GT4 Zed

I'm with Fake Ben and others thinking in similar lines. The naysayers are just imagining thinks on extreme scales like an F1 car. Remember the little experiment we all did as kids when that was driving and you stick your hand out and by changing the AOA it went up or down. When it when up we where inadvertently creating lift as the hand is shape like a tear drop = wing. Your hand felt lighter and carried by the air if you got it right and dad was going fast enough. While when it veered downward sharply it was primarily due to to drag and some downforce. When the car began to slow so much the I respective if what we did you hand came down or you had to physically keep it up and that was = stall. If the little hand can why wouldn't a wing designed by Nismo. Any properly designed wing will create DF. There will be some drag and depending on where it is positioned, the speed and other elements of the whole aero package can be effective even on a road car. It's all about trade offs.

Personally I'll have a go as you've got nothing to loose and everything to gain. -The owner wants it done -He is paying for the job -He is aware it may go cockeyed -If it comes off you are a hero. I like that sort of thing. Just make sure you get something in print.

I've seen that LCA mod done in the US and it's a good mod. The double shear design is an improvement as they just kept the OEM mounting point. Nice jobðŸ‘

Wouldn't stay like that I sure. Just surface coating like black diamond etc.

-3.5 is not enough front camber? You may have Toyo as a tyre sponsor or running slicks😬! I just reduced mine to -3deg as I didn't like going through a set of front R888 in a couple of k miles! I'm I've also reduced my caster to +9deg from 10 but kept toe out to 0deg 04min. Doesn't seem to have changed the superb turn in and front grip I had before but have to try it on track to see. I'm so gutted I missed you at the RSV breakfast meet and wanted to glean some ideas of you👀.

You need to get your sitting position just right to get rid of this. I always have this with small rental cars. Cycling also helps to keep you knee joint healthy and improve on your musculature which keep things in good alignment.

Sweet ride Mark. It was stunning in the flesh. Loads of work gone into itðŸ‘ðŸ‘! I need to try your air ride at some point.

This is where all these cars are hiding in rich folks garages to accrue value. I hope he is not one of those and drives this beauty as it was designed for.

Is that close up of the stillen's? Shocked! Even my cheaper DC non ceramic coated were better finished. I did bother with the extra cost of than thin ceramic coated ones. I used heat wrap and 2yr on they are still intact. I would go with long tube headers. Cost more but better gains or if you want to stay with the short OEM style headers get the equal length HR/VHR OEM headers which will fit perfect. Use the heat sheild and well built. You need to get decats or cats/HFC for the HR/VHR to get it to fit to your y pipe though.

Told you this on Sunday. 300v is superb stuff but I stopped buying it about 4 years ago and most of the brand fully synthetic ester oils are equally good and cheaper. Gulf, Fuchs,etc 3k is overkill for what use use your car for. 4.5k is good. 6k changes with that oil will still be perfect.

clever clog Alex. Omitted seats as he already got them same as steering and assume he's got all the airbsgs out. Seriously this summer I need to come up to Scotland and find out what else you may have in your man cave but also for some track tuition on on the GTR. While my old scoobie was AWD the R35 is so different and removed from a RWD. It hides it's weight so well and yet sometimes you feel the bulk.

Sorry🙀🙀 Just typed to quickly. Edited correctly as "without" 1000%. Yeah stick to you budget and get the right car for you.

He's got sparco pro sport seats or are should I be sending you a pair of glasses

You cowboy!! Hope you got the AC de gassed first👀! Don't forget the AC rad and all the components behind the dash on passenger side. I took mine off 2 years ago properly even before I stripped fully as an experiment when I was doing headers and I put it back. The hit was unbearable on the track in summer but it should be ok with heli-vents plumbing air from the rear quarter glass or even a roof scoop. The car revved a bit freer and felt a tad eager.

Welcome. A few of us here have fully stripped the zed and still finding ways to get the car lighter. I'm currently at 1380kg but going for a full cage so will gain some more. Ultimately how much weight you can loose depends on your class rules. But in general: - lightweight wheels. Rays are among the lightest/strongest unless you can afford more exotic stuff. - full interior strip including sound deadening and unnecessary items behind dashboard. - replace door, window and bonnet with carbonfibre parts. Dry carbon is better than wet. - replace all glass except windscreen with lexan or plexiglass. - remove or hole-punch and chassis double skin that is not structural to offset cage weight - hole punch the front and rear crash bars - lightweight flywheel, clutch, pulleys and AC delete - Full underbody strip if possible. The tar weighs a lot. - lightweight battery - light weight 2 piece brake disc with aluminum hats - 304 steel/titanium exhaust from header to tail tip with added benefit of performance. - since you are using true rear coilovers swap the rear spring bucket arm for a lighter adjustable toe arm And any major thing I've missed someone will surely point out. While weight loss is important you can improve handling by swapping all the bushes to urethane or solid bushes. Good luck and keep sharing.

Drive down to Worcester to City motors for all your service needs. Karl has worked on my zed for ages and that's servicing and modifications. His pricing/rate is very good. and you can bring your service pack if you want. Give him a call @ 01905 616480 and mention I sent you. I members here do frequent his services.

You flatter me mate but thanks. I'm 50:50 but my pocket has a lot to say about it. You have more finesse or a more cultured taste than I do. I can just about make every car work for me. I almost considered asking you and the lads here for an opinion but I wanted to keep my cards on my chest too🙀 I almost got an RS6 saloon or avant as a stop gap till I got the right GTR and even an RS4 but I knew they will be numb to drive. In exasperation an E46 M3 was looking like a right stop gap but then this came up. I had considered supercharging the E92 V8 but I have the zed for that and that's a money pit right there.

Thanks for the comments guys n girls.

Dan, I always wanted one as I missed out on an R34 about 10yrs ago! It was the perfect one and I swore I'd get the R35 when it was sensible money. From a purist point of view I'd take a gen 2 997 GT3 RS all day but have you seen the prices. Finally make no mistake the thing can shift and can be pushed or provoked to overwhelm the amazing AWD and different and electronic wizardry. I aim to find those limits. Most people who say a GTR drives itself have not got there yet.

I would recommend them without reservation. They do sell only the best cars they can lay their hands on and only make sure the care leaves in perfect condition! It cost them about 1k to prep the car and that was because it had to be right. You should go there even before summer and get to chat with them and have a test drive. It will get you to focus😎

Even better😎

I like when a plan comes together👠Black is beautiful but what do I know!! Subscribed.

Why not get a used unit from eBay or parts traders here. The go between £40-60. I sold mine to mark @abbey when I stripped my car.

Just found the thread and all the belts details are within. Belt number 6pk1110 will fit👠http://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/320669-idler-pulley-removal-mod-with-pics-7.html

Someone asked about it recently and I responded to that. It's worth it from a weight saving point of view it he was hoping for power which will not provide any. It will improve revs/engine response just like LW pulleys or clutch/flywheel. You just need to unbolt the smooth idler pulley above the the crank pulley and get a shorter belt and job done. Search my350z.com for the exact belt length you need. There are a couple but I didn't bookmark it as while I had this off when sc'd I intend to use it for my new custom setup to get all the belt wrap I can to prevent slip.