G1en

Cant say I pay much attention, just when i was searching for a cheap daily that had to be less than 5 year old for work, (and cheap) i googled fastest depreciating cars and the leaf was on every list (along with various Fiats and the pug 308/508) I got a 15 plate 308 for under 6k with 70k miles (20k list price new) A quick autotrader search shows you can get 15 plate leafs (with much much lower milage) for under 10k and i think they had a 25k list price new, still a big hit in the wallet for anyone im sure you will agree. My concern is that EV cars will replicate the mobile phone recent era. So honda/ford/vw whoever launch a 100 mile range car then 2/3 years later update it with a 200 mile version with better tech and options for not much more (due to battery tech and scale of production) which sees the previous generation prices plummit and no one wants them. Then another 2 years down line and its now a 400 mile range and self driving meaning the previous gen 2 model suffers the same fate and so on until it gets to a point like now with iphones whereas the “new” model released is only marginally better than the last and there is not as much demand or people wont pay the extra so keeping used prices high. It then finds a level cycle like we have had with combustion cars for so long until the next phase comes along, like flying cars, and the process starts again.

Nissan leafs plumit in value also over the first few years, one of the worst depreciating cars you can get, is there any evidence to say the model 3 or Honda-e is gonna be any different?

Welcome Darren, definitely come to the right place

Welcome

Welcome along didnt they do a V6 hyundai coupe? With abysmal power?

Welcome

I have buddyclub rails and seats. 99% sure the rails come with a threaded plate attached so you can just bolt the seatbelt receiver straight in with the same bolt you remove when taking it off stock seats. The car is hibernating in garage so cant check now but i cant remember having any issues at all when i fitted my bucket seats other than having to put some washers under 2 of the 4 floor pan connections as the rails just did not sit level out of the box.

Or get some “not volks” decals

@ZMANALEX should have some used led rear lights. I got my new replacement from clark motorsport. You will have to check if they can post to you

I can remember watching something on 5th gear a few years back where they tested different fuels in a golf gti (i think) and there was a few bhp and mpg difference between the standard unleaded and the premium offerings. They all varied by 1 to 5hp so they did make a difference but the average driver and car would never know. Obviously for racing it may make a tenth or 2 per lap difference swapping fuels but for everyone else its a marketing exercise to get more of your hard earned ££ that said i still put the most expensive fuel in whatever car i have as in my mind it will perform better, last longer and protect the engine so the marketing has hooked me and my walket in

Welcome along

When the garage did mine they used a dremel type air powered machine. It took a while, over an hour i think and they went through a fair few bits/attachments as its alloy your grinding and it soon wears down the bits and clogs them. Like you say its fairly tight for space but the guy just preserved and got there in the end.

Welcome along

I used the por15 stuff and bilt hamber dynax products. It took me 2 days at home on axle stands but that included a thorough job taking off skirts, bumpers, arch liners etc and fully cleaning/prep first. Great satisfaction when finished and you have complete peace of mind. I sell the dynax stuff plus more on the website.

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Give it some proper abuse (i mean red line shifting) for 10 mins and see if the oil temp goes up. If it doesnt you may well have an issue as the zeds usually get very hot, more so with no oil cooler. like you say, it cant be good long term for the oil or engine if it never gets upto specified operating temp. I dont know if 70deg is ok someone should be able to confirm.

Welcome along

Thats what the bilt hamber products are, just generalised it as underseal.

Yep, no dramas there, get your diff bush changed next time its in the garage. If you plan in keeping the car a while, i do an underseal kit from Bilt Hamber, easy to use and will help protect the parts more prone to rusting.

It may be a less complete version of the standard front cross member. See pic below of my ultra racing one (on right) if you took away the front part and extreme left/right overhangs the central 4 bolt holes are roughly in same position as your 4 fixing points. Although i would be suprised if it did replace this as the extreme wings hold the banana arms if i recolect.

Welcome along

Stick me provisional down for this Rob. Enjoyed it last year.

I would say your decision boils down to what you want the car to be to you. As someone who is more performance minded than asthetics I would blow your money on the best tyres. They are the single most “performance” upgrade you can do for the money. If you care more looks or functionality and don’t intend to stretch the car than get the cheaper tyres and whatever else you have your eye on.

from me too

No idea on the pic but welcome