GT4 Zed

I hope I didn't cause any friction here😳. I'm a neutral and just enjoying good football. My team is in the PL and we won nothing this year.😎

Or use the same spark plug socket into the same plug and usually it just picks it up. I had the same thing with the halford one and eventually got tired and bought a profresional one. No need to panic👀

Very flimsy! And is that a wood type screw you are using? With zip tyres What happened to the original brackets?

The way boro are playing looks ominous. Not a fan but I think Norwich had their chance and blew it. Sorry mate, Ipswich will not cut it in the PL and I thought the same of Brentford. If the surprisingly go up they'll be back down next year😜

You can contact any trader here via pm. Yes if you car is 2004+ you don't need the upgrade fork but there is a watershed when early 2004 cars would have had the previous fork. You can check with Nissan or just get it for what it cost and be sure. WRT the ss line you don't need as you got it in the basket. My bad, but go with the insulated one or heat wrap it when you install it.

Torqen is a trader here and deals with CZP directly and other major brands. You will save the massive shipping and duty costs going with them. Looks like you are on track with the order just need: -Nismo/CZP pilot roller bearing. (Better than the brass one) -SS clutch line ( to replace the OEM rubber hose between the OEM hardline and SC) It's an extra with the z speed MC upgrade kit. - and if you car is 2003-2004 get the clutch fork upgrade. See the combo. https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=7023

@bustalyric; have you actually tested the clutch while the car is in the garage. While you may actually have the same issue like Darmoz it just sounds to me like your garage don't know how to bleed the clutch properly(it's a it tricky and can challenge any mechanic who is not trained on the zed) assuming the hydraulics was touched by the garage. Otherwise they have fitted something wrong. Did you change the release bearing too? Look at Darmoz post for my suggestions and feel free to pm me if you need any help.

You mean the most palpable difference😎. Since you can feel the gearshift in your palms but trust me on this if you do the engine, subframe and diff too your driveline tightens up and power is fed to the wheels with minimal loss to unwanted twisting from the engine torque and there is a markedly reduced wheel hop/ bounce on hard launches. You will repeat my words when we sort your final bushes out mate. BTW what's up with the silverstone meets with your supercar friends?

You said you did your clutch and flywheel 5k ago so shouldn't need changing unless you want to upgrade. You can get an OEM MC and SC from Nissan or CMS and I'd expect it will be about or just over £100. Other other hand for a bit more you can have all the upgraded stuff I mentioned and sleep easy. Torqen imports parts almost daily from the states and will get you all you need including a JWT HD clutch and flywheel combo. It's a very good system and that what's I have on the car.

+1000 with you Spa1 Both this method or Terra-clean have a scientific basis behind their product but tbh I don't think the effect is very significant than using high octane fuel and keeping the car runing and tuned efficiently and most of all driving it well often.

Can't believe this joker is still trying it on😖 What a retard!!

It's the master cylinder almost certainly. It's particularly common when you upgrade to a heavier duty clutch than stock. I'd go with the zspeed wildwood master cylinder upgrade and if you are there might as well upgrade to a ss clutch cable and better fluid. It works better and is easier to bleed. However just replacing the MC with the OEM MC and re bleeding the system should do it. If you did not change the slave cylinder or release bearing then i'd recommend you do that as those may fail eventually. I made that mistake years ago and now need a new gearbox or repair my old want as the clutch killed my 6th to 5th baulk ring and 4th to 5th synchro. https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=9261 The guys at Torqen should be able to source this at short notice.

Hey fella! Longtime mate. You would like a drive better and then decide for yourself if ultimate handling is worth sacrificing the comfort of the zed. To me it does and make every time I get in and drive a special event. Just need that full cage done and harness and there will be no pretence what the car has niw become. I may come to Wales tomoz or if you are going then stop off in Worcester for a bit. Pm if you want my number.

Send me a set of 25mm for testing. I've used eibach spacers on my zed from far back as 2009 and it's not failed yet on trackday etc Im going to the ring and can trash the hell out of them to show that these are over engineered and a good thing👠My suggestion will be to get 5-30mm spacers in increments of 5mm. This is by far the popular range as most after market wheels come with <ET 40. Another idea would be to get PCD adaptor spacers made to order to enable the zed to use other wheels with different PCD. Eg 5/114.3 to 5/120(BMW)

Just caught up with this. I think your problem central with the ESP/ABS system as opposed to a peripheral issue with tyres or alignment. I'd do a full inspection of the abs sensors, and the general brake system and get the a system check for codes. I would be surprised your ABS module is fooked. I'll not drive the car any further untiess gingerly to get it tested. I would go to Nissan but any of the usual tuner garages here.

So jealous at all this skills and build in general so far A++++++!

might just make an appearance tomorrow for the drive if I finish early. Dan if you are still going let just make a run for the Evo triangle and do a few good laps and return to the hotel for late afternoon beer and banterðŸ‘

Urethane engine mounts are available as you will hate the solid mounts on a DD. If you are going to benefit the whole drive train fully then consider the diff too and the all the suspension bushesðŸ˜. The subframe bushes eliminate wheel hop on hard launches but it's a pain to do if you are on a budget.

Just say this. There's no problem there Darryl. You can get a 5mm hubcentric spacer if it will make you sleep well but just think about it. The wheel is attached at the lower end of that spindle which expands as the hub and the upper part of that spindle attaches to the front UCA (looks like a boomerang) 1-The UCA only moves upper and down with the spindle so the wheel can never touch it. 2-The LCAs(translink/banana) allow the wheel and there for spindle to move upper and down too and to a degree front to back to allow for bump. So ion effect the wheel and spindle are married and will always describe the same movement arc in a constant ration to each other and can never touch. The expansion is negligible as the wheel is a big heat sink to get her with the spindle itself and the other gobbins linked to them. It will never get hot enough to bridge the gap. I can work out the physic if needed. Off course the caveat to this is if you put a wheel with too much +ve ET in the first place that there is only 1-2mm between or outright interference then that would most likely be an issue. . From my experience you would need a wheel with an ET 40 and above. Looking at the pics you got at least a good cm of clearance. The clearance between by spl UCA ball joint but and tyre is about the same and never touch on road or track.

Like others have mentioned good effort but can't be good long term. Secondly air flow in the engine is not as you think. The front bumper air is high pressure which in theory should forrce the air up into your pipe but because it's not ducting directly into the filter or an airtight box like OEM it does eff all because the vents and design of the engine under tray and the diversion plates around the radiator creates negative pressure which sucks air out of the engine so though some air gets up the pipe little of it gets into the filter and the filter has a combo of swirling hot and cool air. That's why the OEM box intake is placed out of the engine bay and why the OEM nismo v2 bumper comes with the scoop which connect into the airbox intake. The 2006 OEM airbox is best with a high quality filter as has been dyno proven many time. All the short CAI like the pop charger just make a good sound and blow hot air. If you want your design to work then than intake pipe has to come all the way to the front and get a good quality filter for it. You may also want to consider an anti hydro lock over filter for rainy weather. By the time you do this properly you may as well buy the nismo, Injen, AEM etc long CAI for the same money.

+1 on the feedback I have the exact torque solutions one and it reduces the slopinines in the gear stick and makes shifting more precise. There is a slight increase in NVH as expected but nothing unpleasant. I highly recommend it if you want to get the best out of your gearboxðŸ‘. I went one step further and replaced my torque solution mount in winter with a full solid metal bush mount in tying with my solid engine, diff and suspension bushes. Gear changes are now 100% riffle precise, no slop/vagueness and you can actually appreciate the OEM close ratios especially if you got a short shifter like me with a stick extension. But the NVH is very harsh as expected. It does not bother me as the rest of the car is race car harsh. The added benefit of the solid mount is that my engine, gearbox and diff are all stressed members with obvious handling benefit. I'll be putting my almost urethane TS mount for sale up soon.

SOLD😎

Most policies include windscreen cover and you have an excess for it usually around £75. It doesn't count as a claim. Check you policy documents or inquire with your insurers. They will tell you their preferred service. If you call national windscreen or similar directly they can also confirm if you have this cover or not.

West Mids - Worcester