msitpro

@Mark@Abbey m/s Think he's referring to fast idle emissions, which isn't usually affected by map, because it's always a light load 14.7:1 fuel target part. @Nardo_Z I'd go for dual HFCs on each branch like I will be... I have a 3rd cat currently after the Y-pipe area which has a 5" mantle/body and 3" in/out, the largest you can get off the shelf. (It's a Jetex Euro 5) This still only just passes emissions for me, due to the ones installed by a custom exhaust fab shop likely being terrible quality - they wouldn't go less than 0.35% CO even when brand new. And the fact it's much further down the exhaust than it's designed for, so less hot/efficient - Note that a single 3" in/out 5" brick/mantle is rated for around 350hp by HJS who make a lot of HFC for motorsport and supercar aftermarket systems. So my 3rd cat is also currently a potential bottleneck if I had an engine capable - https://www.hjs-motorsport.de/products/tuning/universal-catalysts.html Looks like they now do a 3.5" / 6" model with 500PS peak and 3" / 5.5" with 450PS peak since I last looked. Note - picked HJS info above because they have diagrams and power estimates readily available - they are very expensive and I can't find any evidence whether they are more effective at removing CO and HC than other decent makes. Personally I've ordered a couple of Magnaflow 3"/5" off eBay to add to my existing upper cats. I'm aiming to get my CO% at or below 0.15% for peace of mind once I have quad cats like OEM. For reference I think a stock Z does around 0.02% CO with it's quad cats. (each side/unit has 2 bricks/mantles)

Perfect, I've ordered a set for when I get my car back from the bodyshop

As Mark has elaborated on - 'short' rather than long tube headers like my DC sports then fit standard DE cats (or HR if you buy HR compatible headers) - or DE HFC as I have. Beware that a single HFC cat on each branch will likely only just squeak past MOT limits on CO % for a year or two. I'm having a second HFC after the bend, as the OEM cat unit have - 2 mantles. 'Long tube' headers are designed for either no cats, or something custom fitment after that. (which isn't difficult for a custom exhaust place to do - order some Magnaflow or HJS if you feel fancy) On the cams - a fair bit yeah - Mark might be best to answer better regards to emissions / MOT testing with cams. Although I suspect what he'll say is any customer he knows with higher duration cams are running without cats and pay off their tester if it's a road car You can work out overlap versus OEM if that's your thing by Googling 'Jim Wolf VQ35 cam card' and look at the PDF that comes up.

Yeah I think we witnessed this with my car - probably only 5whp more than a DE with stock headers.

https://conceptzperformance.com/czp-front-knuckle-lower-control-arm-ball-joint-w-seat-nissan-350z-03-04-infiniti-g35-03-04-sedan-coupe-1010163-s_p_12275.php https://conceptzperformance.com/czp-front-knuckle-lower-control-arm-ball-joint-w-seat-nissan-350z-05-08-infiniti-g35-05-06-sedan-05-07-coupe-1010163-s5_p_20887.php https://conceptzperformance.com/czp-oem-replacement-front-lower-ball-joint-w-seat-energy-suspension-polyurethane-boot-nissan-350z-infiniti-g35-czp-1010163-s_p_52977.php

conceptzperformance in USA - think they're about £35 each - you won't get hit on import duty unless total is over £135.

After just the rear passenger side light, LED facelift style. Needs to be in very good condition with no broken locating pins. I have already PM'd ZMANALEX several days ago with no reply.

What tyres are on that? They look delicious... And racy (semi slick looking)

I bought ball joint cup and U clamp kits totalling around £70 on ebay, ball joints around £40 each from conceptzperformance in the USA and replaced mine around 1 hour per side including jacking up and down on my driveway. (With an impact) I reckon if you didn't fancy the work yourself you'd only pay a garage £200 tops if you supplied the BJs to them. Note anything less then £135 value goes though customs fine.

In theory with those mods, 260whp/300bhp

Haha, probably be Bridgestone S001 standard OEM spec in 19" (S007 if 20")

So this is just a case of the ceramic coating applied in April breaking down in 6 months of exposure..? Then removing and re-applying as before. Interesting, as I used ceramic on the OEM 06+ headlights I installed a couple months ago, so will need to keep an eye for when the ceramic starts to break down.

Beaut!! Is that stock ride height on 19s? What are the tyre sizes?

Emissions figures please! Did you witness the test being run? Did they keep it at 2500-3000 for the whole 30 seconds on the fast idle test? (it's easy to fake the result if you just prod the throttle in the last few seconds, with the pipe adding latency to the CO / HC sensor)

Would love to know the OEM p/n on the door sill and mats

Also - only came on JDM market 350 Nismos. North American Nismos don't have the arch extensions. I want them!!

Sold.

Small parts aren't a problem - I bought some PS cooler silicone hoses and a couple ball joints for under the £135 threshold.

Quite a few products from Z1 and ConceptZ - silicone pipes, bushings, diff braces, ball joints, just a few off my head. @davey_83 - surely plenty of quality rear camber arms available in UK? Voodoo13 and SPL are available - if you want PU bushes then I see Driftworks now do a v2 of their arms with a better black paint coating. Or Hardrace?

Probably 65,000 miles in my case! I guess they would wear more if they are exposed to high heats on track, extreme forces on track, etc. or even just hard road driving. Pretty sure lower offset wheels, or much heavier wheels would also take their toll.

I recently had massive steering wheel vibration while braking on a track day which turned out to be a bad front driver's side wheel bearing.

Stance so on point - might have to change my 265/35 285/35 setup for 255/40 275/40. I'm low but gaping arch gaps!

These rust like bastard don't they?! I bought new OEM from stealer when I did a full rear subframe refresh and I seem to remember they were a bit of dolla! (also from Japan stock I think)

Most things from Advan's catalogue.... Optimal sizing would be 18x9.5 +15 front, 18x10.5 +25 rear in my experience, with 265/35/18 F and 285/35/18 R

lol - change the fuelling via a remap and you'll gain power I'd love to suddenly find my engine running lean while still giving normal power - means there's more power on the table.