msitpro

I know it says engine power and engine torque, but is that what the wheels/hubs or an estimate of flywheel power? It's either a poor bolt on DE with 290hp @ fly, or an amazing bolt on DE with 290hp at the wheels. I can't remember what cams you have, but looking at the torque curve, I suspect peak power will be around 8k...

Well I suspect you'll be around 390hp once you map it above 7k. 👍 Shame we can't easily run massive lift (12-13mm) cams on these engines like OEM Porsche GT motors. Maybe you can use more lift at higher rpm where the cam is best at zero advance anyway? Just not in the mid range because you want cam advance for best torque. 🤔 The VHR with VVEL opens up so many more possibilities - stock max is 280 deg and 11.5mm lift and physically adjustable to 12.7mm!

👍 I did wonder if that was the case or what you meant. I'd guess peak power would be around 7500-7800rpm , provided the OEM HR plenum flows well enough. 🤔

Sounds very similar to mine. But then we do both have upgraded wider bore headers and the same plenum.

peaking at just under 7000? what cams are in it?

Although in the company I was in, 350Z != power

That's the idea...! More at home when I softened the rear arb in the afternoon and could actually put some power down on corner exit without it wanting to kill me

Does the 370's traction control not have an issue with 265/35/19 and 305/30/19 ? Rear is shorter than the front slightly. Also the total height of both is a fair bit smaller - more arch gap now? Also surprised that 305s fit without smashing the arches under compression - unless you have rolled/pulled arches or those 305s maybe measure 275-280 for the tread section?

I've clayed exhaust tips before - works really well, better than Autosol etc for getting crud off in my experience 👍

On track at Snett last week

Both C3 which means minimum 3.5mPa/s when hot, along with being low sulphur, sulphated ash (good for catalyst life) Does look like just different manufacturer approvals which differences can only then be down to the combination of additives used really. C3 grade oil is very slightly thicker than the OEM spec oil btw - that's rated 2.9-3.5mPa/s A5/B5 For normal road use on a standard-ish spec car, C2 is the closest modern spec with the 2.9-3.5 HTHS rating and keep optimal fuel economy and performance.

Very interested to see a emissions test result on these (HC ppm, CO % )

Sounds like it's worth more like £1800-2000 tbh!

Amazingly little blow-by in your plenum! 😮

They are good aren't they! No need to slam with my rear wing

I know the feeling - running part worn Trofeo R currently Will be taking a set of spare wheels on Advan V105S to track next week

Agree. I had some RE050A briefly. They get a bad rep - very good UHP tyre. Similar to a Mich PSS ... 🤔

Having said the above - could be somebody's preference to pay £400-650 and not have the 'hassle' of learning it themselves. £400-650 actually isn't bad at all, as long as the end result is good.

@Ekona surely - rough corner weights based on factory weight balances and overall curb weight knowledge of OEM and current spring rates knowledge of OEM handling characteristics knowledge of OEM alignment spec knowledge of OEM wheel and tyre spec vs current awareness of any change of ARBs ...can be used to get a very good alignment and setup for road and track use, short of professional race outfits. (the latter having real corner weight scales) I used all of the above to choose spring rates, camber, toe and arb settings. My local garage used MY alignment spec that I learned and researched would be a good setup, and it works well. (in my opinion - and I have had some shocking setups that DIDN'T work well at all before understanding the effect of some changes I had made over the years) Of course, I have adjustment on all of these so have tested and tested. Some of these adjustable parts the OP likely doesn't have.

Facelift headlights at last! ♥️

Just found this thread via google search. All good info which backs up what I've been saying for the past year. When I bought my BC BR 'true' rear coils after only 3 months of Z ownership, I did not know about motion ratio. I soon learnt what it was when my back broke on every speed bump. (Car is used 95% fair weather road driving but also occasional hard track driving.) BC spec these with 12k rear spring out the box!!! I switched to a 6kg/mm Swift rear spring (and from 14 front to 8 - probably should be 12-14 front still for balanced wheel ratio really) Anyway ... I have a new dilemma where I have reduced rear tyre/wing clearance (fat arse semi slicks) and can't 'tuck' my tyres under compression. I have static ride height currently with about 35mm compression available before fouling arch. Been looking at adding a tender spring in addition to the original 12k spring on the back, so it goes from an effective 5k spring then into the 12k .... but this may induce some undesirable handling when compressed beyond the tender spring binding point. Been delving into tender spring rate, free length/travel length before binding, calculating corner weight to work out the static ride height compression of the tender spring.... hmmm. Anybody know the typical forces a wheel would see under hard compression over a bump???

Hmmm C3 and LL-04 standard - might stick it in the N53 325i , but expect to top it up through burn-off often.

I would read the spec sheet and yeah I might if it fit what I required. Unfortunately that's where things fall down because they are unlikely to list enough specifications for me to make a decision. TBN, NOACK and HTHS are unlikely to be available for a 'non-branded' oil.

I went over the other day for a catch up and he randomly tells me he forgot he had a whole 350Z shell in his other storage down the road. 😆 He's done cages on Zs before which is why he had the shell, but probably weld-in?

Yep, it's great stuff. Highly recommended.