If they're adjustable ARBs, try slackening them off a notch if possible. If not, you should be able to accomplish the same thing by running the dampers much softer than you are now. You could also remove some pre-load from the springs, if you have any on.
Try things in that order, and you should see a noticeable difference. I ran Eibachs on my 350 on OEM dampers and springs, which gave me plenty of feel whilst eliminating a good portion of roll.
The trouble with suspension tuning is one man's accurate is another man's twitchy mess, it's so hard to get right which is why the top guys charge a fortune. Not saying this next bit applies to you, but the biggest mistake some people make is thinking that stiff everything is the way to go. Whilst as a general rule that's true, it's also very compromising on road cars cars that see occasional track use.
If you want to do it 'properly', slacken everything off to as loose as possible, then increase things one item at a time. Once you've got to where you want to be with one, then adjust the next item and so on. Boring, but the right way to do it. Also, don't feel that you should run the dampers on the same amount of clicks: You'll very likely want the fronts stiffer to cope with the extra weight. On my MR2, I run the rears 4 clicks harder than the front, remembering the engine is in the middle. On a 350 with the BCs on on a fellow member's car, I set them up approx 12 from stiff at the front, and 17 from stiff at the rear IIRC. That gave a lovely feel, but in balance with the ARBs he had fitted at the time and on 18" wheels. On the 19"s on the 370, you have less tyre wall to give you feedback along with a stiffer chassis from the off, so you may need to go softer than you think.
All about balance and personal taste at the end of the day. Don't feel you have to run my numbers either: If you find the car better with the opposite, then stick with it