evilscorp

should be 66% lock up? certainly less than before. new bolts are a must. took some time to get the plates lined up so it would crush together, tried in the press but didn't like the lack of control so used two clamps instead.

Kaaz 350z diff setup and dismantle, Always one bolt causing issues (knew it was rounded but didn't think I would have to drill and bash in a torx to get it out,)

So after the thread about whiteline diff bushes I finally decided I better swap them round and sort the lock up on the KAAZ diff to make it more streetable. quite a lot of stuff on the magnetic sump plug but its very fine paste and not big chunks so hopefully its ok. need some exhaust gaskets and other bits so this might take a few days now and wont be rushed as I know the heads for the kaaz hex bolts are rounded and may need drilled out, which I am not looking forward to. bungees probably need to be tighter for the driveshafts but not hanging at too much of an angle. Stupidly doing this with the wheels on the floor and had to roll the car forward to get to the top bolts on the driveshafts. The prop shaft is stuck on so hopefully some strong wd40 will loosen the rust or whatever is holding it on the diff flange, tried a rubber mallet but not budging.

Thanks for the tip, so far I have only looked at garrett turbos; g25-550 I think may be too big for my power goals and I like the look of the gtx2860 .60AR as its small for quick spool and will still give 400hp (safe for a stock block). Thinking about engine managment aswell but not sure if I like Apexi hand commander look which is a bit big and bulky.

Took the diffuser off as it was hitting the exhaust and thought it might wear through the metal, also thought it was rattling but it was the heat shield that just needed ripped off (thought i had done that long ago). Decided to do the bumper tuck and now think I prefer it to the shi#'* gramms diffuser that was so hacked up anyway wasn't doing much except adding weight.

SR20DET getting the exhaust gas recic valve removed (even though its been accidentally blocked from the factory it seems lol). Removing the turbo and exhaust manifold for new gaskets..... and maybe other stuff. Good time to replace the oil feed and drain pipes with braided stuff.

removing the oil squirters and dowel pins from the spare block. Wont be doing the pathfinder mod as I have HR headgaskets.

A bit to wild on the graphics but a nice build. So the car has been away for 18 days at the motorsport / welders shop... and I don't think hes touched it yet due to being so busy and behind on other jobs. (Same guy that done Paul's 350z cage so I know hes worth waiting on). Meanwhile I bought some spare rear brakes.... sadly I got done and the guy never gave me the carriers so no dual caliper setup yet, but they are better than my old ones. Bought a big old press from a old guy who restores them and sells them on ebay, just need to bolt it to my workbench which I decided to use my spare sheet metal on. As for the clutch and gearbox, I split them so I could measure the air gap and fit the new release bearing. old 350z on right new s15 on left. Should have an air gap of 11mm when the fork is fully back. 92mm from gearbox adapter plate to clutch fingers, 103mm from fully disengaged release bearing to bellhousing end. 73mm engaged release bearing to bellhousing end.

Hello, looks like a nice toy you have there.

So the oem 16" wheels no longer fit. The rod for the ball joint on the new driftworks black edition arms foul on the wheel. So I will have to make do with the oem 18" 350z wheels for rolling the car about and winter work. Hopefully the 17" japan racing wantanabe copys fit.

Also need to grease the front suspension bearings so they dont rust and buy more copper slip for the shocks so they dont either..... all things I should have done on the 350Z.

Need to contact nissan for new bolts and nuts as some just wont go back on even after cleaning. Car is nearly ready to go. So the guy doesn't get confused how much he can remove, for the rear tubs and rust removal. Need to wait for new tie rods as the OEM ones are now too short (only a few threads holding the tie rod ends on)?? might have the height set to high or my guess work suspension arm length is wrong (Kept the old arms for 1.5 years then tossed them just before installing the new ones lol).

Still lower than airline pilots or people who live in Aberdeen. Someone mentioned a guy martin documentary was good when he visited Chernobyl and acted like a tit not realising the lasting damage he could be doing to himself because he wasn’t ‘feeling the radiation’ lol. Need to find it, bbc maybe?

Wow, never paid much attention to PWR reactors but that second video. . . Is interesting how they load and unload their reactor. Also shocked I never knew how much a dose you get from CT scans, that’s a crazy amount to get at one time.

Are you going for a bigger blower? I still don't think people have pushed the V3 SCi trim to what its able to do.....

But yeah the program is very good and big budget, the Russian's and America (I think) use a different scale to dose rates than Europe and most of the world so its good when they use a reference like medical x-rays where you can compare. How many episodes are there?

Your local power station might do tours and probably more to see and learn.

Don't have many photo's of the car so took a few quickly the other day when out and about.

Well he did have to stick his name down on a waiting list for months.... (or threw money at the dealer and said hey look at my followers on youtube). The car just seems like its built to last and plenty of tuning shops working on them so should be easy to modify,,,,, no, bad Gary! I need to leave my next car alone as modifying three cars is just plain silly and wasted money. I have a fair few farm tracks near my house so plan to go for mini adventures in the car if/when I get it but need to see how thick the paint is as I expect branches and other things may hit the car on some trails I would like to go. After speaking to the suzuki dealer/kinda friend, he says the whole range is going hybrid soon as dealers are getting raped for emissions, he doesn't expect the car to be on sale for long and as they haven't planned or designed an hybrid version of it yet. (Not a sales tactic as the cars are coming in in tiny numbers, he gets 3 every few months and they are all sold for some time.

Not updated in a while but the car is nearly a rolling shell again, roof lining is out and suspension is going on, still waiting on some new tie rod ends and some lower front control arms. Driftworks quality isn't great had a lot of interference issues with parts, these rods wouldn't fit through the bearing eye's, had to freeze them and only one was able to be pushed through by hand the other needed the press. the hubs also needed a lot grind'd off the inner hole so the wheel bearings could be pushed though. I have also been sticking lots of grease on the rose bush joints so they don't bind up, they are meant to self clean but after sitting in their boxes unopened for months they were difficult to move and expect dirt and rust will affect them quickly if not maintained and greased. Also going to copper slip the hell out the coilovers so they dont rust.

I am about to throw down a deposit for an SZ4 in white -£15,500 for a 4x4 that is so easy to maintain and should get 40mpg on my short commute. Trying to think of reasons not to buy it and go for something else which will be more comfy but I can't see past its looks small 1.5L engine and practicality. 4 usable seats (3 if you have any luggage at all) everything is sturdy and easily cleaned (in-case I jizz on the roof?) Its resale values should be good (can be sold at a profit new). Cheap and will get me to work and skiing when the roads are bad. Anyone have an opinion on them? This guy with steel wheels and blacking out the S badge and probably wrap the roof black.

what mine looks like (excuse the marked pulley as I had an incident where my pipe blew off and made a mess.

You might be able to swap the lower/upper oil pan over but I cannot remember where the engine mount bolt onto. Murano was 4WD and different transmition, horizontal engine and lower output engine (might be down to mapping but I would guess other things too). You will have to look at the engines do the timing covers look the same? Will you need to wap them over too? Is it worth the hassle?

I think ID injectors or one brand is longer as the cosworth plenum mention certain injectors are longer (all aftermarket though). Not great when your trying to use oem stuff.

Thanks for your the tip Alex, turns out there is no way of telling the coil was bad other than unplugging it. First one I tried cylinder no 3 and no change then everyone after made the vibrations worse, swapped in a spare coil pack to number 3 and hey presto it’s running smooth again. There are no bulges and the resistance between pins are same/similar to working coils.