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350z Greddy Twin Turbo Croatia


Snjur

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Than is new one plug n play. Will test my coolant liquid for presence of Co2 on Monday.

 

I did tighten head gaskets on cold. And than following day removed heads as they where leaking on test.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

So bit of review here after couple od thousand miles :)

 

Car works and drives like its on railroad tracks.

 

Combination od suspension upgrades going with all polyurethane bushings front,rear and diff together with Yokohama AD08R and Quaife is phenomenal.

Downside of all this that car has lost that intended GT comfort/cruise thing.

Specially on bumpy roads u need to have a 2 hand on steering wheel as rebound is much faster with polyurethane.

Level of traction of Yokohamas phenomenal. Due to their stiff side wall comfort is 0, but reaction and feedback on steering wheel is flawless. In any given moment you can feel on steering where is the car and how much grip you have. On wet as well really excellent tyre. Where i was most impressed was a stoping power of this tyres while they are warm. Unbelievable that car can stop in such a small distance without activating ABS.

 

Haltech no need to talk to much about it. Really excellent piece of ECU monitoring all engine sensors and preventing that something goes wrong. I was having heating problems which (later on that) which could have gone in much more way but was kept under control by ECU. Cutting rpm limits if something is not within set parameters.

ESP on this thing is much more progressive you have i would say depending of steering angle and applied power around meter of slide before it kicks in. This can come quite nice at track where you need bit of slides. Once it engages is much more softer and nicer comparing to stock ESP. Hardly u can feel it working.

Come as well with goodies like Launch control which is really nice feature :D and flat shift. Still need to connect flat shift as i need to conect a clutch pedal sensor which i destroy when i was swaping oem pedal for RJM one.

 

A buddy who has mapped car did flawless job. Car is driving like nothing has been done. Ignition i same like it was oem. Until 3800 rpm i would say a stock VQ35De. U can't say or feel that it has twin turbo or SA ecu. Stock car. No lights on dash, all features working such as cruise control AC....

 

From 3500/3800 rpm you can start hearing whistle from turbine compressor and feel difference in car behavior. On 4000 it start pulling with significant force and 5000 do 7500 rpm is mental pull.

 

What did fascinate me how car is drivable and how this power can be put to the ground without problem. Of course if you floor it 2nd and 3rd gear or 4th even you will get a wheel spin. But the reaction of pedal position and actual power is quite nice. What i want to say pedal feeling is like i still have NA car. There is no gap or delay between a pedal and throttle. Some turbo cars you push pedal and than there is a delay between power delivery and actual depression of pedal. Hopefully u will understand what i mean.

 

Consumption in normal circumstances hasnt change a lot i would dare to say almost same.

 

And now to overheating part...

Since we mounted all together i was having peaks in coolant temp up to 110 °C and than Haltech would already kick in.

On a SR event while in lane for start i noticed temp is going up on dash luckily i was just b4 starting line so i managed to cool the car down. Went to pits and decided to take down Mishimoto thermostat and replaced it with oem one. Bleed the sistem and all tested car all ok. Went on second run big traffic to a start 33 °C outside temp and again coolant temp start going up... Again pits change this time radiator cap and went with oem. Decided to call it a day and went to garage. Again hooked up that jar for bleeding system to radiator drained all. Went on test drive again. As soon as you push the car couple of gear close to red rpm area coolan temp goes to 110 °C.

 

Wasn't good. Since we spent so much time bleeding system even lifting car all kinds of funny things we start ruling out cooling and start suspecting head gaskets :(

 

And little bit here little bit there we got in touch with owner who had first boosted Z in Croatia and i would say one of first boosted Zed in Europe who was being assembled at Novidem in Switzerland. Was often on Ring and track around EU

 

After chatting with him we found out he had almost identical problems. While driving normal coolant was ok. As soon as it started to push car temp would go up. Car was for a month at Novidem while they where trying to figure out what was wrong.

 

It turns out larger radiator. VQ35DE requires fast exchange of coolant water between radiator and engine. By placing a larger radiator you are actually slowing down that process. On NA cars this has not much of influence i belive you can floor the pedal on standard VQ and come in couple of days time coolant temp wouldn't move. But in boosted applications where temperatures are quite higher and peaks are more often this is very important.

 

Since it didn't cost me anything to try swaping radiators except labour time b4 taking heads down ( coolant was tested for Co2 presence and result negative) decide to ditch Mishimoto and put OEM radiator and Fans. Bleed the system and went on a test rides.

Repeatedly pushing car from 2 to 6th gear on highway coolant temp never went in its peak more than 98°C. And this was after 4 or 5 concluded repeat.

 

This coolant temp really cost me a headache. So much time was lost on bleeding car for air checking inspecting figuring out all but in the end we manage to find it out.

 

Still I have difference in mixture between Bank 1 and Bank 2. It's some 10% which has been compesated with fuel trim. But this is 10% of lost power.

 

I still suspect on Cosworth camshafts. B4 make final verdict i will inspect turbines Mitsubishi TD06-20g although i doubt as they came new and where inspected at Apexi USA.

 

Since mechanically car is flawless, dynamic pressure inside all 6 cylinders is identical 14.0 bar, all other components have as well been tested, heads have been tested twice all perfect, and this difference is appearing with increas of RPM plus fuel compesation was done for entire bank not 1 particular cylinder leads me to think that Cosworth aka Kelford cams suck. Combine that with missing end plugs what happened earlier with them and you have a combination for failure.

Customer support is 0 and the best of all there is no warranty on them.

 

Unlike Mishimoto Customer support which is something by far best experience i had so far in terms or warranty and complains

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by Snjur
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How's the coolant issue going now buddy ? :)

No more problems with coolant temp after going back to OEM radiator and fans. Tested repeatedly it never went over 98 °C. Only thing what i plan to add or better say replace is OEM thermostat and radiator cap with Nismo ones

 

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Started production on my exhaust which will be a copy of Invidia Gemini.

 

Next week will take one of the springs from wastegates and make a stiffer/stronger springs based on it as i couldn't go over 1.2 bar of boost with present springs.

 

And see what we can get on 1.5 bar of boost.

 

Im looking somwhere around + 700 bhp

 

 

 

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Now we are on 635 bhp on 1.1-1.2 bar of boost. So on 1.5 i think its doable. To squeeze out 60 70 bhp on 0.3 bar increase. Anyway keeping fingers cross

 

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Hehehe unfortunately it ain't mine. Is my buddys roadster with 798 bhp. I reckon after remap and going full boost of 1.5 1.6 bar and planned +700 bhp I shouldn't be much slower comparing to roadster and his weight

 

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Thanks guys on positive comments. Updates will be bit slow from now on. I have a set of Sparco seats that i need to re trim into leather and fabricate low mount seat rails.

Want to put aero wing at back not sure yet which way exactly.

Exhausted is being fabricated.

So once exhaust is done put a stiffer spring on WG and go on max boost. Shouldn't be far behind from this roadster.

Ah yes plan is as well to fabricate a CF hood with vents already instaled into it. I bought this present one from UK seller but fitment was tragicall. It was shor almost 2 inch and even today after all modifications done to it im not happy

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well how I have a lot of time on my hands offshore I did some research.

 

There is an billet compressor wheel upgrade for Mitsubishi TD20-06g turbines.

 

Which is leading to around 430-450 bhp per turbine.

Good news definitely.

 

Only thing now is how much restrictions will be the heads.

Since i run oem size valve with famous Cosworth cams which are alomst identical to OEM just have 2mm bigger lift

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Still hasn't finish it, missing final polish and touches. Brand is called Shacal and it famous here. Did create some of iconic sounds. It's quality stuff. 3 years warranty

 

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Edited by Snjur
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How's it going mate?

Is going bit by bit. Had Nismo thermostat arrived from states so i need to replace it.

 

I also need to fabricate stiffer springs for Greddy Watergate to go stronger. I was looking in Europe but nobody has on stock :(

 

I have a streer race event on September 03rd so plan to have car ready by than

 

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:D:D:D

 

Finally completed all.

 

Mounted exhaust, replaced springs in WG and tuned the car.

 

My o my!! Previous tune was 640 bhp on 1.1 bar. Now is around 1.6 with small peaks in overbost to 1.8.

 

Car goes insane. I think we went above 700 bhp.

 

Car is pulling sideways in 4 5 gear in peak.

 

Inase power. On the way home stumbled upon c63 amg 2015.

Did few pulls on highway no way merc can keep up.

 

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Arriving home this was waiting for me

 

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