Kryptek49

I've never really been into silver cars - but wow that looks great! Black wheels and windows really sets it off.

Not really - they're pretty friendly, but didn't bodge the test at all. My full exhaust set up is Torqen HFC, Miltek Y Pipe + Cobra Back Box. The car has been uprev remapped

Engine: HR 105k miles Cat type: Torqen HFC How old are the catalysts?: 6 months MOT test HC count: 18 MOT test CO % volume: 0.107 MOT test Lambda value: 0.998 

As they're fairly new to the market, I haven't seen to many mentions of the Torqen HFC passing MOT's. I've got them fitted to my HR and had my first MOT with them on today - they passed first time! I warmed the car up for about 30 mins before hand and did the emissions test first. I'm very pleased with them , if anyone's on the fence I'd say go for it! Sounds great too. Here's the emissions print out for anyone interested:

MOT just done - new expiry date is now 20/10/2020. Only advisory is the front brake lines are a little corroded (the ones between the caliper and the flexi hose), but not badly at all. A good opportunity to fit braided brake lines to the front and flush the brake fluid I reckon. I'll get this done next week. Still waiting on nice weather to get some decent photos, should be done this weekend.

Is it just me or is that really cheap? a 16k mile HR would probably sell for close to 10k on its own. Paying an additional 5k for twin turbos - and the mass of other upgrades - seems like a bargain.

7.5 is probably fair for a private sale then, considering brand new tyres and other bits. For sale post is up pending approval

Selling my 350z as I need a more economical car for the next year or so. I've only had the car for just over a year and would love to keep it, but unfortunately have to make the sensible choice. The car is the late HR version, which means more horsepower, twin air intakes and the obvious bonnet bulge. The trim level is GT, which includes heated seats, rays alloys, cruise control etc. I originally purchased the car from a forum member on here. Mileage has just ticked over 105,000. This may rise a bit more as I'm still using the car occasionally. The car has been brilliant while I've owned it, it's always run perfectly and the engine, gearbox & clutch are all still in great condition thanks to regular servicing. It's got an entire years MOT on it (expires 20/10/2020), there was only one advisory as the front brake lines were a tad corroded, so I've had these replaced already. Mods: Cobra back box Miltek Y Pipe Uprev remapped @ Abbey Motorsports (297whp/337bhp) Maintenance (recent/relevant): Gearbox & diff fluid changed @ 102,000 4 x Michel Pilot Sport 4 Tyres fitted @ 104,300 Front Wheel alignment @ 104,600 Nearside rear arch rust cut out & repaired @ 104,600 Nearside rear wheel bearing replaced @ 104,600 Oil last changed @ 101,000. I've changed it every 5k. Will be done once more before sale Brembo front & rear pads fitted @ 102,000 Gallery gaskets replaced by Abbey Motorsports Varta D47 Battery fitted April 19 Body work is in pretty good condition. It's got a couple small marks on it as expected for a 12 year old car, and has the usual stone chips up front which the Zeds suffer from. Any questions please let me know and I'll be happy to answer. Price is £7,000 Couple pics below - I will post up with some more recent/better quality ones once I've had a chance to clean the car and we get a bit of sun!

Haha it really does, I love the car but it's just not worth it for me right now. In a couple of years I'll probably come back to sports cars though. 4k is definitely to low for yours, are you thinking of selling it then or just going for a second car? I think I'll list mine for 7.5k and see how it goes. I've put a lot of money into it but I know you don't see much of that back when you try and sell. I'm definitely going for something a lot cheaper, in the sub £2k range probably. I'm not to fussed what I get just need something that's a cheap runabout over winter.

Out of my budget unfortunately! Zeds aren't anywhere near type R's in price

Thanks for that, very helpful - you really do your research! Car is a GT pack, yes with rays which could use a refurb. Overall it's a good car, hopefully people aren't put off by the higher mileage!

I've only owned the car for just over a year, but I'm seriously considering selling up as it's not a cheap car to run! I've recently bought a new motorbike and I don't need both at the same time unfortunately, I love the car but think the sensible option is to sell. My plan is to sell it and then buy a cheap VW golf as a winter run about while the bike is garaged. Does anyone mind giving me a rough valuation for the car? I bought it on 94k miles for £8,150 in July 2018. It's a 57 plate HR with 105k on the clock. Generally in decent condition, engine and gearbox still running perfectly. 4 new MPS4 fitted around 2 months ago, diff & gearbox fluids changed within the last 1,000 miles. Oil changed every 5k. I also paid £350 last month to get the rear arch rust sorted. Front end has the general stone chips. Mods are as follows: RJM Clutch pedal Torqen HFC Cobra backbox Miltek Y Pipe Uprev remapped (298hp at the wheels - very healthy figure, done at Abbey Motorsports) Gallery gaskets replaced by Abbey motorsports HKS air filters I've also upgraded the audio system and installed a new head unit but will probably put it back to stock before I sell. Unsure if the HFC's will stay on the car or not, probably depends on if it fails MOT on emissions next month. If you're interested please drop me a message, I'll post up this week probably with a for sale ad. Thanks all

Can't say I've ever heard that before! A lot less parts so a lot less servicing I would have thought. Old carbs are always fun though. Agree with all of the rest though

I think it depends how you do it. Lets saying training is £100 CBT + £600 DAS. Clothing can be fairly cheap, I got all mine for around £300-400. All branded gear bar the trousers which were still quality ones from Amazon. Helmets can really vary in cost, a Shoei can be £500+ but if it has the same safety rating as a £100 helmet then if you're on a budget the £100 one will do just fine. My first bike was a Suzuki GS500F. I paid £1,300 for it 2 years ago at 15k miles, and sold it last week for £1,150 w/ 24k miles on it. £150 depreciation over 2 years is great, especially when you consider how much the Zeds drop. If you can look at the bike cost itself as an investment, then you're really only spending £1.5k start up fees + £300 for tax and insurance. Then the following years its only the £300 that continues. Upgrading is always nice though!

Get a motorbike! I bought an 2011 SV650S w/ 21k miles last week for £2k - running costs are only £90 yearly road tax, £200 insurance, 60mpg. And to top that all off a 0-60 in under 4 seconds. It's great fun and also very practical. Might not be possible for everyone, but when you put the figures down like that it seems like a no brainer.

Sold

WhatsApp pictures won't load anymore unfortunately! We must have got mixed up between front and rear. Quite an easy repair thankfully

Threaded - just screws all the way on.

Okay I've just had a quick look at the parts I've got. My regular size head unit is 17cm x 10cm, and doesn't require the cover piece supplied with it as the fascia with the car covers it perfectly I've got this one: Head unit measurements photos: I also have a spare cover piece that came with the radio (as I didn't need it with mine) measurements are 18.5 x 11.5cm external, and 10 x 17.4cm internal Photo's of that too: Does this help at all? I didn't think you needed the above bracket at all.

Got it! Thanks all, it took a lot more force with a lump hammer than I expected. The previous owner had told me the nearside rear wheel bearing had been replaced just before sale. I think he must have got his sides mixed up as there's no way that thing had ever been removed before.

I'm trying to replace my rear passenger side wheel bearing. So far I've removed the caliper, brake disc & driveshaft, as well as the 4 bolts that hold the hub to the rear knuckle. Next step is supposedly as simple as just removing the hub, but mine is completely stuck in place, I've tried plus gas & hammering a flat head screwdriver into the edges of the hub, but it just won't budge. Anyone encountered this problem before and got any tips? Removing the rear handbrake assembly would help for access but I don't know if it's necessary? Photos of the stuck hub below

And it's done! Price went up a little bit from the quote as the inner arch required cutting too and they couldn't tell that from the outside obviously. Total price was £357 for the nearside rear arch, done by Steve Cato Classic Cars and Restoration. They're based in Tottenhill, Norfolk. Very happy with the work done and the price too, I'll post up some photos of the work later.

I think I've found the source of the poor handling now - the nearside rear wheel bearing is completely shot. Loads of play in it. Anyone recommendations on brands for rear wheel bearings?

Sorry I've decided to keep them, the colour has grown on me now and it makes the car a little bit different.

Prime day deals don't show up on CCC for some reason, but I can guarantee you that entire kit was £100 exactly, as I was so close to buying it as a gift for my brother but decided against it. There are always good Ryobi deals on prime day, but its a while away now.