GT4 Zed

My buddy club seat rails will come up for sale again as my car is going in later this week for roll cage and custom fixed seat mounts . They are for side mounted seats and are 350z specific. If you have a generous derrière the make sure you get GT seat which add 30mm on the width or make sure you test the seat you want to buy first.

I've found similar with with one or the other but I want one that is both curved/convex glass and tinted to give wider angle of vision and reduce glare.

That's not entirely true Rich. The OEM plastic shroud is very cumbersome and the OEM fans thicker so though the MM rad is thick it makes up for it with the thin shroud and slimline fans. i can send a pic of my car now with the MM set up to show how much space there is. I'll I know is there is way more space compared to std rad/shroud setup when I've installed vortech superchargers. You have nothing to loose to trial it before starting any extensive mods. Just trying to help. Just looked at a closer of the picture and see what you mean by the intake pipe touching. Why not route in through to the front as it looks like it's bending 90deg inwards towards the engine face. This pipe is just the air intake right.

You should rather invest in safety gear and a roll cage if you plan to have so many offs that you need to own molds I've only needed to repair my bumper once together with a front fender and lower control arms in the last 7yrs of tracking the zed. And this was an incident overtaking a slow idiot who wasn't looking! However I've had to remove gravel and grass lots more through trying to hard or running out of talent :lol:

Yes yes and yes but as I suggested earlier you have to optimise your oil cooling capacity first as this is an issue on FI'ed HR/VHR particularly. So you got a larger Greddy sump but do you have an oil cooler? There is no harm swapping the coolant but if you got the rad why not get the shroud which upgrades your fans sametime. The coolant + water wetter on its own will only knock off a few degrees but will not solve engine oil overheating issues which is what your coolant temp are reflecting.

I meant the GP style race mirrors👀. Is the mirror blue tinted and curved😎

What a coincidence! I'm about to do the same thing and was considering making my own base from thick and plastic and bonding it to the door. This is a good idea if I can get a damage base like this from the breakers. Where did you get your mirror? Is the mirror blue and curved?

Really interesting find there Dan! I was very hopeful with the federals FZ-201 but limited sizes meant I never got to buy a set. I'm sure the R888 or R888r will be better but if they are half price and 60-80% the performance then they will be worth a punt.

Tim, I was in the same position with wheels a year ago. My lovely 19' but heavier than Ray's or getting very expensive set of lightweight forged 18" or 19"s? I really wanted the Volks CE28N but to much when I got other priorities so I went back with OEM Rays. I got 2 set of rears which are 18x8.5J and I have Toyo R888 245/40/18 and 275/40/18 setup. It just about ok and works really well but the weight saving and response is remarkable! The car is so lively now and brakes better.. I needed 20/25mm spacers to get it looking perfect and to clear my BBK. Tyres are also cheaper. I have no regrets and will keep this setup until I can get Volks/Ray's of similar weight or lighter and a tad wider. 18x 8.5 and 9.5" should be perfect.

Don't get what you mean mate but it's easy. You need to do some searching/reading to get it clear in your mind or get someone to help you fitting this. A thermostatic sandwich plate sits between engine and the oil filter. It has 2 ports. 1 controlled by the thermostat with allows oil to go to your cooler or not depending on the oil temp. The filter still works as normal as it recieves oil via the central hollow bolt. Some sandwich plates have a 1/8npt port or 2 where you can put the oil temp sensor. You can also tap a port into the oil pan or sump spacer (AAM spacer comes with port for this) or tee off the pressure side between the oil pressure sender and engine. There is debate about the best place to put the oil temp sensor but I think what matters is the delta. You can even put 2 sensors if you are a stickler. One before and one after your cooler to see its efficiency. My oil temp sensor is teed off the pressure side as I feel that the temp the rotating parts are seeing directly and that where the oil feed for the supercharger or turbo comes from so you know they are cooled. I'll put up some parts link and DIY so explain better. If you are in the midlands then send me a PM and I can help.

The OEM water gauge should be /accurate/reliable and what really matters is the delta as a few degrees off doesn't matter. Take the advice from Ricky and the rest and invest in an oil temp gauge. You should be fine on DD use but I can bet you being turbo'd will see high temps in track. A thermostatic 19 row oil cooler is usually adequate for road and track use.

Hahaha! Brings memories. I got lazy once years ago and did this and still have scars to show for it. My hand got stuck trying to undo the tensioner and it was a battle to get it out!

"Does" ..... The cooling! Bloody auto fill🙀. Koyo is better contruct but MM is adequate. The MM is also a 36mm core. I ran 470whp on my sc zed. As mentioned improve your engine oil cooling if you haven't. I got the rad as security as o do mostly trackdays but I have a 19 row oil cooler and APS replica oil pan. Also used oil pan spacer which works well too.

Paul can you do me a big favour and weight the intake manifold please?? I may move to one if its a decent weight saving Not sure how accurate my scales are but it's coming in at exactly 6kg Thanks a lot mate! Now i just need the OEM kit weight haha.. I take it this replaced the upper and lower plenum but leaves the lower runners? Yup but I doubt the is any weight saving especially if you factor the cost of the kinetix which is SS and heavy. The OEM is cast aluminium and may just shave it.

Get good quality gates or continental belts and replace the AC belt too while you are there. That belt must have been there for a long time, set too tight or a cheap belt in the first place..

+1 there bruv It's fugly like hell. A cross between a Lexus and some previous generation Korean crap! The macan or new RR sport any day.

Hey George you pot title is misleading as the issue is not with the rad. I have the mishimoto rad with fan shroud with my vortech supercharger and actually got more room between the fan shroud and sc bits. The rad is OEM fit as per it uses the OEM mounting points and will match the OEM shroud but of course it's 30% bigger. It's not clear if you also got the mishimoto shroud which is slimmer than the bulky OEM one and shroud solve your issues. The fans are also uprated compared to the OEM. If this was the case and you still lack room then you have to modify things to make it fit if you have cooling issues. A koyo rad is probably better quality but will give you the same issue and uses the OEM shroud. A low temp thermostat will not solve the problem as all it does is to open a bit earlier. You can improve your cololing with using more water and also add a water wetter. Most coolants are a 50:50 mix of antifreeze/antirust and water but it's the that dies the cooling. In our climate you can use less antifreeze. I did not have cooling issues when sc'd but used 75:25 mix of motul inugel coolant and also a bottle of water wetter and my temp never go beyond the half mark on spirited driving or track. Anyway the zed and especially the 370 suffer high engine oil temps when really canned or FI'ed and an oil cooler is a wise investment. Do you have one? This should be a priority as it will help your temp. The primary function of oil is cooling and lubrication. Increasing oil capacity with a sump also improves cooling. Hope this helps.

Come on Alex😈

Coming on nicely PaulðŸ‘! I think you need to apply for a designer job at Nissan! This is so classy mate. You need to finish this off with a black alcantara clad interior with red stitching, CF trims and sport alcantara seats 😎!

Agreed but why not dial that out otherwise with suspension setup. I always see my tyres as fine tuning part of the suspension.

I suspect quick Alex has nabbed these and will be going for R888 or similar. 245/40/18 and 275/40/18 will be perfect. These wheels are strong and light and though will need small spacers for the perfect stance my only concern will be the lack of spare should you bend one.

Please Rob don't misunderstand me. Nothing negative was said. The op had not got concrete response to his query after extensive research and I've I recommended PFC and Pagids which I have used extensively. You mentioned carbotech and RCL which I suspect will be similar to PFC/RCL but you have not used them yourself. In an ideal world one would like to try everything before settling with one but unfortunately real world limitations and costs means relying on the manufacturer claims and subjective reviews or feedback from real end users. I'll take that over hearsay everyday.

So much ink and no result. I have used Performance friction 01 compound and pagid RS15 on my now mainly track zed and perfomance friction 11 compound on my BMW M3 V8 (which is superseding the 01 compound) mainly road use and I trackday and all these I would highly recommend. My new car will be having RS29 as the have slightly better endurance. All these pads are race pads but work well for road use with good cold bite and modulation. Disc wear is acceptable and they do no squeal in my experience. The RS29 are known to squeal. They are slightly more dusty but not more that the DS2500 or yellow stuff which I was once fooled 10yrs ago to purchase for my E46 M3. Rubbish!! PFC or pagid will get my vote anytime. I'm sure the carbotech, RCLs will be similar but one can only give their experience rather than what they heard or were told👀.

Why don't you give a call to Sky and prestige insurance who are sponsors here. I paid 450 odd quid on my zed when supercharged and similar on my M3 V8. As mentioned so many factors influence what you get quoted.

Congratulations Josh on this beaut! You are going to have fun with it. You got the right car and DCT. Manual is fun but the DCT allow you to focus on just driving. Only weak points in real life is the brakes and quiet exhaust. Had I kept mine longer, I would have done the 2 pipe mod which gives the exhaust the sound it deserves for around £200 rather than spending loads on the popular eisenman, Miltek, or akrapovich. I transformed the brakes with just upgrading the front to performance friction 11 compound carbon metallic pads. Just phenomenal! I can interest you in a set of nearly new pad just bedded in. Took it of before the car sold as they cost almost £250. Just getting some pics to put it on M3 cutters forum which you should join. Not as good as this but a must to get resources and mods for the car. Also wish I had a spare OEM steering wheel to swap out my alcantara sports steering wheel! What a bonus for the new owner! The supercharger kits match the car's character and fully bolt on so similar to the kits for the zed but better quality. Don't be tempted to go for more that stage 1 on stock engines though. Be ready to spend on tyres! I killed a set of tears in around 3-4K miles when spring came since I got mine in winter. I recommend the ubiquitous MPSS.