msitpro

https://gramsstyling.co.uk/product/nissan-350z-style-side-louvers/

I only just managed to get some otherwise I wouldn't have made it. I suspect attendance will be hit reasonably hard.

"It was very well organised last year." hmmmm?

Ah, indeed - that bypassed me. I assumed Main and Show entrance were same thing, but yes the show entrance seems to be the one down the back/side road looking at the map. I've seen directions to it before, before the main spectator entrance.

https://www.gojapan.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/6/2021/09/GOJapanplan2021CLUBS.pdf Yellow zone - entry via main entrance at 0730. 🥺 Will need pass here - https://www.gojapan.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/6/2021/09/GoJapan_YellowCarClubPass.pdf

I'll see you inside around then. Do you have a stand plot location within the grounds allocated? (I've been to Brands many times so a rectangle on a map will be easy for me to locate) David

http://www.vk2zay.net/calculators/helmholtz.php https://wilhelmraceworks.com/blog/killing-drone I have a quarter-wave pipe I had made for a specific length on my exhaust to cancel out drone between 2k and 3k. Sadly I also need a different length one for 1.5-2k.

I had the same thought after fitting my BCs in a rush to pack up and get out of my dad's workshop at end of day... then realised I was being stupid next time I got in front of the engine bay. Can't remember what it was though - maybe the strut brace back to front? The jam nut length adjustment on the strut bar should be on the driver's side.

Typical stealer. Always 1 careful lady owner 🙄

Totally agree on the drone point with HFC and exhaust. I'm going to try reduce it with lots of heat wrap in future I think. I also have stainless (thin wall) headers so probably worse than yours is. Stock are cast double-walled... RE the rear brace. Also a UR user here - also hits on my exhaust at about 4000rpm or a short sharp acceleration. I need to pull it off to re-paint anyway as the stock coating is poor and I'm going to 'massage' with a hammer to get the clearance I need

Beautiful wheels IMO. As others have said, what's the width and offsets?

Those look/sound good, and great value as well. Just looked back at exactly what mine are - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/kirkey-coilover-cover-244240/ Black, small. £43 per pair. "Manufactured from vinyl, providing a wipe clean finish which protects coilovers from dirt and debris without interrupting performance." It's true - wipe clean - I just wash them in the sink with washing up liquid etc. They don't have any logos on like the picture, and I cut the tapered ends off the bottom and just cut and then put a new zip tie on the end at the lower end each time I re-fit them.

I take them off and clean them every now and then - suspension underneath is spotless. Before I had them, all manner of grime and surface rust occurred in the threads. Spent about 14 hours un-seizing them last year in lockdown. They were only 18 months old from new and covered about 10,000 miles. When I un-seized them last year I added a bit of copper ease on the threads and wound the collars up and down the length freely to spread it evenly.

Can't remember the make of the ones I bought but they're like a fake leather material. I think an American brand via Demon Tweeks. Velcro on the ends, wraps around. I have cut the tapered bottoms off of the ones I have and then just zip tie the bottom secure. Absolutely essential for coilovers in the UK IMO. Zero downsides.

Note also can improve grip via preventing a wheel leaving the ground. (Improved droop)

I did wonder if that was the case haha Good thinking on the rake - see so many slam the rear and in my personal experience it messes up the balance of the car , turn in etc. The helper spring will be fully compressed at normal ride height. It softens the spring rate when you 'land' from a larger bump. Think it makes the effective spring rate around (spring1+spring2)/2 when 'landing'. So in your case 8k. You'd not want it uncompressed at all at normal ride height. That's like a progressive wound spring where it could change handling characteristics WHILE cornering - not predictable.

Ahh snap on the front. What do you think? Currently running 8k on the back of my 'true' coils myself - purely for arch clearance reasons due to silly wide semi slicks and stock arches. Extremely stiff. I have 6k rear springs as well and really that's the limit IMO for any kind of comfort whatsoever. I think I'll go 10-12k front and 6k rear when these wheels/tyres come off and I go back to the TC-4s.

unexpected! Very nice What are the spring rates?

I currently have 9.5 +23 on the front of mine and have also run 10.0 +25 . The latter is very close to the upright - probably about 4mm gap, but never hit it. Ideal would be a 9.5 +30 with a 660mm tall tyre to keep optimal scrub radius. (255/40/18 , 255/35/19) This would give a very small stretch (supposedly good for sidewall stiffness/turn-in) , edge of the wheel will be ideal poke and the tyre will tuck lovely under the arches. Even my Trofeo R 265/35/19 which are actually as wide on the shoulder as a UHP 285 tyre tuck under without issue.

330bhp (at flywheel) is around 290 at the wheels. You WILL need at least a set of aftermarket cams with 256-262 degrees of duration. Something like the JWT S1, S2 or C2 cams. The latter being a bit more aggressive than the 'S' models. Plus full exhaust, high flow cats, higher flow air filter, plenum spacer and a UpRev dyno tune. You should hit 285-290 at the wheels with that combo. All in, around £3500-4000 if paying for the cam install and tune.

I have one - PM me if you still need one.

I think C2 is actually closer to original Nissan spec for the Z33 in terms of HTHS viscosity in mPas (2.9-3.5) Although C3 certainly won't hurt, especially if you don't have an external oil cooler and drive the car hard.

Hmm didn't realise how solid it was or that was it's intention. Will defo use in future if so. With my Nismo V3 rear bumper, access is a breeze to the diff.

Did you get the door cards refinished by a professional? How does the leather material 'wrap' around the edges of the plastic etc? If it even wraps around - maybe it's stitched through the plastic? How is the fit? Maybe you can post some close-up photos of the edges and/or back side of those parts of the door cards.