evilscorp

Yeah I am thinking the same, just checked the voltages across the battery and across the engine grounds and battery positive and they are all the same when off and when running.

No sadly never got one as the plan was/still is to run haltech platinum when I can be bothered to fit it/build my spare engine.

So my car randomly started feeling rough like 5 cylinders one morning, I drove it out the driveway and back in, and was shown check engine/slip/VDC off. I put this down to old spark plugs so changed them, car started fine, left it for a few hours while I fixed my bonnet hinges and then went to start.... Nope problem still there running rough. I've done a compression test of all cylinders and getting 200-210 on all cylinders. Tested the resistance of the coilpacks (3 pins holding a volt meter between two and changing to different pins) all readings either infinity or reading something above 0 (i believe if any show 0 or close then its a dead coil?) None of the coils have bulges. I cleaned up the 4 obvious grounds on the front of the engine bay. Not sure what else I should be looking for?

It would be fine on the driveshaft splines as I used a lithium grease on mine to solve the click, however it wouldn't be that great inside the actual rubber boot where the joint is, I would use something heavier.

GLWTS, nice way to sell a car with all the details, hopefully reducing the risk of time wasters. £7500 will tempt a few I imagine.

Some part of me has just thought I have to soak the lower plenum(intake runner) gasket in oil? Is that why there was oil left there when I removed it? Not sure but its popped into my head that I had done that before??? Should I??

So she has dropped down to 5 cylinders, hopefully just needs new spark plugs, since she is off the road I figured I might as well install the cosworth plenum. Lucky I had this left over from the motordyne plenum spacer as it was needed to connect the Throttle body heater pipes together that won't be used. Too many extra ports on the cosworth plenum, sadly not all the brass bungs I bought fitted so ended up going getto until I can get the right one. Installed but I could only see the kinetics cork gaskets for the throttle body @ torqen and not sure if it will cope with boost =( Used OEM nissan for the bottom intake runner gasket. Sadly I am going to have to wait until mid week for the spark plugs, but there is a lot more room to remove the old ones with this new plenum which is handy. The spark plugs in at the moment are old platinum so I might be able to give them a clean up with some sand paper to get me by. Only a tiny bit of oil in tube 6 which I thought would have tones and be the problem. So I won't be changing the seals yet (kit has been in the loft for years like everything else).

Car has decided to become a V5, so if it's hopefully new spark plugs I will probably make it along but I suspect the passenger cam cover is leaking oil and requires fixing (have the kit) but I also might aswell fit the cosworth plenum and so on.....

No needs to be from a 350z or maybe a g35. Look at the front of your engine the heads look different on the newer motors. Sorry to hear you bought a dud. Best of luck.

So I stupidly bought new bearings that don't have hubs for the 200sx and have removed one old one (bearing was fine, just wasting money, wont do the otherside as its a PIA). But the race is still stuck to the hub, ideally I would like to save it but it's looking unlikely, anyone got any tips? I have one of those bearing clamps but its cheap chineseium and isn't large enough to fully slide under without bending up the edges of the race. There is a slight gap that i tried to chisel but it's not for budging.

I thought most of the roads would be really twisted so bring the average speed right down? Obviously 60mph when the conditions allow lol.

Reading this thread has made me persuade the missus to do the trip next weekend, probably going to stay at John O as there are a few nice things to see up that coast from inverness. Whats the average speed along the top? 35mph? Just wondering how long each journey might take? AA route planner accurate with times? Hope you all have a good trip sadly it's my soon to be brother inlaws stagdo the weekend you are going as it would be nice to convoy with people I imagine. Just need to cross my fingers the Z passes its MOT tomorrow.

Just blank it off, not cold enough in this country to worry about.

Engine bay finished welding.

It's in here somewhere last page. (I am at work so can't see photo's due to server settings). https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/118415-koukicuda-s14a-350z-handmedowns/?page=4

Better to buy new only a few quid. To remove the bush if you dont have a puller the method I found best was to pack the hole with grease and use a die or a rod that fits perfectly inside the bush with very little gap and tap it in. the grease will push out the bush. I have some pictures on my 200sx thread I will link.

So nothing fits lol.This was attempt no1 at fitting with japspeed engine mounts and 3"apexi? exhaust elbow.Still sits 2" further back than oem shifter hole.oem gearbox cross member is 2" out.this bolt location on the gearbox hits the mounting location.this side engine mount went in.this side didn't bellhousing clearance is fine around the firewall.exhaust elbow needs more grinding but it may ruin the flange sealing surface.I don't want to grind too much off the gearbox and reduce its strength and ability to bolt up to my 350z.this also caught me out lol.

So I found out the hard way after fitting it all together the pilot bush in the s15 flywheel needs moved to the crank shaft like s14s, as it wont go far enough over the input shaft.This wont work lol.but this will.and all together.

Should have been welding more patches but instead wasting my time cleaning the front of the engine and removing the old belts (each accessory has its own tensioner bracket system.) The crank pulley is very rusty so I might play it safe and get a new oem or superdamper depending on costs as the plan was originally fit the VQ35 as soon as possible but things change.

Ok that wasn't actually very hard. Cleaned things up quickly with some brake cleaner but need to buy some more. Fork and bearing carrier look ok and so does the pivot ball but I will clean them up better tomorrow and assess if I need new bits. I know people sell longer pivots so if I have any issues with engagement I should be able to fix them.

So protuner don't give you a manual, so had to figure this out myself. Firstly the oem gasket is binned as I expect it would cause issues with the input shaft not inserting fully into the flywheel pilot bushing. Then the starter motor needed the threaded holes bored out with a 10mm+ drill as the protuner plate has welded bolts so you can remove the starter motor without taking the engine and gearbox apart (handy?) Then I cleaned up the back of the block with a wire wheel as it was a bit rusty and probably let water in a bit. Most of the bolts are at the top of the gearbox and engine so wont be easy to split when its in the car. Also used my 350z alignment tool which was handy, still need to torque everything and use locktight this is just trial fitting still for clearance issues. Not sure why someone bothered to paint pen the central part of the clutch as it spins so nothing to do with balancing lol. Just hope thats what the marks are for. This didn't work, too heavy to lift myself and unstable engine and the gearbox was at an angle so tried to adjust it...... So.... yeah.... there is still oil in it lol. Not sure how it didn't leak when I picked it up from Paul (or did he deliver lol) but it stated pissing out the output shaft... Need to drain it then find a friend or move stuff about so I can have the engine attached to the hoist so it wont fall over if I get aggressive. Took the old slave cylinder off (need a new one). Then poked the rubber dust boot in but its still in the way so I need to research how to remove the clips from the thrust bearing and pivot. As there is no inspection hatch I need some way to look inside and check what the airgap is like between the bearing and the pressure plate on the clutch... which I also need to find torque values for its bolts. Not sure if I can use a 350z thrust bearing or if I have to switch to an sr20det one or use a spacer of some kind.... the testing continues.

350z coils going on the sr20det, just needed to switch around two pins on each connector, now I need to remove the standalone igniter, might save the hassle and buy the ebay wired plugs rather than solder 5wires. Also need to find out which 350z coil doesnt work as my spare engine came with 7??? and the hold down bolts need a new bracket. So this was ment to be a 200sx rear bumper..... like this. bit of a faf but thats cheapo ebay for you. New s15 6speed flywheel bolts compared with the autotrans ones. The clutch came with some but dont want to loose my legs so no reusey! More cut and welding. auto pilot bearing was a pia. less viscous grease helps. waiting on a new pilot bush for the flywheel before I install it.

18mins to tune... wow... don't think I've ever been in and out that quick. DE's must suck as when mine was N/A I was lucky to get just above 290BHP, surprised HR's make that in WHP.

Forgot how much I hate 350z diffs. So much chisel and sawzaw but with accurate blows and cuts so you don't nic the housing. Then I wanted to give the 350z driveshafts a sproose up so they last a long time. Anti rust. anti rust primer. Matte paint and some dashboard wipes to freshen up the rubber. Too many belts x3. Quite a hefty bracket and AC pump, one less belt to change also I have managed to keep all the lines intact so if global warming gets worse and scotland ever needs AC its there to go on lol.

Not sure if its just the crapspeed quality or not but the mount holes were very slightly off so I needed to elongate them with the dremel for 2mins. But now I can use the oem gearbox brace, hopefully it will be close to aligning with the oem holes in the tunnel under the car. Also stuck the engine mounts on so I dont loose them. I got halfway through removing the diff bushes, Just need to cut them out now.