GT4 Zed

Curb weight for the 350z depends on the variants/trim and ranges from 1446-1634kg If I remember correctly The US had 4 variants/trims: Base Enthusiast Touring Track While uk/Europe had Base or GT The JDM had similar variants/trim to the US. The GT/touring weighed the heaviest at 1634kg. My stripped GT4 at 1380kg with under 1/4tank fuel seemed not bad LOL. 900kg will be fun and it's going to fly TrigðŸ‘ðŸ‘ðŸ‘

Good job again budðŸ‘. I just to out the door card on mine and left everything else as when I disconnected the electrics with the window up it doesn't seal well and let's in wind noise. Alternatively when it's all the way up it seems to catch on the a pillar trim at the top but get a perfect seal. How did you go about it? I'm still looking for a craftsquare mirror but they are like looking for a unicorn. I think I'll end up using a universal race mirror and custom make my own base. I really like how you arrive to your solutions. I'll send you the weight/size of the parts you want and also a shipping quote on Saturday.

Why not get one made or modify the OEM bar to get the clearancing you need. At least you still preserve the tow hook.

Just reviving this for all those with GB problems. Why try to get this or that part when you can get someone .......a Specislist do all the donkey work and you get a refurbished GB with warranty for peace of mind. My experience was that there is more damage that you always think and it's not just to replace a synchro or bearing and put it together. You also have to put it right. My box works better that when new and is riffle precise. All the internal parts can be hard from specialist manufacturers as they are not Nissan specific. Some parts were uprated and some were OEM or OEM spec. There are gearbox specialist all over the country so get researching unless you want to use this shop. Turn around will be about 3-4 days drive in and out unless you ship your box.

Got mine rebuilt by a local racing Specialist and it's still golden. Came with 12months warranty. He got everything ordered and they were all there next day through specialist suppliers. http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/99279-gearboxcd009-refurb-feedback/page__fromsearch__1

Of course a good cam will increase power accross the Rev range but it's not going to be like 100whp hike. A very aggressive cam profile may will give you more peak power but it will be a trade off against good road manners and shifting the power band to towards the top end like a race car. Remember a race does not need to have good road manners unlike a road/DD car. The science of cams is complex as many other factor come into play and a selection should be meticulously to address the other aspect of your engine build or use. Eg intake mods, porting, valves/valvetrain and exhaust mods. The big wigs at Nismo for example spend millions to answer the questions for you so if I was going with cams I'd be using their stage 2 or 3 cams or that of a similar company that do R&D eg Cosworth. If money was no onject then get a custom grind to match your engine exactly. Long and short is that to make big NA power is not easy and every thing needs addressing/optimising. Eg stroking, dry sump lubrication, ecu control, intake, heads, bottom end, exhaust etc. That's why FI is preferred. You are basically increasing the intake charge along with furling to make more power on the same engine but your limitations are the engine internals strength and how effiectively you can control how the power is made. If you can get go cams then why not. If later you want to go FI the high compression you got will almost mean that supercharged would be your only route. I still think 330whp NA will be exciting. That's 80whp hike from stock. You get 270-290 from bolt ons and uprev.

Hey Rich, I was wondering what your forum handle was. I'm not Zman that Alex's title. Glad to have helped troubleshoot and redirect the focus of you project. 400bhp will be optimistic on the OEM wet sump engine and std cams. You will however get a very responsive setup and expect around 300- 330whp. Good luck with everything this time. I would only consider Nos as the occasional power boost but only with an aftermarket ECU that can run it properly.

Just saw this🙀! GLWTS Andy and hope you still hang around the forum. Great car and great guy all round. If I wanted a 370z it would be yours or Will's.

This does eff all Robbo. Just uprate your brakes the usual way. Better pads, disc, ss lines and fluids. You will have all the performance you need and if you want more get a BBK. I will be putting my complete K sports BBK up for sale again as I only wanted to sell the fronts. Keep your eye out if interested.

It's easy. Just take seats out to get space and work your way from back to front or vice versa and releasing the trims as you go along. The key it to invest in a good multi trim too from eBay.

I can't recommend the Ringhaus enough. Been using them for years. It's under 5mins from the Ring entrance. Git decent rooms, food and parking. Friendly and clean. Breakfast included. Check their website for availability or call Christine or frank to reserve. Prices range from 50-80euro for single rooms and 95-140 for double depending if there is an event or not. http://www.ringhaus.com/hotel_en/public/

Your car was fooked and had nothing to do with the oil lol!

Seriously dude!

Shell helix 5w30 professional oil. 58% discount from £44 to 19quid for 5L. If it's good enough for a Ferrari its good enough for a zed. I've been using the shell 10w40 for over a year and pleased with it. http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/engineoils/5w30-engine-oil/?521772611&0&cc5_247&utm_source=bm23&utm_medium=email&utm_term=Image+-+Shell+Helix+Ultra+Professional+AF+5W-30+5Ltr&utm_content=58%25+Off+Shell+Engine+Oil+%2B+10%25+Off+All+Wiper+Blades+Today+Only&utm_campaign=February09+-+Deal+of+the+Day+(Oil+%2B+Wiper)&_bta_tid=3.AIdk.Ckikaw.E3Tn.Arfgdg..A3BpzA.b..s.AhM6.n...1cwrQQ

Close thread mods. Car sold quickly and my M3 V8 is gone🙈!

Dang Pete! Your car was lovely and tastefully done. What a shame and horrible end. Good luck in your future endeavors.

It was a tense affair. Not the best game ever. Best defence against best offence. Watched most of the game and enjoyed it. I'm a convert since last year and that's something as I find rugby very boring.

Awesome work Chris and crewðŸ‘ðŸ‘ðŸ‘! I'm not envious at all😳!

3' will work. I've mock this up already. There's more space with the mishimoto fan and rad but it's so close to the crank pulley hence why oval pipes will be better if you don't want to do the tubular frame option. You only need the oval pipes and transitions pipes between the rad and pulleys and the uppipe from going behind the sc into the TB.

Nice one PeteðŸ‘ðŸ‘ðŸ‘. I'm 8ys and counting! Your record will fall though cos I'm in for the long haul!

They have the exactly same vallvinh technology and twin construction like the V2 and 3 except damping is preset. KW are renowned for their R&D and testing on their rig and the nurburgring so it will meet your needs. Don't for a minute think it's equal to a budget coilover.

If I can get my finger out sometime this year I will have a custom full 3' ic pipes all the way from the sc outlet to the TB. Note I'm going with the bigger V7Ysi sc headunit. Don't think it's worth it with the std V2 or V3 with have a flow less CFM. Space will be tight with 3' but a solution is to use oval pipes with 3' sectional area but I've ditched that idea for a complete redesign of the front end with a small tubular frame and hang the rad, ic, oil and PAS coolers off it with ducting to maximize airflow through. The advantage is you can make a removable front clip and I can also shorten the ic pipe runs for quicker response. Also it will be easy to figure out a recirculating pipe from the BPV to the intake to quiet the noise when it's open. I have a full catalogue of pics of borrowed ideas from various guys across the pond.

Just putting this out as a feeler for a mate who wants to buy my M3 V8 and need this sold. I know the car very well as I purchased it for him 1.5years ago from the same M3 Specislist I got my own car. It's the venerable 3.2L straight six in carbon black and black Napa leather. Good points: - original car with only CSL type boot as mods - full service history. Last service was not too long ago last year. -Manual. No issues with GB. -good paintwork with minimal stone chips as it was resprayed prior to initial purchase - had new clutch and flywheel fitted this week. - good interior with minimal wear to leather - strong engine with no leak, rattles etc - good MPS2 tyres all round - lots of meat on pads and disc as done last year. - everything works and got all keys, booklets, tools etc - covered 90k miles as of yesterday = 7.5k miles/year - not a lot of cars out there in this condition. Bad points: None really. - one of the coolant hose was noted during clutch change to be damp by the clip so will be changed. I'll get some pics in the weekend. He wants fair £££ for quick sale. Look on autotrader to see what these are going for. Pm if interested. Please don't ask what I'm chopping the My E92 for👀!

The adjustable traction arms you put up are not tie arms! Is a popular misconception from some of the aftermarket/budget crew out there. It fine tunes the rear suspension by duality in bump steer to improve traction. The OEM arm is non adjustable but once the car is lowered you change the geo characteristics and to get the best you need this especially if you swap to bigger Tyres which accentuates bumpsteer and tram-lining. If you have a true rear coil over setup then you got 2 options to adjust toe. Via the eccentric OEM cam washer/bolts on the spring bucket arm and if you do not have enough adjustment you can get aftermarket Eibach or SPC toe bolts/washers or similar. The second option is to get an adjustable toe arm which replaces the spring bucket arm. This is my preferred option as it saves weight and gives you a precise way to adjust toes via the radius rod. You can also get eccentric lockout bolt/washers to prevent slip on the OEM ones. I still recommend you get the traction arm as you aim to lower the car. Start by putting them at OEM length and adjust the length via the radios rod in small increments equally. On both sides until you dial out bumpsteer.

Always liked these!