msitpro

Hi Adrian; are the AAM DE spacers currently in stock?

Seems I am still looking as the above have been sold after I had asked for payment info!

Seems like all the ones that used to be available are no longer available. Anybody have an actual carbon strut bar they're willing to part with? Looking to save a couple of KG.

This is correct. The 06> bumper is slightly wider, including any 'Nismo V2' front bumper also as I discovered, so I run the 06+ arch liners on my 04 w/ v2 bumper.

Hmm.... not that great reflections from a brand spanking new custom paint job. Looks a little cloudy on the doors.

As title, would like to buy 06+ OEM bi-xenon headlights from rev-up DE or HR models for my 04 DE GT 350Z. Must be right hand drive items and come with ballasts etc. for a straight swap.

Dew beading this morning after wax the other day (Farecla G3 retail range stuff)

Loved this series James is flipping hilarious. Sad to hear about his health recently though.

the biggest factor in my experience in how frequent or how likely the EML will come on is the length of tube the sensors are attached to. You can see here that the Torqen decats have a tube sprouting off the middle of the tube that the sensors screw into. It is also against the flow of the gases so it has to go 'uphill' to get to the sensors. When I had my full exhaust built, contrary to my request, the exhaust company did not add a length of tube to take the O2 sensors out of the flow of exhaust gas post-HFC. The EML came on ALLLLL the time, it would return within minutes of driving after clearing it with a OBDII tool. I added (at their cost) something like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/O2-Oxygen-Spacer-Sensor-Angled-Extension-90-Degree-m18x-1-5mm-Universal-Exhaust/383286866100?epid=21020085015&hash=item593dad70b4:g:-qkAAOSwYjVadBLo EML still occasionally comes on, so I might stuff some stainless wool down them.

I bought the mildly uprated ones also and still found them inadequate at times to hold up the hatch.

I bought new OEM module due to mine having 'vol' rubbed off... think only around £45 yes you have to remove the wheel

Changing to either de-cat or 200 cell cats will be the biggest increase in volume you can make, but on a standard-ish sounding current system should be good. Personally what I'd like to see on the market would be 200 cell cats with dual honeycomb cat 'bricks' per side, as per standard, but of course more free-flowing. (standard cats have a honeycomb 'brick' before and after their bend) I have single 200 cell cat per side and with extensions it comes on occasionally. I may add some steel wool inside the extensions to try eradicate it.

A large single from the Y-back will be louder. Primarily because there will be less pipework and mufflers/resonators. I am suffering with hearing loss with my stainless headers, 3" single, 2x 4" wide resonators and 200 cell HFCs (putting in a 4"x9"x18" oval rear turbo style muffler soon)

Some people in another past thread last year mentioned that their units came with RHD written on the actual housings in pen from the manufacturer. Can you confirm if this is still the case with the current batch? And if so, if that just a factory side adjustment that anybody could do themselves? Don't know if there's any self- adjustment on the unit without opening up the housing and 'getting dirty'/breaking warranties

so... what's the easiest way of getting these to work well and legally on a RHD car?

RX-7 FD3S NSX NA1 or NA2 Cayman S In that order.

Highly recommended from me. Sometimes get a look from a pedestrian due to being fairly loud. But no louder than some OEM car fans tbh. It'll only be when sat at traffic lights for an extended time that you'll hear them cutting in or if you have AC on at low speeds. Enough noise inside the average Z cabin to drown them out above 20mph!!

Also an HR... I wonder if emissions are generally better.

I don't suppose you know your tester very well? I now have 3 200 cell cats in my exhaust and can only just manage 0.19% and 124 ppm HC on my MOT yesterday on about the 4th go (by this point the brake fluid starts boiling as it runs next to my stainless headers) I visited my tester last week and we could not get below 0.28 if we actually ran it at 2800rpm ish for the whole test as is supposed to happen. You can cheat it VERY easily by just idling until the last few seconds, as it only counts the values at the end of the supposed 30 second long test. I'm on stock tune still.... I wonder if there's some kind of issue with my engine hmmmm

"Lower suspension arm" is not the compression/banana arm, assuming the description is accurate. Based on that description, it's very likely it's the inner one that mounts to the front subframe, as the other bush is for the shock absorber and very rarely fails. This one you can see is split/failed. Don't think you can buy the bushes OEM individually, which means it's a good opportunity to upgrade both passenger and driver side to polyurethane which lasts basically forever and is slightly firmer - see Energy Suspension part/kit 7.3121X-LCA - around £80. Then probably couple hours fitting from a garage.

Depending on the map, OEM map might be richer than a 'tuned' map. Richer is safer for the engine (lower risk of detonation/knock) but higher emissions. Nissan may have chosen to run a little richer than perfect to protect the engine while still coming under emissions limits easily by putting very efficient (in terms of removing CO/HC) catalysts on. Hmmmm

Just done a quick google image search on a F30 335i - they have 2 distinct sets of cats - replaceable separately. Just like R35s Be interesting for you to get an emissions test done by a friendly garage that's not going to order you off the road immediately. (like I have done)

The biggest problems could be: 1. Quality/how rich the content of platinum, rhodium, etc is on the honeycomb substrate. 2. Distance from the exhaust ports. Motordyne have measured header temps around 760 deg C and at the Y pipe intersection down to 450 ish I think it was. This will affect the efficiency because of low temperature, especially at idle when there's low load to heat up the cat to it's most effective temp. I wouldn't look at the Japspeed product as something that will pass emissions test - I've seen report of exactly their sports cats being poop on emissions. On the BMW front - that may only replace one of two cat sections. Our own 350Z has 4 cats in total. They're just in 2 removable pipes - one substrate before the bend/lambda sensor and one after. On a R35 GT-R, they will pass a UK MOT with the second set of cats removed entirely, just leaving the first set up near the exhaust manifold. I guess they're high end units and 600 cell+ I think the benefit of the Motordyne unit is to cut down a bit on the carbon monoxide and the associated smell of it, rather than being effective enough to pass any EPA or UK MOT emissions test. When I bought that unit from the previous owner (also called David!) neither of us realised that it had a cat in it or that Motordyne sold it with the option of one. I would love to hear what yours sounds like with that single 200 cell cat though. Probably almost as loud as mine...

'Beautiful' is irrelevant and an opinion. Unfortunate and sad for the family and many friends but she was doing what she loved.

Interesting - so from what Mark at Abbey is saying, if you get a remap with them, don't expect any change in performance before 3000rpm. I'm sure they COULD map that part - making it run leaner - might even improve performance. I think a lot of the mapping changes on a N/A car they do are actually leaning it out in many places.