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Is yours the standard DE, RevUp, or HR?

Been a while since I last posted, but having another look - there is a difference between the arms as well - the recessed portion where the ball joint sits is deeper on the pre-facelift as on Conceptz links below - this means you will need to buy a matching arm as well for full compatibility: https://conceptzperformance.com/centric-stoptech-centric-oem-replacement-54501-am601-front-lower-control-arm-lh-03-04-nissan-350z-infiniti-g35-622.42846_p_29631.php https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-nissan-oem-54501-am602-front-lower-control-arm-link-lh-nissan-350z-05-08-z33_p_4547.php I'm assuming most of the discount eBay arms are for pre-facelift. Checking Nissan EPC also shows pre-facelift is 54501-AM601, facelift is 54501-AM602.

Crazy level of engineering went into the build.

Madness, probably one of the most ambitious projects for Z33, next to Sasha's hybrid Z. Massive props to you.

I'm assuming the arm (red) needs to match the thread of the ball joint (green).

Hey all, Got a quick question about the lower control arm on the facelift Z. Need a replacement arm as the bushing is going bad on this one. Had a look around and can see the most common option available are arms for pre-facelift. From my brief research, the ball joint thread is a different thickness between the two? Assuming I have two options, I can find a facelift arm and should just bolt in with no issues, other option is to buy a pre-facelift arm with ball joint and replace both? Would appreciate any advice, cheers!

Best way to find out the quality is to let the tuners look at it, actual practical results instead of hearsay. With the launch of this one, there will be 3 now, V Power, Momentum and Esso Supreme+. I am still gutted that Costco stopped the 99 RON, always used to fill up with that.

This sounds fantastic, you should talk to some of the UK traders to see if they want to put orders in to resell in the UK.

Most insurers should be OK with salvage cars, however the market value may be lower than expected. With Cat S cars, the damage is there, even if it isn't visible, so make sure it gets inspected properly as it may well need jigging / welding work done.

Tyres, tyres, tyres!

While it is nice to use the entire rev range of an engine, most people won't dare take it past 3K RPM, so the power is needed down low. Diesels are quite good for this, and this is also why there are a lot of small turbocharged engines - emissions is another reason of course. Automatics partly solve this problem by taking away the control of the rev range from the driver.

Depends on how light they can make it, got to remember it is also sporting a 3.0 TT engine, so not a huge amount of headroom to ensure long term reliability / servicing. Could probably eek out an extra 50 BHP from factory, but then you'd have R35 maintenance costs. What I'm more interested in finding out, is the drag coefficient of the new design compared to the 350Z and 370Z.

I can see that buying a new 370z from a dealership and slapping some turbos on would make for a much more powerful alternative. There is no replacement for displacement, if this is the 3.0 TT engine. That Nismo (render?) looks really good though.

Welcome, very clean

Might be worth mentioning just in case, that many aftermarket ones won't fit with the OEM W brace plastic covers. You don't need the plastic covers though, so don't worry about them.

Hi, have messaged you, thanks. Hi, appreciate the offer, Chester is a little far for me unfortunately given current situation. GLWS though,

Sounds like blockage/debris in the clutch line to me, first thing I'd do is a flush, and if you replace them, replace both cylinders.

The fuses are behind the clear plastic cover on the terminals, leading to the engine harness. I don't believe there is an easy way of replacing them.

Your best bet is to order through Nissan directly, the fuses are the tricky part in these.

I thought the OBD2 power was on all the time, even when the car is locked? Couldn't that cause some residual drain?

Worth mentioning that depending on how far you push it, the rear end will fish tail in low grip situations, e.g. bad road camber, oil on road, wet surface, uneven road surface, even with VDC enabled. I'd definitely check the tyres first.

I can't tell you the residual load, however my battery still started mine after a month of sitting; so one week is definitely unusual. Could be a residual load, could be the battery.

You could just remove them as well, they aren't structural, just make sure the bolts on the W brace are secured tightly afterwards.

Regarding the rust, did you have it cut out and a new piece of arch welded in, or did they just sand it back and body fill it? I know you'd need to cut out all the rust to stop it bubbling and coming back from experience.

Shell Helix Ultra 5w30 with OEM Oil Filter works fine here, with occasional spirited driving.