evilscorp

Have a hunt around the interior in the boot, probably find one there you can pinch to get by with.

I think its just a common 10mm(or 12mm) flanged nut, I wouldn't use a washer though if you can't find a flanged nut as its too easy to drop into the engine from there.

So the other side is just the same, two opposite exhaust studs dont line up so will need to elongate the bolt holes. only sheered one stud.... but managed to get it off eventually.

Surprised how many of the big manufacturer cast manifolds crack, not something I expected and had assumed it was confined to thin stainless manifolds without support brackets. How are your stainless ones preforming? They look like they would give better clearance from the block.

Not the easiest item to lift and impossible to fit yourself when you leave the rear swaybar attached (note to self). Filling the diff is also a pain as the fluid is so highly viscous it takes forever. My method was to leave it like this overnight. All back together. Until I noticed this.. Since I had previously used the oem rubber washers it seems the whiteline items have been squished or something as the metal washer is now obviously just resting on the metal sleeve through the center. No biggie I guess just need to fit the oem rubber washers to fill the gap. I also noticed my rear passenger shock mounting bush on the hub is ripped.... even though I am sure I fitted superpro ones, need to trawl through this pish talk of a thread to see if I changed them and what might have caused them to wear so quickly. Cheap Ebay exhaust gaskets still havent arrived so I might end up in quick fit tomorrow so I can have the car for Friday otherwise its bike to work in the rain.

Also if it was me I would post the part in question so others know to check those parts when they buy them as quality control might not be up to par. And might save someone else a big bill for broken parts. Looking at you whiteline and your diff bushes install instructions! :-p As for the trader I would leave them out as they haven’t done anything wrong.

For the hassle it will cause to post the faulty cat back to America (presumably) and the cost it probably will incur to do so I would just find a decent welder, should only cost £30-50 to fix as you said. It’s annoying, yes and I expect I will come across the same situation as I horde parts and don’t fit them but sadly that’s what happens as oem parts are built with machines and aftermarket are normally hand made in small batches. just make sure your welder is decent if you don’t have good flexi joints or the oem bracket holding the cats

So this is going to be very tight with the stock sr20 turbos T28's Need to do some googling in how to clock turbos and if I need new seals to do it... if I do I might give test fitting a miss for a while. (so I can get the 200sx back on the road). So two holes need extending for the manifold and one other needs a cap screw as the studs are too long. need to also research 300zx turbos to see whats the largest they have used before.

Cheers Alex, Looks like they just shaved a bit too much metal off to give the cap screw access, but that will probably be the same issue I will have with these hopefully not breaking through into a chamber. As for the relocated actuator it does look hellishly close to the gearbox mounting face, are they mounted onto the upper engine oil pan with extended rods to make them fit? Do you think you could fit a GTX2867 in there? Your compressor wheel does look very close to the manifold. (planned to upgrade the sr20 turbo to run a bit more power and then maybe down the line get another one lol or just use two oem sr20 turbos for the VQ.

I didn't touch the bearings or shims as they were good the first time I done them a few thousand miles ago so hoped it would all go back together nicely. Sadly my paint pen didn't show up as good as last time (used yellow before and pink this time) I think there is too much oil on the gears as its not showing up very well but it is transferring a little. Just said F it and blue rtv gasketed her back up, need to wait till tomorrow to fill her up a wee bit and check it doesn't leak out the flanges, it should be fine as i cleaned the seals and used silicone grease on them again which worked before.

I am surprised cast manifolds crack, so you have two sets of the same kind? are the HKS turbos different or same orientation? I have heard I may encounter issues with the wastegate actuator being too close to the block, I have the oem sr20 turbo laying about so I might have a mock up of the lot if I get time, as I mentioned its just for fun keeping my mind thinking.

probably use a mixture of sr20 turbo elbows and custom y-pipe, the engine combo would probably go into the 200sx s14a I have once I blow up that engine hopefully a while away.

Gave myself a scare thinking the runout was wayyyyyy off on the diff..... turns out you shouldn't check it on the part of the ring gear where they have I.D. markings lol. 0.03mm so well within spec just need to use some paint pen for checking the mesh of the gear and then back plate on.

Checked an old gasket which I had kicking about (not sure if its left or right hand bank) but it actually makes the process of drilling new holes seem like it might work?

Yes they would be nice Alex and if I was properly going the turbo route I would want a set of them or the JWT manifolds but I am happy to plod along and eventually plan to test how much I can get from my Vortech SCi small blower. But I like to tinker and plan wayyyyyy wayyyy in advance, so took a punt at trying to play with some 300zx manifolds I got off ebay for £70. Is your spare set a VG30DETT with a new flange cut and welded on?

Just thought I would start a post for anyone searching the internet and stumbling on a post that implied that it was a straight fit. Well it isn’t. I have a spare VQ35DE head (passenger side I think) and bought some 300zx twin turbo exhaust manifolds off eBay VG30DETT engine. The vq can have exhaust studs in multiple configurations and the VG manifolds looked like they might just need them swapped around. Well the middle port and studs match up perfectly. . . The front port only has one matching stud point and I am not sure if there is enough metal to grind away on the manifold to make the other stud point work. Also there is a water port (I think) on the vq head that would need the flange area reduced but it’s close to the threaded bolt hole. The rear port is slightly forward of the matching one on the block but could be fixed with the dremel except the part you would need to dremel is the area you would need to make the stud hole larger to have the rear most stud line up. :-/ i will post pictures later. not sure if I would like to use a manifold adapter plate and how effective they are?

I remember seeing a project where they used kinetic energy regeneration in the form of a slight gradient with some rail tracks and huge weights which are pulled up the hill when the energy is in abundance or cheap then when the energy is needed again it is allowed to roll back down the hill to create electricity similar to F1 braking. No doubt some idiot would get run over when out hiking.

2050 fusion = problems solved.

Fact= a few reactors have been offline for a long time due to outages so the power generation is well below their normal target. car production industry is buggered recently = lower energy use. Just because figures show something doesn’t mean it shows the big long term picture.

2023 and then every 5-10years later another nuclear power station will stop producing electricity = current operating plans. Heavy industry is in major decline over the past few years I.e steel industry, so yes there probably has been a decline in usage but there will be a turning point. Sometimes working in the industry’s actually has more current information than google. But having an opinion isn’t wrong either. i hope you have done your calculations correct and bought the panels at the time the government actually gave good returns otherwise unless it’s your forever home it might be the next owner who benefits from it.

Until it’s a breeze free day or too windy and the turbines can’t cope, unless the government starts building huge battery stores or @*!# tones more hydro power stations we haven’t got a chance. Most of Britain’s power is coming from ageing nuclear plants which aren’t being replaced quick enough to provide the base load needed for countries to run. And at the same time they want us all to use electric cars and put even more demands on a struggling ageing national grid. Not enough being done fast enough.

Hello, sounds like an interesting car history, hope you enjoy the Z!

Ended up buying a set of 300zx manifolds to see how they fit up against the VQ35 for future fun and if I get bored with SR20DET power. Going to splash some more cash on a GTX2867 gen2 .63A/R soon as two of them should fix on the 300zx manifolds and the SR20 with more than enough power to kill me.

Don’t tend to read the WhatsApp, too much to to through between checking. Never knew the R33 could share body panels with the s14! Or this must have had a lot of custom work to the chassis. Looks neat.