Kryptek49

Yeah @AlexRussell99 you free any other weekend?

@Scarabrae and I are meeting up with our Zeds on Sunday 9th June, probably at Browns Cafe, Mundford - near Thetford, around midday. Anyone else local want to join us?

No problem - these were removed at about 100,00 miles, no MOT issues, but replaced with HFC's

The internals aren't exposed - just the outer metal of the cat which is very solid. The heat shields are only there to reduce heat, they don't provide any other function such as reducing emissions or being a structural part of the cat Here's a photo of one of my cats with heat shield removed for reference:

I doubt the stock cat needs replacement - unless you're failing emissions on your MOT? The cats have heat shields round them, which can start to rattle when they corrode, you can remove them and shouldn't have any problems unless you park on dry grass a lot. I managed to remove the heat shield on my cat without removing them by just by jacking the car up, cutting through it with a dremel and pulling it off - I'm sure a garage could do this for you pretty cheaply if necessary.

Fairly certain the car is off - the battery dial would be much higher if the car was on.

https://www.calibrecarsales.co.uk/vehicle/nissan-350z-v6-2dr-in-colchester-essex-8f4ccece-4b31-4669-aaa8-aa3900d60041

You're right - I bought my HR last year for £8,000 - 94k miles, decent condition, gallery gaskets sorted, UpRev remapped and Cobra exhaust. For 10K you should definitely be able to get an HR with around 50-60K miles, which I would definitely choose over this one. In fact here's a stock HR with 44k miles for only £250 more: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201905077706313?year-from=2008&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=New&model=350 Z&advertising-location=at_cars&sort=sponsored&radius=1500&postcode=pe304yq&maximum-mileage=60000&make=NISSAN&page=1

All sorted now - removed the bracket from the top - clutch feels brilliant - would definitely recommend to every Zed owner!

Well I eventually sorted it by removing the metal bracket via the nuts on top - not an easy task (at first) but made replacing the pedal 100x easier - I would recommend doing this for anyone replacing the pedal. If you remove all the trim around the wheel - lower cowl, panel with the TCS controls on, gauge cluster & top plastic panel - a small opening is exposed through which you can put a 10mm socket + swivel joint + extension, then you can remove the bracket bolts from above. Takes a bit of wiggling, but you should be able to get your hand on the bolts from the other side to give you a good idea of what you are going for. I also spoke with Ryan from RJM Performance, who advised that you should be able to push the master cylinder through the firewall slightly, which then gives you enough clearance to pull the clutch pedal out - big thanks to him for some very helpful replies. Before he had a chance to reply I'd already removed the bracket so didn't get a chance to try his method. Finally all sorted, and the clutch feels great - when pulling off slowly at lights etc. you've got so much more control. The pedal also feels so light now (adjustable if necessary) that the next time I need a new clutch a heavier one will definitely be a possibility, as the pedal would make daily driving it much more manageable.

Hi mate, I'll take the sub & box - will PM you

I'm curretntly in the process of replacing my stock clutch pedal with the RJM performance one, but I'm really struggling to get the old pedal removed! I've got all of the bolts undone, but can't remove the pedal as there is a metal bracket in the way which is blocking the pedal. I've attached a photo of the metal bracket, normally it holds some kind of control unit in place which I have unplugged for now. Ideally I need to remove the bracket, but it's bolted in from the top down so that's not possible? Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

Thanks - I've found a youtube video where someone counts 5.5 full rotations so I'll go with that for now. On a different note - how the hell did you manage to get the clutch pedal past the metal bracket that holds some kind of control unit in place? The only way i can see to get it out without damaging the master cylinder is by removing the bracket, but I can't as the bolts are on the top of the bracket? See picture:

Thanks, do you recall how many 180 degree twists it took for you to remove the clevis from the stock position?

Quick question - if you've already adjusted the height of your clutch using this guide: How do you get the clevis height to be at the right level? It says to count the turns when removing and set it back to the exact same level, but I've already adjusted the retaining nuts height.

@Asad https://www.350z-uk.com/forum/212-350z-370z-z-emblems-accessories-sales/

Aerial Amplifier - bought used on ebay, but didn't help sort my radio reception so now I've got 2 - £20 (the amplifier works fine, problem was my head unit) Front door speaker (only got 1) - Free if anyone wants it. I've also got the other door speaker, but I hacked it to bits so I could use it as a template for my new speaker spacers. If anyone wants the plastic outer ring to make there own spacers let me know and you can have it for free so you don't have to ruin your own stock speakers.

I've not had much luck with the tool Ebized has - if the ball joint is quite large then you won't be able to line up the bolt with the ball joint, meaning it just slips off. I've bought a couple of different tools, and found this type to be the best so far: https://www.amazon.co.uk/NEILSEN-TOOLS-CT1578-JOINT-SEPARATOR/dp/B0044ZRTWE/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=BALL+JOINT+SEPARATOR&qid=1555969692&s=diy&sr=1-4 I haven't yet had to use it on the Zed though, but it seems to be the most universal solution.

Ah okay, a bit behind schedule then.

Any news on delivery yet?

Didn't realise I'd missed the deadline! If anyone can't make it please let know and I'll pay for your tickets (+1)

Duplicate post

I've just finished a speaker & amp install so might be able to give you a rough idea. I've got the exact same head unit as well. Yes you can just upgrade the speakers. You'll need to buy/make a set of spacers as the new speaker will be too deep to fit. I found that the stock spacer didn't fit my 6.5" speakers so I had to make my own out of MDF. The spacer needs to be at least an inch thick. To get the most out of it you will want to install an amp, otherwise you won't be utilising the speakers to their full potential. If you don't want to do that, I'd be tempted to bypass the Bose amp completely, meaning running wires from your head unit to the speakers. I put new wires in for the front speakers, which is a PITA as you have to drill holes in the plastic connectors that go through the doors. Once you know how to do it though it's pretty easy. The rest of the wires are very easy to run, just pop of a few panels, and tuck them all in, it's really not that bad of a job as long as you don't mind spending a weekend doing it.

Now making the speaker spacers: I bought 18mm MDF, but you need at least an inch thick to clear the window (depending on speaker depth). I plan on gluing the 2 together, and hoping 36mm isnt too thick it hits the door card

Nothing to heavy, my amp only puts out 200W RMS bridged @ 4ohms, so that limits my Sub choices fairly heavily. But the Zed is a pretty compact car so I don't really need anything large to get a lot of bass . Looking at this at the moment: https://www.amazon.co.uk/JL-Audio-10W0v2-4-Car-Subwoofer/dp/B002PY5EBY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=10"+subwoofer&qid=1554720920&s=gateway&sr=8-3 Thoughts? I also want to mount it in the stock sub location, I'll fabricate a box for this but I'm currently unsure on how to secure it properly.