G1en

Just looking at the pic and my 3 year old boy looks over my shoulder and says, “look dad, it’s broken, let’s get it fixed.”

Yes def different for DE @JAllen28 you can have it fella but collection from Pontefract or Ripon (work) All i was asking for was a small donation to the forum.

I have one for free but its a HR model type.

Gotta get me one of those shifters. looking good

Yes mate, yours looks much neater and more like a pro job. I suppose its easier when you stick to the same size pipe. With the cats and flexis i was going over and with no room to move under the car along with starting at the wrong end which i didnt realise was an issue until after it was never gonna be great. I guess at some point i may end up pulling it all off and doing again (bit like the bumper) do it once, screw it up, leave it a bit then do it right next time round. what i would say is it does seem to have given me a few extra bhp as at last event i was hitting rev limiter in places a good few metres before i ever have previously so definitely think it helps with both temps and getting the gases out quicker, just need to find out how long the bodge will last...

Update 06/09/2020 Just a small update as like for most people, Covid has ruined this year but at least we have our Zeds to put a smile on our faces. After last update and being bored with the standard engine cover I decided to buy some gold spray cans and give a touch of colour to the bay and try and make the shiney air boxes blend in a little more. It turned out ok and certainly captures the eye when i open the hood now. Is it ok to say hood, watching all this youtube content in lockdown has me fully americanised. I then had my first hillclimb event of the year at the beginning of August (finally) and while i was a little rusty it just about stayed dry all day and it was refreshing to stretch the cars legs, although i had taken it out for some spirited drives over the summer, its not the same as actually flooring it on a track. My times were a little off but very consistent, in the 65's all day with best being 65.64 and good enough for second in class (out of 13) During August I decided to have another go and painting the front bumper. I had rushed it far too quickly last time resulting in a shower of s6!t finish and it may be no show car anymore, it still needs to be presentable in the paddock. So bumper spray job part duex ensued and this time putting the base colour down as a mist, 3 light coats followed by one light clear coat, then 2 heavy coats of clear. left overnight to dry/cure. then wet sanded back with P800 and P1200 resulting in this: Then hand polished with a gtechniq hand polishing sponge, course side (white) with some scholl S3 compound i had left then the soft side (black) with some S40 for the finish. I opted to do by hand with plenty of elbow grease as the DA polisher was just not cutting it. It was taking 3 times as long to get the same results. Just confirming that DA machines may be great for finishing they are too "safe" for heavy cutting if required. Anyway final result was this, which for a diy job in the garage i was happy with, overall 6/10 rather than the 2/10 i had before. I did finish with my right bicep a good 1" bigger than my left counterpart: What I will add is that if like me, you decide to do this inside, cover everything. I masked up the floor in front and the engine bay and wheels behind but the overspray from the base coat and clear goes f-ing everywhere! literally, it gets where water can't. Luckily as the car is ceramic coated, the layer of whatever it is was sat on top of the paintwork so a quick snowfoam and wash afterwards cleared the mess, not sure how lucky i would have been if either the car paint was "bare" or i'd left it several days/weeks before cleaning. Next up was installing some bits i'd had lying around for months. If you have read this build from the beginning then apart from being in solitary confinement with only this to look at, you will know that I have had issues with the clutch fluid boiling. I put some heat sleeve on all the lines I could see running close to the cats (obviously the heat issue is made worse by the high flow cats not having heat shields like the OEM ones. I also wrapped the main clutch line in some gold tape i had left over from the air boxes and then (after this photo) cable tied where i needed to make sure everything stayed in placed. Then I had been umming and arring for a while on whether to put some heat wrap on the exhaust so just bit the bullet and went for it. I had 10mt of volcano wrap bought on E-bay. It doesn't state what volcano it comes from but i suspect its one in China!! This was only enough to do the CATS so i had to purchase some more from a local car shop. This was the standard fibreglass stuff which is all they had so i used that for the y-pipe and finished it off there, I think there is little point doing any further along, there may be little point doing any of the exhaust reading the internet but what the hell. I started the car and left it running for 15-20 mins to cure the wrap as per instructions. It does smoke a bit and stinks and you certainly have to open the hood if your stationary to let the smoke/fumes out. The next day i sprayed some high temp silicone spray over the wrap purchased from Demon-Tweeks which supposidly helps seal the exterior preventing moisture and dirt getting engrained into the wrap and causing corrosion. The problem I have is that i was doing this in the garage with car on axle stands, I barely had enough room to scratch my ar5e let alone install the wrap so it wasn't anywhere near as tight as it should be and I struggled to get it taught around the cats which chamfer out and in, I just had to do best i could and use lots of jubilee clips but there are still small gaps here and there so crap can get in. Worth noting i used white silicone spray so finish isn't the most aesthetically pleasing but it was the only colour in stock, you can get black and others if you prefer. While under the car i chose to put some underseal around the kidney brackets as like many, they were starting to rust even though i'd protected them previously, so out with the wire brush to scrape off the loose rust and brush on a heavy coat of underseal: I have just remembered, I paid another visit to Horsham sometime in the last few months to try and sort out an issue I had with the revs dropping and car spluttering around 2k revs. I also needed to get the car mapped again as i had also replaced the high flow cats and y-pipe courtesy of @buster in order to try and free up a few more ponies. It was after this install the car developed the problem with the revs (nothing to do with the exhaust) As usual for me I didn't take any photos at Tarmac HQ or Horsham but it was great to see Bob again and the guys at Tarmac for the first time, you don't need me to tell you, pay them a visit if you need anything for your Zed, likewise the guys at Horsham. Jez did manage to replicate the stuttering and put it down to the VVT controllers sticking which is a semi-common fault. He has managed to map most of it out and get me 2 extra BHP so its only evident in nuetral now but to fix it for good i am gonna need some used VVT bits from Zmanalex at £200 or new from Nissan at £2k I know which way i will be going. Fast forward to last week and it was the second event at Harewood, weather was the same as previous, dry but very cold for August (about 14 degrees) and very windy on the hill so it was never going to be a record setting day but nether the less on Run 2 I put in a flawless run to net a 64.61 Think this is third best ever so given the conditions and the fact the grip was just not there, i was chuffed, every corner on the run hooked up and i even managed to get the car launched semi-reasonable. I have just come to the conclusion that starting "normally" and feeding the throttle in over 2-3 seconds is quicker than any other method at Harewood. Overall I was second in class again (out of 12) missing out on win by 0.15 secs Car was looking good, just noticed I have also fitted some quick release bolts for front bumper as i was fed up cutting my hands getting into the wheel wells every month. Another quick mod although I cringed when i was drilling the wings (fenders if you like) I have actually done a fair bit looking back. Photo below of some of the class, including a fully stripped out GT4 Aston (that if it was a regular championship event I don't think would be in this class) And Finally last week, the family and I had a much needed break in Wales. I will leave you with the view from the top of our hill:

I know you can get a standard clear coat and then a 2k clearcoat which i used for my bumper. The 2k stuff is twice the price but supposed to be resistant to petrol/oil etc. (Well, as much as your oem stuff is) so it may be just crappy clear you have used, also i think you need to give clear a good day or so to cure before exposing it to the elements (Temp and humidity dependant) so possibly if you put it straight onto car that may have been an issue? just clutching at straws for you.

DM sent

Yes, will do. Will get you a couple of pics and message you at weekend to sort.

Definitely for HR, im near Leeds. i could arrange UPS if too far but would be an extra £10 to cover.

If you have a thermostatic sandwich plate i dont think the oil in the lines and cooler will drain anyway so just add the standard amount. This will then mix with the oil held in the oil cooler when next running engine upto temp.

I have a set lying around, cobra hfc’s only a couple of years old but cannot vouch for the “internal” condition. They did get through the last mot (just) yours for £100 if any use.

Yeah, im with msitpro sold mine when i put my polyurethane bumper on, they are an inconvenience at best anyway and most people on here detest using them as they spray washer fluid all over you bonnet as well as the lights, lets face it, if anyone leaves washing their car long enough for the headlights to need assisted washing aids then either they shouldn’t be responsible for a car or are probably driving illegally already as the number plate is lower and will be masked well before the headlights. i did read somewhere on here that it is part of mot that if fitted they should work, but we can take the “if fitted” literally and unfit them.

I’m with you Davey, its catch 22 with the zed exhausts, the flexis are the lowest point and first thing to hit the ground/speed humps but because they have some give they save the shock on the rest of the exhaust. Unfortunately they frey/crack/break after not too much impact so you have to replace the y section. If you went with a stillen y piece you eliminate this but then if you walloped that the shock/impact would travel to the next fixed point, in my case with aftermarket hfc’s that means its the manifolds which would never end well. I have just fitted a milltek y piece and this definitely sits at least an inch higher than my old cobra one did so should last a bit longer whilst still having flexis on as well.

No codes or engine light like you. Only happened when i was tootling along then floored the accelerator, it felt like the ecu didnt know what Fuel/air to use car spluttered for a second or two then the power got fed in, didnt do it when you slowly fed the power in although it did feel lacking on power overall. I started a thread on here recently with video attached. At idle and keeping foot on accelerator at 10/20% the revs slowly climb to 2k then drop before increasing again, you could check to see if yours does this. As i said above though, the remap has sorted mine and my issue was made worse by having tomei cams and new high flow cats. Goods news is Alex can save you a fortune on whichever part you may need if you go down the used replacement option.

Thats good to know Alex, its those round toothed parts at the bottom of the picture i think is my issue and what i was referring to above. Do you have any for a HR? think a HR has one for both intake and exhaust side where as the DE is just intake. not sure which one i need or if i need both?

Just had something similar to what you describe with mine. Took it to horsham and they diagnosed it (i may get this wrong) as a sticking valve? To do with the variable valve timing that connects to the end of the camshafts, they said it was fairly common and when it sticks the revs can drop then the cams are out of timing and the ecu tries to sort everything out resulting in the stuttering and loss of power and what seems like mis-firing. Good news is they mapped 90% of the issue out and my car drives much better now with all the power i had previously plus 2bhp more. bad news is a new replacement vvt bit costs £1000 upwards if i decide to “cure” the issue rather than mask it. I have probably explained that all wrong but like Alex says, one of the traders/tuners on here will be able to tell you the exact issue if you pay them a visit, does sound exactly like my issue though.

To the tuners and knowledgeable folk. After fitting new kinetex high flow cats and milltek y piece, the car has developed a very annoying lumpiness/hesitation when accelerating in certain gears/rpms. its like the ecu doesnt know what air/fuel mixture to use or throttle input is all wrong. It just kind of hangs for a second or two then feeds the power in. Not what i need for either general driving and certainly not on track when i get back to it. Link to video below, this was filmed on the driveway and throttle held steady in nuetral at only about 20%. You can see the revs drop slightly and hesitation just below 2k. My foot never moved on the pedal. Obviously this is magnified when im driving. Am i right in thinking this could be sorted with another re-map or could it be something else less/more expensive? car has been mapped twice but last time to the old hfc’s which horsham had said prob degraded hence me fitting new ones, i havent had the ecu light come on since either, it came on every week previously due to O2 sensors. car also has tomei high lift cams fitted. i have already tried an ecu reset, throttle position reset, idle reset, and cleaned maf sensors just in case but to no avail. thinking outside the box could it be the crossover from closed loop to open loop map and a relatively big difference in afr’s which has been magnifield by the new cats?

For the wheels, i would guess if you swapped them with someone for standard wheels and tyres or even the rays you could easily ask for £100-£150 per wheel your way so an extra £500 or so provided the condition of the wheels/tyres is of a similar ilk. As you say the lgmt’s are a very exclusive sought after wheel so even in need of a refurb they have a good value, if you plan on running the car moving forwards you might be as well sell them and let someone else enjoy them and refurb them to their requirements. if your thinking of selling the car, stick it on ebay with a reserve price, like you say, there may be plenty of punters that will want a “project” car for varying reasons. Ie if the rear arches are rusted, they may plan on cutting them out anyway for a wide body kit. Just be as honest as possible with the description and set the reserve to what your comfortable with. if you decide to keep it, and this is a left field suggestion, near to me (you would have to research colleges near you) there is a college that runs mechanics and bodyshop type courses and apprenticeships and they are always wanting cars to work on. They usually end up with scrap/mot failures that are gifted to them but they would relish a zed to work on, obviously if its your daily that would be an issue but getting your car sorted for free could be an option further down the line?

Found this online, offers “some” explanation https://www.lgo.org.uk/decisions/planning/other/16-004-729

There you go, as per alex. For the purpose of track days or sprints it will serve the purpose of having a visible toe point for recovery but i wouldnt ever use mine to tow another car or such like, i would always use the correct point, i take it this is more for looks though, yes.

I have my rear tow hoop connected there. Mine is a solid metal bracket with hoop on the end, it fixes with 2 bolts and washers through the hole On your pic and it has been used twice to pull me out of the gravel traps so whether its a legitimate toe point or not it certainly can be used. for what you have there you are gonna need a long bolt and nut with 2 square plate washers either side of the hole.

Horsham did say they thought the cats were degraded/blocking the flow. I may have to swap them over, i need a new y pipe anyway so could renew and see what that does. Thanks for the info

Yeah, in theory it should be fine. Its supposed to have an overcharge/undercharge safety cut off anyway so it wont charge above a certain voltage and cuts off to protect itself when it drops below a set voltage. The bonus is it displays the voltage when you press the button on it so will see how it goes