evilscorp

Some hard to buy small brand American goodness supplied by Torqen, Thanks guys! Sadly I could not picture the free chocolate as it's in my tummy already. =) The parts are 200sx to 350z diff mounting bushes if anyone cares lol.

I would go with the INGs style as it looks like it fits a 350z, every other one WILL need the bases modified to fit the curve of the 350z tailgate. I think mine is a megan racing one, I wasn't up for bending the legs to the curve of the car so I ghetto cut up a chopping board to mount it to the tailgate so I wouldn't get vibrations or noise while still being strong and functional (probably, depends on the height you set it from the roof and the distance). Might have some pics on my build thread if I can find them.

steering rack and subframe removed along with some radiator brackets and other stuff. main chassis rails are in good condition on the inside, not so good on the outside, have yet to look underneath =/ Cleaned them up and some of the suspension turrets then coated with zinc primer to stop them rusting while I cut out the death and weld in fresh metal. Quite boring but these pictures help understand where stuff goes so bare with me.

As above it’s only on sales. As for the power needed to run electric cars. . . . Been waiting for a long time for the first new nuclear power plant to be built and the old ones will start being decommissioned in the next 10 years = no base load = power shortages = useless cars.

Hello :-)

So after my fuel starvation issue I thought I better get round to fitting my gauge and pillar pod I've had for years. Left the car sitting for days so not much fuel came out. The pillar pods didn't want to accept my gauge so needed a bit of sanding... Not hooked up my oil sandwich adapter yet so its just an engine temp sensor for now lol. Stupidly I hooked the 12v acc cable up to the rear fog light..... so the gauge only works when the lighting circuit is powered on lol.. need to find an easily accessible 12V accessories cable somewhere in the drivers footwell. Took her for a spin and the gauge works and so does she, max fuel pressure was 55 and lowest 38, just need to read the instructions to change some of the neat functions on the gauge and change the colour. Top Pod will probably be filled with a clock for now as I need another lambda 02 sensor for the other bank of the engine and this car is not on the top of the pile for working on.

Turbo shaft has 1-2mm of play so should be fine for a few more miles, Oil return line will need changed, if I cant clean the pipe up it will be swapped for some braided hose. Sadly the original exhaust stud is too long to fit the 3" apex turbo elbow so it will need shortened and then the elbow might need some bashing or grinding to fit the 350z gearbox, since its a lot larger. Removed the last few items from the wheel wells before the cutting and welding work begins. To remove the steering and front subframe I think I just have to undo a clamp beside the red paint pen mark (not sure), then four big bolts under the subframe. Then I should be able to remove the lot for a clean and new steering rack bushes and maybe some offset spacers and other bits =)

Hello :-)

I think I tried contacting them previously and got a decent response, sadly neither myself or them contacted each other and my engine build went on the back burner. ** Not sure if we will be able to carry out the bottom end balance in house at a reasonable cost . V-configured engines require either different types of machines or very intricate balancing techniques. If we are to do this type of dynamic balance in-house we would need to design, manufacture & fit special counter weights to your big-end journals. In order for us to do this we would need to know the correct balance factor specific to your crankshaft, which unfortunately is not information OEM's generally give out. Alternatively if you send your old OEM con-rod & piston assembly inc. bearings & rings, along with your new rods & pistons, it may be possible to calculate the balance factor but it's a pretty tricky job and will involve a lot of work. If we manage to calculate the balance factor we would have to manufacturing a set of counterweights to prove our sums are correct and then make up another set of counterweights to simulate the difference in weight of your replacement piston & con rods assemblies. As you can imagine it's extremely difficult to even hazard a guess at what this might cost. However, I have a couple of contacts who might be able to help with this at a reasonably attractive price, so don't despair, I'm just waiting to hear back from them... ** But that was 2014 so things have probably moved on and Agra might be able to do it easier now.

I think they substitute the rods,pistons,rings with weights they bolt onto the crank so they can spin the crank,flywheel,crank pulley,clutch and see where the imbalance is with computers. It’s still not ideal IMO as it doesn’t take into account the weight of each piston at different stroke lengths which will change the forces acting on the crankshaft. Most places I had talked to in Scotland can’t do it either :-(

Engine out. Ended up using a mix of sling and chains on bolts. Plan to tidy this up and remove some unused pipes and weld some holes shut in the firewall. So my first mistake of quite an easy job (surprisingly) was not to undo the bottom two gearbox bolts. Back up again and jack under the box as doing this myself was a bit scary as this sh#' is heavy. Then I realized its not like roadkill american V8's the dam torque converter still has lots of oil in it and is bolted to the flywheel, which need to be accessed through an inspection hatch on the bottom of the block (hopefully). Getting the box off took a lot of wriggling. But now I can swap to the Apex exhaust 3" elbow easier and a few other bits and bobs (remove AC pump,) Glad I have the hoist as it was a pain to drain the fuel tank but used a sling to tilt it and drain from the filler pipe. (nearly empty so the fuel pump will be swapped soon.)

Can you make your thread titles more self explanatory please. I seem to frequently stumble upon major build threads of yours by accident which means I have probably missed 847 crazy car builds of yours which have been going on and finished before I can even do 1.

First time i've used the car since the issue, I had my dad rev the car while I looked at the fuel pressure gauge on the regulator and it seemed fine, raised slightly when rev'd as expected with a rising rate regulator. I also remembered I have a fuel pressure/oil temp gauge sitting in the loft and one of the two pillar pod gauge holders. Sadly the sensor is 1/8 bsp and the regulator hole (I think, stated on aeromotive website) is 1/8 npt. So I have ordered an brass adapter, but I swear the gauge that's on the regulator needed ptfe tape as it was tapered. Anyway should be able to monitor things soon and back to driving it once in a blue moon.

Two 14mm nuts are all that seem to hold the engine to the mounts so they are off, now I just need to find a good place to bolt my engine leveler... nothing on the front looks good, only stuff on the side Still need to undo the gearbox mount but waiting until I know where to lift from/ slings arrive.

So the fuel tank in these is kinda big, just a couple more things to check then the engine and trans is coming out.Straps are dead.Need to wire wheel this all to see if its going to need patches welded here also.old brake and fuel lines are going to be replaced with braided and -6AN hose.Hopefully I can weld a new bracket to this filler neck.last time anything auto will be near the car.

Have you tried a fluid change and some molyslip added at the same time? It worked on mine, well I actually liked the racecar gear whine but it went after the fluid change =( many years ago.

Kinda became sidetracked today as I was fed up struggling to find the correct heater controls in the chrysler 300c daily so ended up soldering in some new LED's and ate up most of my morning and I have work this afternoon =( So back to the koukicuda, Took the heat shield off the tank. . . . ok the first clip disintegrated and I ended up just pulling the rest off violently. The plastic fuel filler neck guard didn't help the corrosion resistance much. The moment I touched it the thing started to fall apart and would have been leaking fuel soon I imagine. Also found more rust so poked a hole. New filler neck needed as the bracket on the chassis is dead and so is the metal neck, the plastic part looks ok but these tanks are known to leak so I may have to coat it in something (some people use truck bed liner?) These fuel lines have been disconnected but I reconnected them as there is still a bit of fuel in the tank and I don't want to leave the garage with an open source of fuel, hopefully tomorrow for dropping..... removing the old tank.

So 350z wheel bearing bolts are 5mm wider spaced apart that s14 items so they won't be getting used =( guess they are now spare for the Z. But new s14 items aren't expensive so I will just have to order some and push out the 5 lug wheel axle from the old ones. This makes the 350z rear handbrake conversion more difficult as the plate holes wont line up..... Think I will leave this for a very distant future project and stick the old system back on for now. Now that Ive finished messing about with dismantling things I don't need I will hopefully drop the fuel tank tomorrow when I get up and set about ordering new braided fuel lines.

Only had a quarter Left in a JDM smaller tank. I had no lights appear on the dash but I will plug in my reader.

Thanks guys, might try opening the bonnet and have someone Rev the car so I can check the fuel pressure is staying stable, don’t think I could put a multimeter on the fuel pump. Not going to drive it until I find something wrong. :-(

Just back from a quick drive to domino's (new to the area and too far that they won't deliver). On the way there I was driving quite quickly and 1 mile before I stopped to pick up my pizza I did a fast corner around a round about (wide sticky MPSS with reasonable areo so the car corners well!) then slowed down to join traffic. After picking up the pizza the car started ok but seemed a bit juddery, after pulling out to return home the car started to loose power dramatically, I thought I was going to conk out at the side of the road, the A/F was reading off scale lean (not driving fast since leaving domino's) then after 20-30 seconds the car was fine again A/F=14.5, I only have one bank A/F gauge (need to get another) but I am now worried the car has a big issue. I will do a compression test and check my spark plugs (and fix a boost leak I am sure I have) but is it probably likely to have been fuel starvation? I've never experienced it before so I can't determine what it would be like. Thanks. Fuel setup is 600cc detchwerks injectors, walbro 255pump, fuel return system. (if it matters)

So this is going in this Well the important bits are. Diff,driveshafts,wheel bearings and maybe the handbrake setup as the 200sx uses a cable on caliper design. (no internal drums) Fortunately the 350z subframe looks like its from a newer car or hasn't seen much salt as all the bolts are good and should save me a bit of cash if I can use them on the 200sx subframe. The shocks look in half decent nick if anyone wants them? (one is minus the welded nut, but you can just fit a nut to the normal bolt anyway like most aftermarket shocks.) I may keep some of the arms as spares but if anyone needs them let me know.

I knew my bodykit was rare but I have just heard Stardast have basically folded and their main distributor has cut ties with them. I was always worried about getting another set if someone hit my car but now I would be truly screwed. Been searching YouTube for videos in making moulds for fenders but none of them show if they harm the original item. Anyone had any dealings with making moulds and what to use to protect the original item under the copy/mould? i don’t want to take them to knight racer or gramms as they would flood the market with the copy’s.

I have just watched a pod cast from the guys that run driftland and from the sounds of it most places are trying to discurage people with bangers learning to drift on their tracks. They prefer people to have half decent cars that they look after to avoid attracting yobs who smash into other people without a care. The only problem is as you say people have to start somewhere and no point spending a fortune if you end up disliking it. You might want to try a stock car track? If not an old runway, you might find some places are known for certain things but put on drift days too (crail being one up in scotland).

Going to drop the 350z diff at some point and check measurements to see if the angles/sizes are correct.