msitpro

Wheels in the silver for me, rather than bronze for the trim and the wheels.

A lot of sense spoken Ian I'm at similar money now on my Z, and if my relationship was at a more advanced stage then I think it would have been in danger during my recent respray part of the project. Prices on hoses/fittings is mental isn't it... Although cheaper fittings than AN style/braided ones would do the job more than adequately I am sure, for a fraction of the cost?

Btw - is that a home garage/your own place? So very jealous of a lift... all my work is done on driveway and axle stands

So glad you're saving another

Defo watching this later.... In many places on the bottom it looks much worse than mine was, but maybe the inner arches not as bad. This was the state of mine - Yes, it's been re-fabbed now:

Yessssssss this.

Could maybe get a Amuse or similar bodykit instead - similar vibe/look and rarer. The driving dynamics could be improved beyond Nismo spec with aftermarket suspension components - KW or Ohlins coils maybe, adjustable FUCA, rear camber and toe arms....

That's OK though right - you enjoyed it?

Need a definition of 'finished' haha. Does it mean 1000hp engine on a engine dyno, or in a rolling working road-worthy car with adequate wheels, tyres, suspension etc? As we all know, a project car is very rarely finished!

18x10 +25 front and back. 265/35 front 285/35 rear I always said my dream wheels would be Advan GTs in satin black or the same gunmetal/silver. Very hard to justify £4000+ though in the right fitment, before tyres. These TC4 came up on JDMdistro about 15 months ago. Not ideal fitment, as I've got the weirdness of a 265 F and 285 R, so different sidewall bulges Also ride height for UK roads, driveways is an issue with running 18s on 35 profile. But then 245/265 would look silly on the width of these wheels!

Well I did... And deleted the rest because I thought it was against the rules of the thread! I need to pull my finger out and edit some more without rear plate in view. Here's another anyway...

I agree. But you just know people at Toyota are comparing them

Top man maths... Personally Yaris not for me - I'd rather a RWD coupe. So I'm with you on the Z used route. Try getting a used Supra for near Z money...! The 2.0 Supra uses the lower spec B48 engine, in it's highest tune of 255bhp btw. BMW recently introduced a new version with forged crank in the new 135i for 306hp or so I think it is. The older spec which tops out at 255 stock is supposedly only good for around 300 tops before reliability problems occur. Meaning a second hand Z, with worst case around 450hp potential from a DE block makes sense.

Maybe but it wasn't necessarily well known what the formula was back then. Nowadays if you want to go roll racing on the highways of Texas you wanna start at 2000hp.... In the world of VR38 once you go beyond 2100-2200 for any kind of reliability you need a billet block. I think anything over about 1200 you want a billet mains girdle. Not so up to speed on the 2J - might take 1100-2000hp better due to being an iron block. (and a thick one - much thicker than any RB)

Nice option but needs to start at £35,000, as you allude to. Believe £35k is still higher than the GR Yaris, if Toyota were worried about competition with that. Although I'm not sure somebody in the market for a coupe is looking at tiny hatchbacks?

Literally only just noticed, to my eye they look a little like the OEM RX-8 wheels. Same era I guess.

You'll need to take the whole brace off really, but that's only about 6 nuts/bolts? If you don't you'd be bending it out the way very severely to get the compression arm bush off the stud. The stud is very long. You'll want to put it on stands on the under side chassis rail seams both sides and get it up about 2 foot in the air to get under and get the brace off etc. It's not a difficult job really when compared to trying to do a ball joint on the driveway when there's limited space to get both a gun and C-clamp under the car without the ground fouling.....

325i E90 I have I bought on 100k - feels and drives far better than say a 50k mile Citroen!!! (and less likely for mechanical issues, although when they do happen, bit more expensive parts) Now on 122k, owned 2 years and never broken down.

First decent pics after respray in Bayside Blue

Yeah new from dealer will start looking brown in about 30 seconds Apply copious amounts of <insert fave rust preventing sealant here> and it should be looking good for donkeys years.

Looks great with the interior all sprayed

That's the price you should be paying for a totally standard 30,000 mile HR (2007 onward) IMO Although I have noticed prices creeping up since I bought mine in 2018. The MOST important thing you need to do is look underneath one. I know this first hand. Even then, the problem might be what might not be visible by looking under it. The biggest value in buying a Z in my opinion is if it's a) super low mileage (while still being serviced) and b) stored in a garage The below pics are of my INNER quarter panels - something you can't see without taking the outer skin off (spot welded) and the side skirts.

I should do this... the fast long right hander at Snetterton (2nd to last corner) I was limited by VDC grabbing brakes Might also be why my pads are nearly gone.

What's the spec on the wheels and tyres? What centre lock stud conversion is it?

Agree, always preferred the 350 shape, headlights and length. Also agree white is the best colour for the Nismo 370, not that there's many colours available -