GT4 Zed

It would be interesting to compare back to back the solid mounts vs the poly engine mounts. My solid mounts made everything direct same as per your feedback Tim except the NVH is very significant but my whole car has solid bushes everywhere so its acceptable to me but would strongly advice iagainst for those non hard cire guys👀. I still have the stillen damper attached but don't think its confributing to anything now.

Bizz had some for sale cheap👀.

Cut and extend the arches outwards. If you do it for both front and rear it will look awesome. You will need to mod the bumper to keep the edges lined up. Or copy what Docwra did with his zed. Alternatively get a rocket bunny type or other wide body kit

Would like some too. I'm tired of using paint pen.

Ignore me as bumper not OEM.

Nice pics and feedback Tim. I found the R888 liked 28/29psi hot up front and 29/30 rear but as soon as the car cooled down you need a few laps to get all the tyres pressures stabilised again and until then the grip was all over the place. I think using nitrogen will stop this. I cured my underteer with widening the front track and soft on the ARB but its still there when wet but that the 2way diff pushing i suspect. Waiting for the vids👀. Parcel sent. Will get you the tracking.

Those coilies look sexy as hell. I'd almost forgotten to follow this thread up. Whats your impression of them and what speing rates did you settle for? I suspect these have a good range of springs you can use. Please pm overall cist or any tech info you may not want to post up. Cheers

+1 Well done guysðŸ‘

Does that mean you owe me a detail dude? Happy you got it done. I managed to put some swirls on my GTR front bumper while washing off bird poo😖! Just can't believe using a soft toothbrush lightly could leave swirl marks👀

Happy birthday budðŸ‘🎂ðŸ¾ðŸ‘!! Hope you've had a swell time and many more to come.

Hey Neil mate, i'm glad you have openned up here as its the first steps of a long journey and at the end it will be continued celebration of his life and legacy. Gone but never forgotten. RIP dad.

The difference is price👀. http://www.plastics4performance.com/slider-kits.html

Now that you addition up like that it makes kind of sense and tell me how much has gone into every improvement in my zed :scare; However you wouldn't need the Fontana LCA since you would adjust camber with the UCA. I've had looked at the WF stuff way back and looks really impressive!!! Once you fit the mounting point for the ARB you will be golden😎! We need to catch up on the lexan rear glass plan. I'm ordering my windows now but not sure if I should get the clubman sliders or the pro ones.

Wow anders, it's taken you over a year to build s swirl tank mate :lol: Glad you graced us with your presence and update of your journey with the zed 👠Keep it coming..

Sorry the custom arm failed and has given you more things to sort out. Hopefully there is no other serious damage. The WF kit is amazing but a bit of an overkill for a track only car unless you will be drifting too. Wouldn't it have been cost effective to buy the SPL or similar proper front camber arm which wouldl address your lack of camber and caster adjustability?

Will second this +1000. But if on a budget I suspect you will be ok first with OEM/OE spec disc and PF01 or 11 pads, high temp RBF and ss lines and go from there with the zed.

Glad you found the yellow stuff consistent and it maybe the case considering the civic is lighter but I wouldn't rate them as track pads. Maybe a half decent fast road and occasional track pad st best. Secondly I never assume because it was done by x or y it was done correctly. It takes a tiny amount of air to create a mushy pedal on the track. i don't get what you mean by the pads not transferring heat. Brakes work by friction between pad and disc so far as the 2 come together it should it will generate heat and brake. The disc is always getting cooled by rotating and the suction effect of the vanes so heat flows from the pads to the disc and dissipates unless if you have hot gases traping between the disc and pads or the pad is completely glazed from going beyond its temp range and is just like glass with poor pedal feel. This is always a pad problem or going beyond the pads operating range. The temp band means nothing as glazing occurs very rapidly and the pad surface vitrifies since the heat is not spread to the whole system. If it did then glazing will not occur as the heat is radiated away rather than focus on the pad to disc interface. As adviced, troubleshoot methodically. Fluid change. Inspect pads and possibly swap for better, have enough cooling down time the finally Improve you braking technique. I use motul RBF660 and never boiled it.

Would love to have one papa but no power supply ( garage is in a block separate to house ) Boohoo Then just drive the Bl&@dy car :lol: I'm really awestruck every time I see your zed Steve. That colour and kit just dies it for me. The hydrodip stuff is different and complements everything. Now time to get that SC or TT👀

Happy birthday dude🎂ðŸ°ðŸ¾ðŸ¾ðŸº!! You've gone really quiet I hope it's with good reason!! Hope you had a nice dayðŸ‘

All the above advice are good but I think you need to address each issue that can cuase long brake pedal step by step. - pad fade: this is exactly what it means. Your pads are not up to the job or overused past their operating temperature. Get the right pad for the job. - disc fade: the disc become to hot and can't stop you. Typically if poor braking technique, very aggressive pad, poor disc quality, disc at end of its life, or just overuse. Brake cooling helps with this. - fluid fade: yep boiling the fluid from either things above. SS lines and racing fluid helps. I'm also assuming you did not have some air in the system before. This can give a reasonable pedal for road use and on track go long on you and you blame other things for nothing. Off the above the long pedal will come back with cooling but not with boiled fluids which will need full rebleed to get rid of the air. I think you need to invest in a better pad if you are going to be doing more track days, you need to manage you time out there less laps sessions to allow cooling of brakes and engine. I hope you have OEM disc or OE replacement like pagid as some of the replacements are made of poor quality metal. Invest in driving tuition. Majority of brake fade is down to driver technique. Consider cooling ducts and even a BBK when you have addressed the above and now exceed the OEM setup. A BBK is only better than OEM as a bigger heat sink so it resists fade better but it will still fade if you sit on the brakes. Don't also forget good tyres, good alignment and even pressures, weight saving helps with braking so don't look past these.

Interesting project Ash and glad you are shelving selling the zed. Are you going for a track build or show quality car or just a cool daily/fast road car.

If you are aiming for around 400whp you will be fine without a RFS. You just need a walbro 255lph pump installed in a modified OEM fuel bucket bigger injectors and FPR though you could omit this. I've got an OEM fuel bucket I'll be happy to sell which I could do the necessary mods for you before dispatch and can also fit the pump for you for plug and play solution.

SOLD

ðŸ‘ðŸ‘

If you plan just to DD your car and fast road/ occasional track use i'd recommend the quaife. It's got smoother operation/engagement, lifetime warranty, less service requirement and will do the job. If you are planning full track or drift then a 2way clutch type diff like Kaaz, Cusco etc will be better for more aggressive operation. The quaife will work to mind you. I've got a 2 way Cusco for my 3rd year now and know what I'm talking about.