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  1. The fuses are behind the clear plastic cover on the terminals, leading to the engine harness. I don't believe there is an easy way of replacing them.
  2. Your best bet is to order through Nissan directly, the fuses are the tricky part in these.
  3. I thought the OBD2 power was on all the time, even when the car is locked? Couldn't that cause some residual drain?
  4. Worth mentioning that depending on how far you push it, the rear end will fish tail in low grip situations, e.g. bad road camber, oil on road, wet surface, uneven road surface, even with VDC enabled. I'd definitely check the tyres first.
  5. I can't tell you the residual load, however my battery still started mine after a month of sitting; so one week is definitely unusual. Could be a residual load, could be the battery.
  6. You could just remove them as well, they aren't structural, just make sure the bolts on the W brace are secured tightly afterwards.
  7. Regarding the rust, did you have it cut out and a new piece of arch welded in, or did they just sand it back and body fill it? I know you'd need to cut out all the rust to stop it bubbling and coming back from experience.
  8. Shell Helix Ultra 5w30 with OEM Oil Filter works fine here, with occasional spirited driving.
  9. Have they checked for power steering leaks first? If it isn't leaking, I'd try a power steering fluid flush first.
  10. Hi, might be worth sending a PM checking if @ZMANALEX has any in stock.
  11. If it's not overheating (thought it could be because you said only both fronts showed the discolouration), it could also be an foreign fluid (could be as Glen said) that has spread on the discs. Get a clean rag and spray a little brake cleaner on it and lightly dab the disc to see if the discolouration goes away. Don't get any brake cleaner on the caliper or wheels, it will eat the paint away. Do this after the car has been sitting for an hour to cool down.
  12. Based on what you've said it looks like you've cooked the discs, possible if the brakes are not allowed to cool enough between each heavy braking cycle. They will still work, but are a lot more likely to crack and warp under heavy braking; they need replacing. Change the pads with the discs, always, then drive and brake gently for the first hundred miles.
  13. Leaking bushing or strut perhaps? Have you had a look under the boot liner if anything has leaked in there?
  14. Get some brake fluid ready and make sure to test the brakes too, you don't want to be stuck on the side of the road with a seized caliper, or worse still have a line blow and have no brakes, might need a few gentle brake runs to clear off any residual rust on the discs, then give it a few emergency stops on a safe road. Mushy/weak pedal and the calipers need bleeding.

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