GT4 Zed

Prices reduced and taking reasonable offersðŸ‘

+1000 on this but if you want to swap the driver side valve it is as easy as you described. Try Zmanalex or CMS for better pricing than Nissan. I have a spare new one if you want it ASAP.

@ebsop and exiled slinky: have none of those for sale. Car was stripped to track spec not breaking for parts

Nice👠Can you post up pics, specs features of the kit and your feedback of these? Never heard of them but I know there are loads of specialist UK shops doing things like this😎

Pm preferable as I don't check this thread daily but do check pms😎 @wrayvon: Not got battery cover, seat or wheel arch liner for sale. @ mickeyazure. Got a full cubby and both window switches trims for sale. Prefer to sell them together for those with paint, wrap or hydrodipping projects. There's a first dibs on the trims. Pm your offer. Car is 2005 GT4 @georgeW: got complete ashtray/bin. Pm offer.

Salut Philipe!

WOW!!!! ðŸ‘ðŸ‘ðŸ‘ðŸ‘ðŸ‘

Do you mean it's crunching or refusing to get it? Mine is so smooth in every which way nowðŸ‘

Sorry not checked back this thread. @cs2000: The refurb meaner a complete replacement of any thing that is not fit for purpose so the GB ooerates like new. Pm if you are seriously considering this. @ boulderman: as stated pm if seriously interested. I can't give you details as it's by appointment only. If he chooses to do a few more refurbs you can have all his credentials before the job. There will first be an inspection before w firm quote. You can always pull out. All work comes with 12 months warranty full parts and labour.

Nice work Alex. Living the dream😎

It works and that's how I bled my last clutch change with Z speed Tilton racing MC upgrade. Works great and bleeding take a few minutes! It's also easy for having the z speed MC upgrade with a custom single line between MC and SC. I blocked the SC while insitu by pushing in the piston all the way in and jamming a multiple fat metal washers between it and the clutch fork lever. Any object will work just need to improvise. From here just bleed as normal all the system just bleeds from the MC via the clutch line since the SC is completely emptied of air. Once all the air is out of the system and with pedal down just close the SC bleed nipple and remove washers etc so the SC piston extend to contact with the clutch fork lever. Your pedal will be firm and the operation should be crisp. I will post up my full upgrade and feedback at some point. This method is not "new" and does not work for each car. The OEM way of doing it works but is tedious to get the air out but if you have a power bleed it will be as quick.

First of complete bushes swap are not common place as it's very labour intensive and there are only a handful of cars that have had this done. I probably did the first full urethane swaps and then I've done 2 members cars here full swaps. I probably also have done the 1st full solid bushes swap here and track my car so got lots of experience within bushes and suspension tuning. If you read my comments and also that of Mark @ Abbey on that failure thread it's clear that failure is unusual. So to think Superpro is not a good bush from that failure is premature. I also listed why a bush could fail apart from the bush being duff as a cause. While I accept that there is not much info on search and that a lot here have just done single bush swaps you can either take the opinion of people who have done it or try something new by all means. BTW I get no squeaking even from my solid bushes. I've also not got a bush fail yet.

While it's a great thing to break the mould sometimes is there any reason no to use the well trodden path of Superpro, energy suspension or whiteline and I think Rob recently gave some feedback on nolathane. Frankly urethane in itself is a cheap plastic polymer to make. What seperates the crap from the food is bush design. A lot of the cheap bushes out there just copy the good ones but doesn't take into consideration the specific requirements of the bush and the fact that a simple looking bush is actually 2 or more different durometer(hardness) urethane to impart specific properties to the bush to perform its function, prevent suspension binding and provide longevity. So from a price point they are about the the price of energy suspension but looking at some of their specific bushes I'm not sure it's better than what it already well known. I hope I'm wrong. So by all means try it and give us feedback.

It would make sense to go through all the connections are in and correct and also check the head unit settings. If all this fails you need expert advice from someone like Bob(zed shed crew) I've got all the OEM speakers for sale cheap if you need replacing.

Just copy the img code to post whole pics on the forum. You can the from clicking the link/share button. Black gets my vote alwaysðŸ‘

A new one is £33👀 why don't you get yours rather than hoping the first dibs fall through 😇

Sounds rough! Could be valvetrain related, bottom end bearing related or even just the belt/pulley related. Your belt looks new has the been changed recently? I had a ticking noise that turned out to be the painted section of the Continental belt going over the idler pulleys. A few squirts of WD40 on the back of the belt and it disappears until the oil burns off. The continental belt is noisier than the Gates anyway as the non ribbed backside is hatched/groved and transfer noises from the rotating assembly. The key questions are - does this happen only on idle? - is the car running ok otherwise? - have you had an eye on your oil level all the time? Ultimately you will need to take it for a live inspection with your nearest zed specialist as it just guess what the issue is.

Not a bad idea, Im getting my 07 bulgde bonnet back from paint soon, then i would deff be a nice thing to install! I love it Simon and was just going to add that you need the bulge bonnet then you mentioned it. If I was not a track car I would like my car to look like thisðŸ‘ðŸ‘ðŸ‘

PayPal recieved and posting out today. Sent you pm but you've not read it yet. Nice one Mark👠I'll pm you PayPal details.

Wow!! -8deg of camber!!! That would be something to behold visually. Something is not right. I personally will take everything down for full inspection just to be sure as that arm/bush should affect camber very minimally. In anycase Superpro will replace the bush.

I've used and fitted Superpro, energy suspension and whiteline bushes and done heavy track use and I think it's probably effect rather than cause with that bush failure. I'm sure Superpro will send you a replacement bush but if I were you I would look deeper as you are likely to have camber arm/bush/ball joint issues or toe arm issues (tie rod) on that side which has lead to failure of that inner LCA(translink) bush. Typically when that bush fails it affect caster only as the bushes can only slide front to back. When you accelerate the caster reduces and when you brake it increases. More so you would have been hearing the obvious knocking and the steering to the affected side would have been less responsive as the caster will be less. You would have also noticed slight pulling on moderate to heavy braking due to this difference. It would be very hard to have that failure and not notice it. That were pattern is a camber/toe related cause. So the questions you should answer: -did you get this professionally fitted and within the tolerances? - did you swap the camber arm(UCA) inner bushes with Superpro too? If not check that the UCA inner bush have not failed or the UCA or tie rod outer ball joint on that side. - is your compression arm bush and ball joint ok? - Have you hit anything eg kerbing at speed to explain this? Note I'm not trying to cover for Superpro or say urethane bushes cannot fail but most times it's due to poor/cheap designed bushes, improper fitting, suspension bind of some sort due to mismatched bushes, other component failure and misalignment from keebing/potholes etc just want to make sure there's not an underlying issue that will lead you to this again. Either way good luck with everything. Let me know if I can help in anyway. I've got a complete zed suspension arm/parts for sale with energy suspension bushes.

Looks good robbo., would've nice to see how they hold up and also to brake dust and pressure washing👀

Hey dougie, I see you are forging ahead! I wiould go with a weld-in cage unless you want to be able to restore the car to std someday. However Neil, vlad here and Mark @ abbey have both installed the cusco cages on their cars. I helped Vlad's and it was pretty straight forwards. Fits well but IMHO it would need at least the foot plates welded in to make it serious to deal with a roll.

I would be very concerned by the no oil service required for the Quaife! I research the ATB when looking at diffs and remember they have life long warranty being a helical gear design but I don't think it means you don't need to service the diff with oil me thinks!!! The VLSD is different as the oil is sealed within the diff with the plates (the oil gets thicker with load creating friction between the plates and therefore locking action) and so you can't change it. But that special oil does deteriorate overtime and the VLSD locking gets weaker and weaker with age. FWIW when you service your OEM diff you are just changing the oil bathing the crown/pinion and stub axles gears but not the diff oil. So unless the ATB oil is also sealed and therefore cannot be changed you will still require to service the oil as per OEM but at a longer interval or depending on use. I used to do yearly changes when I had the VLSD because fresh oil always offers better protection and let's be honest 1.4l of diff oil is not that expensive in the grand scheme of things. Just make sure you read the literature correctly.

Anxiety amplifies things you know😇!! Also what was your sequence of mods? This impacts on your where your focus is. My diff whine is less when I change fluids so maybe you ought to change the fluid. I find that 3000-4000k is about right for my clutch type LSD and it likes mineral oil rather than synthetic. The ATB is a gear type diff but make like frequent oil changes too. Not sure which oil is recommended for it but Quaife should have guided you in the instruction manual. I use motul 90PA (75w90)diff oil which is 2L for under £20 and the diff has been golden unlike when I had fully synthetic 75w90 gulf competition or redline oil.