evilscorp

Spent the day looking at turbos, didnt plan to upgrade the oem one but my mind keeps imagining what else this car could become. Knowing that I will eventually stick my spare VQ35DE engine in the car I would like to transfer things over and I noticed the new G25 Garrett turbos can come in different rotations but don’t use a 5bolt flange like the SR20 uses however the Garrett GTX2863 would be the ideal size for the SR20 and two would give a good shove to a VQ35, issue is it can’t be bought in both rotations. Since the VQ will have plenty of space in the S14, two turbos would be fun especially if I already have one left over from the SR20. Research shows the 300zx VG30dett manifolds bolt straight to the VQ35 but people don’t use them because of issues with engine mounts? This shouldn’t be an issue with the custom mounts I will need anyway, but has anyone else got info on VG30DETT manifolds?

nearly there with the shifter.The issue when selecting 1/3/5 the linkage hits this point slightly.Just needed trimming on the underside, fortunately its only for housing the spring.I had to shave a lot more off the bottom but forgot to take pictures, I will get some tomorrow.When in neutral or 2,4,6 the linkage is totally clear from the bottom but I will show that tomorrow.

Fuel pump is back in. No metal on metal. Wires soldered, heat shrinked and checked for impedance

Just waiting for some S15 flywheel bolts to arrive before trying out different clutch bearing sleeves for correct air gap with my twin carbon ORC S15 clutch and flywheel but I really don't understand why people would bother machining the gearbox housing when the protuner adapter plate is there?Also looking at gearbox mounting (yet to fit it up to the car, but have created some extra space with calibrated taps from 7lb hammer) it seems the holes on the oem (auto trans) mount align with the 350z gearbox bolt holes. a couple of hockey pucks and two longer bolts should work IMO.Just remove the counter weight on the 350z box.It will have worse NVH due to less side to side rotation but a hell of a lot cheaper and easier than some of the kits out there. Just had a play with the oem shifter bracket and for me on a budget... I might just save the £250ish for a billet shifter and put the money elsewhere.So after measuring how much metal rod is between the two U joints (10.5cm) and doing what other people do by cutting out the rod and welding the two U joints together I feel this shouldn't need too much cutting of the trans tunnel hole for the gear stick to come up to a normal'ish location for the gear knob.So with two holes drilled inline with the original ones, I then cut off the excess.still a bit interfering so more cutting.The U bracket under the shifter should now be in a good place for welding.Sadly one of the locating dowels got stuck and I need to remove it before the next stage at which I will use some sheet metal to create two legs back down to the oem bottom mounting holes to reduce any movement. Should have enough space to drill a small hole on the bottom Alu section for these to bolt to.

Working and mine is off the road until Spring. Have fun.

Today I thought I would pull the fuel pump out and see if my aeromotive 340 stealth pump (was supposed to go in the 350z.... but twin pump ftw in the future.) would fit. The pump is a lot smaller than the OEM one but lucky me, it came with a foam jacket so should fit. The old pump is hidden deep down inside the tank on a plastic bracket so not a fun job if you have fuel in your tank.(which I don't) Now the issue is the OEM pump has the rubber locating grommet at the bottom which wont fit on the aeromotive item. The fuel filter is also a lot longer so I have blown some air through the old one and gave it a wipe so I can reuse it. (seems most youtubers do this). I could getto the pump like this guy. But the thought of metal clips rubbing on the metal bracket is a No No to me, so I have emailed aeromotive to see if they make or sell a plastic/rubber locating thing for the bottom of their pump. If not I may need to buy a walbro as they do come with this part. Started researching fuel filters and lines so I will probably order an inline 100pa metal type filter with 8AN braided lines as this will also suit the 350z's future fuel plans and future proof both projects.

You don’t want that getting sucked up the oil pickup lol. Good luck with whatever your up to!

Yeah, I should have some spare somewhere, If you cant find it let me know and I will send two(they come in halves)? down in a card? should be safe enough transport if you cover the costs.

Christmas from the missus... and to myself Not sure my co-pilot likes my driving.

That explains how you get so much work done compared to most people, you have super human speed!

lol not that bright but I do like British racing green, but in all honesty I like the oem colour, I think I bought a tin of it some where but if its totally out I will probably send it to a professional just like I need to do with the 350z lol,

Busy time of year so only getting a half hour here and there to work on the car. Subframe bushes.... trying a different method of attack than burning which sucked on the 350z. Fortunately rust doesn't hold rubber well and this is a lot older and the oem bushes aren't great. Hopefully the metal sleeve can be punched out with a chisel after some initial cuts are made.

It takes lots of hours to have nothing much to show. But only seconds to buy sh#t, I don't need right now.... The seam sealer and gun I was using wasn't fun, took a lot of effort to squeeze the stuff out, not a neat job but it wont be seen and its not a show car. Once it dries overnight I will stick another layer of primer over it.

Flywheel lock turned up, but it's not quite right for this engine but mehhh, done the job I was going to fit the orc carbon clutch and flywheel but I figured I better wait for some new bolts? Got back to the wheel tub... takes ages to do one panel =(. Got as far as cutting the curve to a rough shape, still needs some fine tuning before I tack it up, Probably going to stitch weld the inner and outer plate above then seam sealer to stop any crap getting in between the two panels.

Not nice to look at but fortunately I won't have to lol. Hopefully some seam sealer then paint then wax oil should protect it from rusting again.

Bought some parts and did a tiny bit of work. removed the torque converter then got stuck with the flywheel bolts as I need to make a flywheel stopper. Its far away so you can't see my poor welds. I don't have a fancy metal bender and my metal work skill's are lacking, but I get there. I know it doesn't line up but its getting tubed so F@* it. Needed the template to line the spot welds up with the brackets. And right at this point I ran out of zinc weld through primer and the missus was on her way home so play ended until tomorrow. Can't afford watanabe's and there were only 3 rota rkr's left anywhere in the size I wanted go I bought these... could have bought these many many times over compared with the vossen works on the Z All new hubs, been waiting for the driftworks black friday sale for a long time

Ideal for wheel tubs! Nice.

Started making replacement panel for my tubs to begin then.... I didn't want to do a half ass job so thought I better see whats inside the frame rail. Lots of spot welds hold this bit in place. Huuummmm... Need to treat this stuff and hopefully I can save the U section with just grinding, the brackets inside look ok. Need to remove the rest tomorrow and start grinding and copying where to put the spot welds.

No, I have made my purchase and will not be looking at your site unless driftworks lets me down and doesn't have a sale on their geomaster hubs at which point I may take my frustration out somewhere else.

i SWEAR YOU READ PEOPLES MINDS. Just thought I would browse through the list thinking to myself there will be nothing I need and one nugget pops out that no one else could possibly want but me. You will have my order in the morning grudgingly

having to waste more time on the chrysler as I realized the dust boots need to be pressed into the brake caliper so now I need to make a tool to do this (one less cheap hole saw no doubt.) meanwhile I got some parts back from the powder coaters... someones favourite colour on the forum, probably end up covering them in waxoil as well for extra protection.but they seem hole free, hopefully the rust should remain dormant under it.

I would suggest asking the bodyshop you will be working with what they would prefer. IMO they would want to use fresh steel and fabricate their own panels, the oem is two skins joined with sealent and isn't great, even more so trying to weld with it as it will catch fire/ruin the weld.

The CHRYSLER 300C is just getting new front brakes and a refresh of the calipers then selling when the NISSAN 200sx rust bucket is rebuilt and becomes my daily =p

Some upside down welding... still needing more practice but I have plenty to learn on Sadly my daily driver 300C decided to seize both front brakes on a trip to Manchester so having to try rebuilding the calipers. Think my iphone camera is on the way out =( None of the videos I seen online had this problem. Both pistons came out fine with the compressed air but neither boot wanted to simply be pulled out! I think they must have melted onto the caliper as nothing could get them off and they just ripped with pliers. Ended up having to scrape and burn them out, hopefully they work as new calipers are nearly £300 for a car I don't love and want rid of (once the koukicuda is ready). As clean as I could get, the inner seal crevice is rubber free and they fortunately came out fine.