evilscorp

Some of the work I done before the scare, never took photos of the rear strut removal and testing or the bush replacement. Cleaned the top mount surface and primer paint and copper grease on the suspension top. Hidden fuse box for the windscreen washer resistance test- no issue. No need for air con. But if I had only waited a day or two, I could have saved this belt. Car running without supercharger but a stretched belt. (no belt slap like the day before, probably due to being cold and slipping and no supercharger causing drag too). https://www.facebook.com/gary.poyser.5/videos/10162400345215441/ Car running fine! Just no supercharger. https://www.facebook.com/gary.poyser.5/videos/10162400339960441/

If it’s your daily driver I will stop you straight away for points 1&2. Go straight to 3 and buy a faster car. majority of guys that supercharge don’t keep them for long (some in this thread already lol) and the others crave more power and constantly think the car is going to blow up.(myself in that bracket) twin turbo or turbo will be out of budget unless you can fabricate and have ALL the tools to hand, and still be thinking the car is going to blow up. Throw some money to make it handle and stop well then sell up and buy something faster from the factory.

Not going to jump for joy yet but I think it may have been the worst ever sounding belt slap lol. Took the toothed supercharger belt off which was missing a tooth and swapped the big long belt off the crank pulley that runs everything, fortunately have spare and it’s now quiet without the supercharger (need to swap that belt on Tuesday as it’s a pain to do) so fingers crossed it was just a stretched belt, should have known as the tensioner has been maxed for ages and it had been squealing badly on startup for a month.

So sad times for the Z I think... Did a service the other day changine the fluid but used 5W30 oil (not sure if I had been using thicker stuff previously) also tried a different oil filter and went about checking the fuses for my non working windscreen washers, turns out I am getting 12V to the pump wires but no noise from the pump, new one ordered and feeling good. Until I decided to drive 10mins to work and then back again. Pulled into my garage and started to hear a knocking from the front of the car. Popped the bonnet and when I realised it was near the front of the engine beside the vortech supercharger (which is normally noisy) I instantly shut her down and grabbed a beer. Working 12hours today and tomorrow so it wont be until Tuesday when I pull the belt off the supercharger to have a good listen but I already know its probably the bottom end thats started to go. Sad times as I am now car less with my other one still away at the slow as# welder. The only thing I could think might have caused it was me cutting the air con belt as it was looking frayed and couldn't be bothered replacing as the air con pipe has been burst for years. Maybe the change in force direction on the undamped crank pulley has given the bearings a new wear point which they weren't happy about. Also my rear BC coilovers are on the way out.. they dont return fast at all when set to stiff and you can hear the fluid when set to soft (they return a lot quicker though). Not sure what to do next, I might just park it up in the garage and deal with it later.

I would like to hear from anyone with long term experiences with meister r suspension, mainly gt1. i know a few of you gave detailed great reviews but how are they holding up after a years abuse? my BC shocks on the rear are starting to be noisy and slow to respond when set to maximum stiffness. Still visually fine and ok when set to soft but I want better road manners and think a change is needed. The car is only a road car so not bothered about track handling more rough B road compliance.

Made the mounts but need more as the thing likes to shake bolts loose lol. The exhaust might need to be re routed as it might get in the way lol. But what a difference it makes, much quieter, now all I need to do is figure out how to set the idle speed. I am undecided if I should make a middle jack shaft to keep the oem sprocket location on the back and use two shorter chains for less issues with tension or if I should just use an extra long one and try welding a plate on the rear driveshaft for the sprocket to be side mounted.

Thanks for the tip rabbitstew, my spring compressors dont fit so I will try that method. Took the old sprocket off so I can gauge how I am going to mount it. It's going to be tricky to mount it central if i weld a plate to the rear drive bar. This is a rough mock up of how i might have it all setup. Not a fan of the exhaust pointing at me but hopefully i can heat and bend the exhaust that I was given to point down the side of the car where the chain drive is so I know which way to exit in case of emergency lol.

Not sure if my spring compressors will fit in the gap otherwise i would use them and just turn by hand. Needs some small c spanner or something.

Anyone with bike experience know if the preload on these springs can be adjusted? Looks like they are at the lowest setting and it seems I am too fat for kids quad bike shocks (when mounted incorrectly). It should only need tightening up a small bit as it nearly takes my weight, otherwise its solid mounted rear suspension. I might need to make guards or somewhere for my feet lol. The drive chain will dictate how high I can have them positioned.

Thought I was gonna be super lucky today but only half came through. The extra long bolts I need for the gearbox were the same size as my spare cosworth plenum bolts but sadly just a bit too long. But the main good news is that it was only needing a new spark plug to get the engine to work again (new carb went on anyway but is a smaller inlet so I might swap the old one back.) I used the spare spark plug from the box of parts I was given with the quad and it runs fine, just need to adjust the idle .

I think it is a motorbike chain, probably 2 or 3x as big as a push bike. Cut the chassis today and decided to change my mind on rear suspension. Going to use the shock (if I can) so I needed to move the tie in point further back so I can have space for a seat. Just need to weld it into place once I am happy. Obviously it will be going on straight just rough mock up.

Made some brackets to hold the 350z coilpacks down in the tubes and allows me to keep the rubber seal so dirt won't get in, unfortunately the white/grey cover has to go. I am not a style queen so nothing was measured or cut well lol. Just need to get some more coils out the attic or buy new fresh ones.

Red will be welded and blue will be a length of pipe welded in place. White will be removed. Never really dealt with chains before so not sure how easy this will be to get a larger section installed, it came apart ok. Might end up using push bike chain and sprockets.

Looks fine, just need to pressure test it somehow.... probably with a running engine lol. Also bought a Apexi power FC and hand commander as it was cheap on a marketplace. Saves having to wire in a board that might not have a great tune, also should let me have a play about with mapping, just might take a while as the resolution isn't great for fuel maps. Next step is to figure out how to wire and run a 350z maf (my old one as my car uses the uprated uprev one) this should be loads cheaper than the usual 300zx maf's which go for £100, and should allow power to rise from 280 to 380ish, not quite sure as I have only just started researching them.

If you have a slide hammer you might want to try pulling the flange with the wheel studs if you need it to be transferred over to the new bearing.

Remove the handbrake completely then try chapping the bearing clockwise and anti-clockwise to free off the rust, its in the hub a good 1/2" and a bugger to get off. I ended up getting a punch and tapping all around the edge to get the thing to budge, if the bearing if fooked anyway it wont matter if you miss and mash up the race.

New front main seal. and new water pump. but best of all... new turbo. Started to make a bung for the EGR. Cut the old pipe off to use the nut then made a plate to weld on top, Need to grind it down to see how well good the welds are and if there are any pin holes. But as normal had too many other jobs to do around the house and helping out my parents.

Waiting on some materials coming but might get the angle grinder out and start cutting if I get time today.

So I watch donut media on youtube which then gets you into other weird places then next minute you end up driving 50miles to buy a broken kids quad and decide your strimmer no longer needs a place in your shed. Kids quad minus an engine as it broke, fortunately I got some parts of it like the gearbox and exhaust and they fit my strimmer... hopefully. The quad had a 40cc engine and the ebay strimmer is 50cc? So no replacement for displacement? lol (no doubt this will increase to a motorbike engine after trials). So if you have youtubed barbie car you might see where this is going and why the frame is getting stripped. The engine will be going here at the front, the brackets that are already there will help for mounting points. The rear is the problem. The drive sprocket is in the middle and the chain will be where my ass is going so I need to shift it to the right. Hopefully I can weld a flange onto the shiny driveshaft and simply unbolt the sprocket and move it over so the chain runs down the side. Next issue is the rear suspension needs to go so the chain stays taught and drifts happen =) Not sure what way I will do this yet and I will have to reinforce the chassis front to back as the old seating location (everything behind the steering column is getting cut off to make way for a kart seat.) The feet rests will be unbolted and I might try to use that steel pipe for adding width to the chassis. I just missed out on a kids two seater pink porsche on ebay that would have been ideal so I will need to wait for something else to come up. (don't want to spend money, needs to be pink and big enough for me and the chassis to fit in, probably 1m long but need to measure.) Love this sh@*t

Sods law, my blackvues came 180* rotated so it's either peel the double sided tape off and probably buy new stuff or tilt my head when viewing lol. Never been able to fit cables through the center console and have too many wires behind the radio so had to find a way..... pole and some tape. pain in the butt getting anything through there but might be handy now I know it can be done. Rear light was removed ages ago as it and the rear screen heater are dead. probably just a fuse but I can't read my JDM fuse lid and it seems there are more than one I need to check..... so can't be arsed.

Watched the first episode and start of the second, a good test of driver skill with high level of entrants and cars look big budget. Hopefully they get some compensation for the damage they cause to them lol.

your reduced compression is definitely going to loose you quite a bit of power. If the injectors or pump were an issue I would expect the graph to fall off a cliff when maxed out or show a different Air fuel ratio but all looks normal. add some 11:1 comp pistons and it should pick up well at the top end. Very good thread though, nice to see the different effects that each engine change brings.

As per usual, I take things off and buy new parts when they really aren't needed. Swapped some pulleys for some shiny new ones, then damaged the crank pulley when removing it, should be fine but might buy a better condition one. Also noticed the water pump wasn't smooth to turn in both directions (probably doesn't need to be as it should only go one direction) but it bothered me so I took it off and ordered a new one since its easy to do out the car, also ordered a new front main seal just to keep the oil in and things fresh. started a wee video log on youtube but its pants and mostly for my own amusement at the moment.

What is people's opinion of this damage on my sr20det crank pulley. The damage was my own fault when trying to remove the thing and not winding out the bolt enough when using the puller and it broke the flange at the three points the puller was attached. The pulley in question is for the alternator and water pump its about 3/4" thick belt width, the only other belt is for the power steering which is in the next grooves on the smaller diameter section. If it was for my 350z I would replace it but I am not so sure how much money I want to spend on this engine when I will probably end up swapping in a VQ35DE in a few/many years time. The thing is very rusty and have washed and cleaned it up, I may spray paint if I reuse it as the rubber still isn't ripped but it is showing wear and marks.

The t28 s14 garrett turbos should fit (well one side so far) Just might need to shave some spots off the compressor housing depending on rotation (should be fine if the outlet is facing down) and the exhaust housing slightly touches the gearbox mounting point, not sure if gaskets on the turbo will space it out enough or if it will need a couple of mm shaved off the block gearbox mounting point(you can see the shiny part it was touching). Unfortunately as i was doing it myself and have removed the head studs i had to hold the turbo+manifold+cylinder head on the block so not ideal for getting measurements or fouling points. Bottom right part was the issue, standard engine mounts wont work either (probably). dirty turbo, I want a new seal but can't find them on their own yet. used a brass wire wheel on the outer area to clean up the oxidation,