spent on the other car. I did make a boost leak tester then realized the vortech bypass valve is always open DOH! so need to blank that off and try again somehow, but I will wait till I switch to the cosworth manifold, just waiting on a new lower intake gasket to arrive before fitting.

Ideal way to do the job if you don't have a welder.

SOLD.

They are cured/made at 150C so should be good as they would probably only deal with half that.

Yes you are correct longsh07, i should have stated that. As you say though you would need to legally get the car towed from and back to an mot station = more than the cost of them doing the repair probably.

item on ebay now. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350z-gt-style-tarmac-sports-Polyurethane-lip/222998698539?hash=item33ebc21a2b:g:iN8AAOSwm8NbDu7u happy bidding.

Problem I encountered the other week was I was unable to take the car away to fix an exhaust leak myself (mig welder at home) as it failed as a major on that or a broken drop link, hand brake needing tightened. Cost me £360 for work i could have done myself for £40 probably. Previously you could still drive your car if your old mot had not yet expired. So whatever garage you take your car to be prepaired for them to do work on it. (don't use cheapo McCheaperson as they might be rubbing their hands with jobs they can make/screw up.)