ilogikal1

Have you suffered a blow to head? You used tshould be quite sensible... well more sensible than THAT anyway!!

Jay and Silent Bob Strike Back was pretty awful. Clerks II wasn't great either but maybe not quite bad either I suppose. Also a huge Kevin Smith fan. Sometimes it concerns me just how much I agree with you, Dan.

There's no (or as close as makes no difference) pressure in space, so why would it change shape?

No, it really won't I'm afraid. Top coated leather; moisturiser never comes in contact with the leather, therefore does nothing but attract dirt, which only encourages wear, and empty your wallet.

Or more free time. One of those two things.

I agree. Clearly that proves the earth is flat. I can see Ireland in both pictures and my vantagepoint didn't change.

George RR Martin documented the same thing. That's confirmation, people!

^^^^ which also comes ilogikal1 approved

Any non-alkaline shampoo will be fine, which pretty much just excludes Bilt Hamber that I'm aware of. Coatings are fine with pH neutral or acidic substances but alkalis weaken them. No need for anything fancy unless you want to top up the protection, in which case Bathe+ (free delivery on all orders from Polished Bliss, you can't much more local than delivered to your door!) would be my go-to.

To get rid of the light scuffs and start to tackle the deeper ones, attack it with a magic sponge first off. Depending on how deep they are, you may never get rid of them totally though. To dress it after that, you can use a dye like Stu suggests, or I prefer something like Nanolex Rejuvenator or Gyeon Trim to restore and protect.

Well it must be awesome if even Clarkson loves it...

Because of the string. Obviously.

With a really long bit of string...

Or, you know, what they actually said about the health and safety restrictions of racing with batteries that they can’t comply with at the moment. Just a thought.

Isn’t there a dedicated thread for EVs?

But what about his car? F’nar, f’nar.

For towing, you want torque. Dodge Viper is the only sensible option...

As Dan says, the prep work is worth more than the coating. Subsequently that's going to be the expensive bit and it will depend on the state of the paint going in as to how much work that will require. As for a coating, it depends entirely on what coating you're going for. You can go for something like Gyeon CanCoat for £30 with enough to do the car several times over, or you can pay £150+ just for materials for an accredited detailer to do something much better for you. And that's just one brand. Without polishing first, you're looking at a good 3-6 hour's labour + materials. I've used a few coatings myself but never paid anyone else to apply one for me, but then I'm quite confident to do these things myself. If you're less confident, it's definitely worth getting someone who knows what they're doing to do it for you but if you fancy having a go yourself it's really not that difficult - just understand the instructions, stick to them and work methodically.... and spend hundreds of pounds on new microfibre cloths instead. Oh, and you'll need somewhere indoors to work too!

Reminding people that you're just guessing, at best, is useful to some!

If it's released here in 2019. And if they actually release it here at all. And if they follow the same pricing strategy. And if the "EV grant" is still the same amount by then. And if the "EV grant" is even still a thing if any of that happens. Or to actually answer the question; nobody knows yet (or if, for that matter - GZ's favourite assumption).

They're worth £10m+ now, I think this guy owned his, and when these prices were given to him, when they were still going for ~$1m. Worth considering it's also American prices that have been quoted (... I mean obviously they're budget car over here and all! ), but there was only 2 places in the US that can service an F1 and neither of them were actually McLaren. I'd be interested to see how those costs compare to say the P1 GTR LM running costs these days actually, particularly given his comments on the cost of replacing tyres on the F1!

...or the desire to.

As Coldel says, stone chips are par for the course due to the shape of the car I'm afraid. The hardness of the paint won't stop that, and having softer paint doesn't make much of a difference to stone chips - it's usually more minor damage such as susceptibility to marring & RDS than impact damage like stones. New paint may take a few weeks/months to fully cure, but that will depend entirely on the paint and methods used from what I understand (I don't know as much as I should about putting paint on, I'm more used to taking it off ), so PPF is the best option for preventing chips once the paint is fully cured. With applications these days they can be fairly invisible for a good few years, but of course you very much get what you pay for.

I'll take that as my cue to chime in. Yep, the paint used on Z's is very soft, so you'll find you don't need anything particularly abrasive to correct. My personal preference is Scholl S20 & S30+ for a 2 stage polish on Lake Country Hydro-Tech pads (tangerine & crimson) on a DA. A very viable alternative would be Menz polishes (PO203/2500 and PO85RD/3800), the oiliness works well on soft paint but the Scholls are better.

If your hands are full of children/shopping/etc, how can we be expected to use a door handle to open a car door? Surely all cars should come with self opening doors upon sensing movement within, say, 3 feet of the car. Y'know, because opening your own door is such a pain and all.