Ekona

Take a look at Ikea. I know, their showrooms are dire, but they have an on-line customisation tool so you basically build your own. For what they cost, good quality too.

That's where the best mate got his G from. He's done a few runs with them now, reckons they're *ahem* 'brisk'!

Tyre temps, I reckon. Also, how amazing was Seb's lap?! It was like watching Lewis on a charge, utterly mesmerising. Fantastic to watch, really hope he gets the win tomorrow now. Kimi, on the other hand, can FRO. Hope his engine blows up.

No probs fella, any time

Aussies will thrash us. You watch. *touches nose*

Christ, I can ramble when I get going

If they're adjustable ARBs, try slackening them off a notch if possible. If not, you should be able to accomplish the same thing by running the dampers much softer than you are now. You could also remove some pre-load from the springs, if you have any on. Try things in that order, and you should see a noticeable difference. I ran Eibachs on my 350 on OEM dampers and springs, which gave me plenty of feel whilst eliminating a good portion of roll. The trouble with suspension tuning is one man's accurate is another man's twitchy mess, it's so hard to get right which is why the top guys charge a fortune. Not saying this next bit applies to you, but the biggest mistake some people make is thinking that stiff everything is the way to go. Whilst as a general rule that's true, it's also very compromising on road cars cars that see occasional track use. If you want to do it 'properly', slacken everything off to as loose as possible, then increase things one item at a time. Once you've got to where you want to be with one, then adjust the next item and so on. Boring, but the right way to do it. Also, don't feel that you should run the dampers on the same amount of clicks: You'll very likely want the fronts stiffer to cope with the extra weight. On my MR2, I run the rears 4 clicks harder than the front, remembering the engine is in the middle. On a 350 with the BCs on on a fellow member's car, I set them up approx 12 from stiff at the front, and 17 from stiff at the rear IIRC. That gave a lovely feel, but in balance with the ARBs he had fitted at the time and on 18" wheels. On the 19"s on the 370, you have less tyre wall to give you feedback along with a stiffer chassis from the off, so you may need to go softer than you think. All about balance and personal taste at the end of the day. Don't feel you have to run my numbers either: If you find the car better with the opposite, then stick with it

More than welcome matey, assuming you can get here! Tbh my goal isn't to remove roll, as that's part of a great handling road car that gives you the feedback to balance on the limit. The 991 (sorry for the Porsche stuff, only thing I can relate to!) corners dead flat with the optional PDCC active ARBs, but you have no idea where the limit is: A standard 991 is infinitely more fun, if a bit slower. Again, infinite grip isn't what I want on the road either, hence running relatively skinny tyres at 245/45/18. I like feeling the car move around a la GT86, so I don't want to get rid of that either. What I really want is more control over the way the car moves, so I'll probably run the ARBs on soft front middle rear, and the dampers at approx midway (allowing for weight distribution), so maybe 10 clicks from hard at the front and 15 clicks at the rear. I'm guessing the M6 has the chassis welded up better like the E46 M3 did, so ultimately I can't beat that kind of structural rigidity. But yes, I'd expect to be able to have more control AND more feedback from the suspension than the M6 when done, if not more grip. Much less speed in a straight line though! And of course, if I do want it to grip better and roll less than the M6, I can do that too

Quite. You may get lucky in court, but you may not.

Nonononononononononononono.

Photoshop. /thread

First I've heard of it. More likely to be for drivability, IMHO.

Oh, and I need to get my front bumper sprayed, as when I took the stickers off its taken the lacquer with it

Looking like a couple of hundred quid for a second hand one, then the same again to spray, then whatever the wing costs.

Can a friendly mod move this to Other Cars please, where it should've been put in the first place :blush Car is now in the garage, so the long two week wait starts here. I've managed to haggle the cost of the roof wrap into the final bill, so that's getting done as well now. Suspension hasn't arrived yet so I'll have to ferry that down to them next week which is a shame, but that's my fault for not ordering it earlier. Tell you what though, I'm glad I didn't try and get the ARBs on myself, as I found out today that you have to drop the rear subframe to change them! Costs more to do the ARBs than to change the dampers and springs! So yeah, the garage is doing the following: - Valve stem seals - Coolant pipe - Swapping tyres to new wheels - Fitting new wheels - ARBs - Suspension - Roof wrap Guesses of the final bill to the usual address... Anyway, I'm a little bit excited now Roll on October 3rd!

Couldn't care less. This is what happens when governments force huge companies to concentrate on punitive emissions rather than a sensible reduction. It's why we have cars with manufacturer MPG numbers that don't even come close to the real world. Everything is done to pass a test, not to actually make things better for us. Good for VW for finding a way round that.

No worries fella, I know the feeling See how tomorrow goes, but you may have to be a bit pragmatic here and cough up for the clutch and flywheel. At 50k you might not be too far off needing one anyway, and a court may well think that a 9 year old car could reasonably be expected to need a clutch as wear and tear. Personally I don't agree, but you never know who you may get if you went SCC. At this point they're offering to repair as long as you pay for parts, and like I said if it's not the clutch and fly then that's going to cause him the bigger issue than you. This would be much better coming from you though, not your Dad. He does not have a contract with them, you do. Go with him, or at least make sure that Dad doesn't do ANYTHING confrontational.

Wait until you get used to the car. No chance in hell it'll even be close. And that's coming from someone who doesn't even like the GT-R.

I have.

On second thoughts, pictures may not help your case!

That's like comparing an MX-5 with a Exige V6. Not even close.

Some pics might help interest.

Spare must ALWAYS go on the non-driven wheels, regardless of car. If on 4x4, it goes on the front. If it won't fit, then call the breakdown services.

Hang on, let's go back here. I can guess at some of the answers, but let's get them clarified in one place anyway. When did you buy the car? From a dealer, yes? Mileage & year? What price did you pay? (Yes, this is all relevant to the naysayers!). When did you notice the problem? When did you let them know there was an issue? What did they do when you told them? Are they declining to fix unless you cough up? My initial thoughts are that this has SOGA and SCC written all over it. 2 months is nothing, a court is very likely likely to agree that the fault existed from purchase. They can fit whatever parts they like to solve the problem, they do NOT have to use OEM parts, but they DO have to fix it. Wear and tear isn't relevant at this point AS LONG AS THE MILEAGE ISNT SKY HIGH. I agree with Alex, £350 is peanuts if the car is on the original clutch and flywheel, so take that. If it doesn't fix the problem, so what? They have to take it back and fix it again, not your problem and not your cost.

PF 01 pads on the front, and Z Rated pads on the rear. Utterly brilliant, and if I had a Zed again I would be exclusively looking at the Performance Friction range. Best brakes I've ever tried on a 350, especially with the matching ally belled discs.