evilscorp

Busted up bush removed, now just the hard task of finding out who made it in the first place 🤨 Worst case Zmanalex said he could save the day with his old rear housing or I just buff the worst of the damaged part away (two cylinders only the inner layer is fookkddd, it wont oil the same but its not an everyday car and I still have other teething problems to work out probably.

Gearbox apart, just need to find out if the bearing has a part number as the two ive used are not correct. Also the bearing is more important than I thought and is oil fed from a gutter and has return grooves to spit oil back into the gearbox.

Not used on my Z yet but these make me feel way more safe working underneith my car. Yes I could have made them out of wood but they would have been heavy as hell and take up more space. Not cheap but would recommend. Only issue I had was my trolley jacks were at max height and for some reason (dont think its ride height) I had to do a bit of manual lifting as my first attempt the front right went under ok but the left side was an inch too tall 🤪 These are the 12" version and allow me to actually use a car creeper now rather than cardboard to keep my back off the cold floor.

Do these use the same connector as VQ35DE? As I might upgrade my DE ones as these look to face a better direction with the connector for my SR20DET.

Been so long since I drove it, hopefully the low weight and 4 wheel drive should make for some brisk driving round my country roads, the 350Z just feels a bit big on the smaller roads in my area and 400ish hp going to the rear wheels is a bit sketchy in the winter/wet. Just having hassle trying to get them to honour the 5 year warranty rather than the 3 year + (up to 10 years) the dealer is now about an hour away so not sure if I will service there or have a local mechanic do it. (Gutted I can't just do it myself). (intend to change the gearbox, diffs, transfer case and engine oil after 1K miles anyway to get rid of the wear-in materials that will be present.)

So this finally arrived at the new dealer (18months wait and change of dealer due to Arnold Shark loosing Toyota contract) Just waiting for DVLA to send me a new plate (couldnt resist as it was only £399 for exactly what I wanted) Getting the dealer to PDI aka clean and remove transport films as they can mess up the roof wrap then I will Lanoguard the underside and have a daily driver ready for winter.... Then Jan 2023 I will worrie about how to fit a pram and sh@: inside when our first born arrives.

More likely just moisture thats built up in the exhaust system, run it for a while and see if it goes away. Head gaskets dont fail often on these only if pushing big power.

seal out, and damage doesn't look easy to sort/assess properly without the box being apart. sliming down a puller to fit the gap. removed and bashed off some folded over parts but its just too difficult to see down the sides. Gearbox is probably too big to slide out the car while its up on jack stands and I am not sure how easy it will be to remove the tail housing in situ.

So it turns out ive messed up my gearbox output shaft collar or something, trying to search through the web to see if it can be lived with or the box is coming out for tear down. Basically when I cut and shortened the 350z propshaft I only changed one of the bearings (they are staked and I wasnt sure if my replacement internal circlip mod would work) the diff U joint was a bit notchy but didn't think it would cause many problems... which bit me in the ass. The sr20det motor is nearly solid mouted (japspeed poly mounts-rubbish) and the gearbox still used the oem 200sx bush which is a bit worn, then the diff is solid mounted. This coupled with the bad u joint has caused the tail shaft of the gearbox to wiggle about during tunning. (the strange vibration we felt) Now I couldn't slide the propshaft back into the gearbox (even though I left 1/2" approx for movement) ended up having to drop the diff at an angle to pull the prop off. This is what I found (minus the destroyed black rubber seal- which needs a small puller or me grinding down a tool). The collar thing around the output shaft is damaged and has a crack, bent areas. The actual shaft looks fine and the slip section on the prop has slight markings but nothing that can be felt with a finger. Anyone know the part number or if its able to be cut down? Need to double check but I assume this part spins with the rest of the shaft and acts as a oil sheild for the splines.

Dyno cut short as the carbon propshaft needs balancing, own fault 😑

Not sure why sometimes my links to facebook pics work and others dont?

Wasted too much time making this, but gave me lots of practice screwing up tig welding. not as nice as the tomei ti exhaust at the back... dont worrie I swapped the standard cat for a new one... which now got so warm on testing something started smoking. ordered a ford heat shield to try protect the passenger footwell as they dont make oem ones anymore.

MOT was booked for today.... it didn't make it. Test drive yesterday shows the tune is way off and undrivable, tried a few things but just cant get it happy, still have a few things to check but I can't get my wideband to not read full lean, it was installed correctly but has already killed or had a bad AEM sensor. Going to try get it ready for a transporter to dynatune before MOT next month. Nissan make it nearly impossible to remove the airbag warning light.... and ive run out of time/patience.

Just to update, its a solid cast so can be cut down without issue.

Look on Z1 motorsports, basically have all the internal parts and usually decribes which model they come from (mostly 09/04 + gearboxes have the same bits inside give or take a few things) ** Well they used to, seems its a bit scarce now of parts**

Anyone know if the uk finn'd diff jacking point (the knob) is hollow or solid cast? Looking to cut mine down as its too low to the ground on my 200sx and I cant get my jack under it/potential to catch on speed bumps/debris. I intend to cut it down half the size.

Not updated in a long time but car now starts on its new brain, a few beep boops and the injectors are no longer dumping fuel out the exhaust, which was also not fun to learn to tig weld on. I intend to make a high cell cat or buy a 200cell one off ebay once I get it mot'd tried not to warp the metal by finding the biggest bolt i could.

Welcome along, forums have always been the best way to search for good information.

welcome.

That rust isnt bad, but I would start to get on top of it, wire wheel and then usual underbody treatments. however I would probably take the braces off and get them powdercoated for better protection. As for the subframe its totally normal for a blind man with no care for how much filler rod to have done the rear subframe. They are alu so as long as there are no cracks its fine. You dont have the same problem as old s-chassis with steel subframes cracking the 350z one is beefy enough.

6'' lift is a lot, this would probably require a full adjustable arm kit as well to keep the geometery setup correct. you can probably get about 1-2'' with bc suspension or similar setup but air suspension and top mount plates and other mods would be required to lift it that high, also the angle of your driveshafts will be out and they also might be streched leading to chance of failure. Bigger tyres as mentioned above helps but it comes with its own problems, tyre scrub on wheelarches, reduced steering angle etc... For an injured back I wouldnt take the risk and buy a different car.

https://youtu.be/nW5gaFfEKSo Something i found out the other day, not sure if its correct but mine does play up occasionally... but I don't drive it often, 1:30 in.

How are you measuring speed? GPS signal to gauges? Or do you have a hall sensor hooked up somewhere. Looking good.

Was in magazine back when it came out, don't know if I still have the issue, japanese performance or banzai.