Kryptek49

The ribbon cable on the 350z is fairly fragile, if it's damaged the fans can just blast out air without you being able to stop them. Not sure if the 370z uses the same kind of cable, could it have been dislodged or damaged? Other option could be that you've got the fans set to auto? If not, disconnecting the battery should have the same effect as pulling the fuse.

Best to take it to the experts and let them decide, however it appears most people who have had this issue have confirmed that an UpRev sorts it out.

It's not that much of a problem really, UpRev remapping has other benefits apart from sorting out your flat spot. It's one of the first things listed on Horshams tuning guide for the 350z: https://h-dev.co.uk/350z-tuning-guide/?v=79cba1185463 Only problem is if you have any plans to fit an aftermarket exhaust (including hfc) it's recommended you do this prior to the remap to get the most out of the mod. Sucks you have to spend the money, but look on the brightside - possibly 10-15 more HP

I've currently got a 2008 Suzuki GS500 - only 8 more months till I can take my full A licence test and get on a proper big bike - hopefully a 2012/13 Triumph Street Triple 675. It still seems mad to me that you can spend £3-4k on a bike that does 0-60 in 3 seconds, you can't get the level of performance from a car for anywhere near that amount.

I'm sure you can get this direct from Nissan fairly cheap? Here's a link from ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Nissan-Touch-Up-Pencil-Paint-All-Colours-Qashqai-Juke-Micra-Note-Pixo-/151336207463 This is probably the wrong one, I'd suggest calling Nissan and giving them your VIN/Reg so they can find the right one.

This line from the ad is great: "CAR WAS PREVIOUSLY CAT D AND REPAIRED BY THE PREVIOUS OWNER, HOWEVER SEAT BELT PRETENSIONERS STILL NEED TO BE RESET (HAVE BEEN QUOTED SEVENTY FIVE POUNDS FOR EACH BUT HAVENT HAD THEM DONE AS I DONT USE MY SEATBELT ANYWAY)"

Recently purchased a pair of Torqen's High Flow Cat's for my HR, so thought I'd post up a quick review. Ordered from Torqen's website for around £410 - delivery was quick, around 2 days. On first impressions the cats looked good - felt solid and I was happy. Installing in the car started pretty smoothly - fitment is spot on, and it matched up to my Miltek Y Pipe perfectly. Unfortunately, when torquing up the passenger side O2 sensor, the spacer sheared off at the weld! I've attached a photo below. As you can see it was a clean break around the weld, and the exposed metal appears to be rusty. My neighbour who used to work in a machine shop had a look at the welds and wasn't too impressed, however the larger welds around the flanges all appeared to be good. I contacted Adrian, and he sent out a brand new cat which I received the next day. This one fortunately didn't break and went in smoothly. Got the car started, and the cat's sound amazing - very loud! (Exhuast is now Torqen HFC, Miltek Y Pipe & Cobra Non-Res). When cruising at 60, it is fairly silent, however as soon as you put your foot down it roars. It's a very similar exhaust note to before, just slightly lower and a bit louder which I'm happy with. Can't say I've noticed any increase in power, however it's only supposed to be a marginal increase anyway. Overall I'm very happy with them - customer service was excellent, however the poor welding may be a cause for concern. I'd still recommend the cats at this price to everyone though.

Got it thanks - there's one stud and I imagine i'd be in for a world of pain if I snapped it.

I'm currently in the process of fitting some Torqen HFC's to my HR - thought I should check if the bolts actually have a torque spec or just "FT" Bolts in question are the 2 bolts that connect the Y Pipe, and the 3 that connect to the headers. Does it matter that much? Jobs a bit of a PITA so don't want to come back to it unless I really have to. Thanks all.

It should fit perfectly - single din on the rear isn't an issue at all, just makes cable routing that much easier as there's lots of spare space.

Probably should have looked a bit harder when buying my car 6 months ago - I was just washing it and noticed this rust on the passenger side rear arch: The car is an 07 HR with 100k miles. Driver's side has no rust fortunately. I'm based in Norfolk, so will be looking for a body shop near me to cut out and replace the rusted panels. Can anyone advise on the rough price I should expect to pay for this? If anyone knows a good body shop in Norfolk please let me know. Thanks.

Unfortunately Insurance varies massively and no-one on here will be able to explain why your quote is any higher than anyone elses. In my case I'm 23 w/ 4yrs NCB and paid £750 with Admiral for my first year with my Zed. The only difference between us may be location, but it is what it is unfortunately. Only thing you can do is keep trying quotes, or try with insurers who aren't on comparison sites.

I'm sure you will be able to come to an agreement with your insurer before you feel it's necessary to take them to court. Are they aware that your car is a special edition? You would expect to replace your car like for like so therefore would expect to be able to re-purchase the trim level you previously had. There are black editions on AutoTrader with 45k miles for £15.5k, so realistically your car would be worth £14.5 - 15k due to the higher mileage. Tell that to your insurer, but don't start threatening court cases unless you mean it as they may stop negotiating then and there.

If you drop the reg into AutoTrader as if you are going to sell the car yourself, on the second screen it will flag up if the car is a write off. Most other sites wont tell you for free.

Catalytic converter heat shields aren't really necessary so the rust isn't a problem. Rear sub-frame rusting could be an issue though depending on the severity, as it's not a particularly easy or cheap job to do - although they may be referring incorrectly to the W brace which is always rusty and fairly cheap to replace. If you've got a budget of £7,000 you are much better off buying a decent quality low mileage 350z DE/RevUp with full service history. Any 370z you are going to get for that money will likely be plagued with problems.

Looking for some High Flow Cat's for my HR - I think 370z ones will also fit. Anyone got a pair in decent condition lying around? Thanks.

Probably a scam - last cheap 370z posted on here from ebay was around that price - the seller than claimed they had recently moved to the other end of the country but could deliver the car for a few hundred pounds transferred to them. https://who-called.co.uk/Number/07709214020 might not mean anything but the phone number in the ad has been searched 150+ times which sounds a bit dodgy to me - the average persons phone number will probably have never been searched once

I've had a couple codes pop up recently - P0133 & P0131 which both relate to an O2 Sensor - Bank 1 Sensor 1. I've already got a replacement sensor from Zmanalex, however I don't know which one I'm meant to replace. Is it nearside or offside, and before or after the cat? I think it's Offside Upstream but wanted to confirm before I have to go through the massive PITA to swap it. On a side note - I've only had the car about 6 months, and the previous owner had it UpRev remapped when he had decats fitted. I'm now back on stock cats, so would Abbey Motorsports not have disabled the pre-cat O2 sensors so that there was no warning light while running on decats? Thanks in advance

Wow that is gorgeous

Just had a google and you're right - Bosch S4 & Varta D47 both have a CCA of 540Amps - so 600+ would probably be required. I've cancelled my order and ordered this instead: https://www.amazon.co.uk/TACKLIFE-Car-Jump-Starter-Flashlight/dp/B075HBDN95/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1548945143&sr=1-3-spons&keywords=600a+jump+starter&psc=1 Will update once it's arrived next week.

I've just picked up one of these as this sounds like a really good idea now you've mentioned it: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0748GL615/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Reviews are good - Amazon have a great returns policy if its junk anyway. My batteries been struggling a bit due to the cold and my short commute to work so this should hopefully do the trick if I need it. The item description mentions max engine size it's rated for is 2.5L, however a reviewer has mentioned jumping their GTR with it so we shouldn't have a problem. I can let you know next week how well it works if you want?

When they make you an offer - it is negotiable. If you can prove that your car had great service history and was in really good condition, you should get enough money to buy a car of the exact same condition. If they low-ball you by £2,000, find other examples of your exact car (trim level, optional extras etc) on Autotrader and use these to negotiate a higher price. Lots of info online if you have a google.

Yeah I do like having Cruise Control - i was thinking I'd reallocate it to in between the overhead dome lights (remove the buttons and then cut slots for them to fit into the existing blank plastic piece) and move the phone call push buttons to the spare heated seat button (getting rid of volume and seek functions as I've never used these). Could work pretty well if I can do it - might get a few custom pieces 3D printed so it looks professional. The re-trimmed wheel does look nice - but the airbag which most people won't re-trim is a bit of an eyesore. That's a nice looking wheel - there's so many choices though it's hard to pick without feeling each one - are there any shop's in the UK that sell various aftermarket wheels?

A bit off topic now... I'm stuck between getting my wheel re-trimmed by Royal Steering Wheels or getting an NRG Quick Release Hub & Wheel - do you think an aftermarket wheel is a better choice than just re-trimming the original then?

HR is 313BHP if I remember correctly. Per the Dyno sheet for my HR done at Abbey Motorsports with an UpRev & DeCats it was running at 297.2 WHP - around 337 at the fly according to Mark who works there. 311BHP is pretty high compared to stock, but wouldn't surprise me as being correct - all Dyno's vary slightly ayway