ilogikal1

1993 L reg Suzuki Vitara Fatboy soft top, with illegal tints on the front windows and illegal number plate font parked outside of Pindi Autos.

Suzuki Vitara

VW Karman Ghia?

That's the one.

Nope.

Lotus Carlton.

Does this help?

No.

Well it did take 3 years.. .

Following on from the full test in my other thread Here's a summary version of the fallout remover test that I conducted. The concept is simple; One product is applied to, and allowed to work on a surface - for this test I will be using them all on wheels, The surface is then rinsed, Then a second product is applied to and allowed to work on the same surface. Meanwhile the opposite is conducted on a separate surface to provide a control. The product that, when applied to surface second, picks up the greater amount of fallout is announced the winner and proceeds to the next "round" whilst the losing product is eliminated from the test. The theory is that if a product works well, the next one shouldn't have anything to react to, ergo the stronger the reaction of the secondary product, the weaker the primary was. The test continues until only one product remains. Whilst not an exhaustive list of available products, I intend to use as many as I feasibly can. Some products were added at a later stage, the timing of their appearance in the test should not be taken as indicative of their performance. The products used throughout the test will be; AM Details AM Iron Auto Finesse Iron Out AutoBrite Direct Purple Rain 2.0 Bilt Hamber Korrosol Car Chem Revolt Car Pro Iron X Car Pro Iron X LS (Lemon Scent) Car Pro Iron X Snow Soap Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller GTechniq W6 Gyeon Iron Koch Chemie pH Balanced Wheel Cleaner Nanolex Wheel Cleaner and Iron Remover OCD Finish Purple Haze Poorboys World Iron Remover Wolf's Deironizer "Decon Gel" In all cases, the surface in question was washed prior to the fallout removers being applied. Products were selected in no particular order. Preliminary round Nanolex Wheel Cleaner and Iron Remover Whilst designing the format of this test, Nanolex Wheel Cleaner was tested against an old version of another product in this test. As this old product is no longer available on the market, it has not been named here, but this test essentially determined the format for the following rounds. Think of this as a qualifier round. Both products were applied to separate wheels and allowed to work for 5-6 minutes. Both wheels were rinsed clean. Nanolex was then applied to the wheel that had previously been treated with the other product and after 5 minutes there was little sign of any reaction. The other product was then applied to the wheel that had previously been treated with Nanolex and picked up several areas and numerous spots. Therefore, Nanolex Wheel Cleaner and Iron Remover is eliminated. Round 1 Auto Finesse Iron Out vs. Wolfs Deironizer "Decon Gel" Both products were applied to separate wheels and allowed to work for 7-8 minutes. Iron Out starts to react faster than Deironizer. taking around a minute to react compared to the 21/2 minutes of Deironizer. Both wheels were rinsed clean. Deironizer was then applied to the wheel that had previously been treated with Iron Out and after 8 minutes there was little sign of any reaction away from the iron wheel weights. Iron Out was then applied to the wheel previously treated with Deironizer and after 8 minutes there were a number of spots reacting across the surface. Auto Finesse Iron Out progresses. Round 2 AM Details AM Iron vs, Koch Chemie pH Balanced Wheel Cleaner Both products were applied to separate wheels and allowed 5-6 minutes to work. AM Iron reacted more quickly than Koch Chemie (<1 minute compared to 3 minutes). Both wheels were rinsed clean. Koch Chemie was then applied to the wheel previously treated with AM Iron and after a further 5 minutes had not reacted to anything on the surface at all. AM Iron was applied to the wheel previously treated with Koch Chemie and after 5 minutes had picked up a significant amount of iron across the surface. It should be noted that there is a fair bit of discussion about Koch Chemie's offering; some people, including Koch Chemie themselves, claim that it is a fallout remover whilst others, including Koch Chemie themselves, state that it is not a fallout remover at all. That is not a typo. AM Details AM Iron progresses. Round 2.1 Due to low stock of AM Iron the loser from the round one, Wolfs Deironizer, was then immediately applied to both wheels from Round 2 (after the round two products were rinsed off) and after 5 minutes Deironizer was showing significant reactions on both wheels. Therefore Koch Chemie and AM Iron were eliminated. Round 3 Gyeon Iron vs. Car Chem Revolt Revolt is a typical fallout remover smell whilst Iron has a sweeter hint to it - make no mistake though, it's by no means pleasant still, the difference is akin to a rotting corpse versus a rotting corpse with a Battenberg cake in it's pocket (specifically a Batternberg cake, because that's the undertone scent of Iron, by the way). Both were applied to separate wheels and allowed 6-7 minutes to work. Both reacted quickly, within 15 seconds. Both wheels were rinsed. Gyeon was applied to the wheel previously treated with Revolt and after 6-7 minutes had picked up one small spot. Revolt was then applied to the wheel previously treated with Gyeon and after 6-7 minutes had picked up considerably more spots and a small area across the surface. Car Chem Revolt progresses. Round 4 GTechniq W6 vs. Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller W6 is a typical rotting corpse scented fallout remover whilst Ferrous Dueller is a much more pleasant, sweet scent - it's not going to double up as a air freshener but it's more pleasant to get a whiff of than others in this test. You know the routine by now, both given 5 minutes to work, rinsed, swapped, given another 5 minutes to work. On the second application Ferrous Dueller immediately picked up several spots. As did W6. After 5 minutes Ferrous Dueller picked up the greater amount, both in terms of number of spots and area covered by said spots. Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller progresses. Round 5 CarPro Iron X vs, CarPro Iron X LS CarPro currently offer no fewer than 4 (FOUR!!) fallout removers in their range; Iron X, Iron X Paste, Iron X LS and Iron X Snow Soap. I don't care about Paste. At all. So I didn't buy any of that. Iron X Snow Soap has interested me slightly, more on that later. CarPro claim Iron X LS (Lemon Scent) has "no more harsh odour with equal power of decontamination as you have come to expect from Iron X Classic". Classic retains the typical horrendous smell whilst LS is indeed lemon scented with undertones of peroxide. The usual routine was followed with 5 minute work times. Upon second application LS picked up various areas, whilst Classic... also picked up various areas. "Equal power of decontamination" indeed! More rinsing occurred followed by a second swap and a third application - LS was applied to the wheel which started with LS then had Classic applied whilst Classic returned to its original wheel as well. LS reacted instantly but as the 5 minutes went on it dropped off without picking up any specific spots. Classic on the other hand reacted almost immediately but didn't drop off and was picking up two or three specific spots. Application numbers 4 (LS) & 5 (Classic) then followed on one of the wheel and each time there was significant reaction. On the other wheel, previously treated with Classic, then LS, then Classic again, I used Nanolex Wheel Cleaner and Iron Remover. The reaction was significant after 5 minutes. CarPro Iron X (Classic) progresses on a technical win. Round 5.1 CarPro Snow Soap vs CarPro Iron X Snow Soap is a slightly different product than your typical fallout remover in that it is marketed as a snow foam that removes fallout and a shampoo that removes fallout and a dedicated fallout remover and a clay lubricant that removed fallout, depending on how you car to use it. Due to only having a sample size I opted to test it as a shampoo that removes fallout. Therefore a various to the standard routine occurred and this was tested on a dirty wheel, testing both cleaning ability and decontamination ability. CarPro advise dilution of up to 8:1 for use as a fallout remover, so I made up a solution at a lower dilution of 6:1. Upon application I attempted to note any "bleeding effect" from Snow Soap, but because the solution is the same colour as the bleeding effect anyway it was very difficult to tell, therefore I assumed no coloured indicator of it working. IT also stinks like typical fallout removers, which makes it incredibly unpleasant to use as a shampoo. It's reasonably well lubricated, not the best but far from the worst. Snow Soap was applied, agitated and washed off, then decontamination ability was checked with a dedicated fallout remover, Iron X. Iron X was allowed 5 minutes to work and it picked up a significant number of specific spots and areas across the surface. Enough for me to conclude that Snow Soap does little-to-nothing in decontamination stakes. CarPro Iron X progresses. Round 6 CarPro Iron X vs Bilt Hamber Korrosol A return to the standard format; separate wheels, 5 minute work time, rinse, swap wheels, 5 minute work time. Korrosol has a very sweet scent. I wouldn't go as far as to say it's a nice smell, but compared to Iron X it absolutely delightful! I Also like the standard Bilt Hamber spray head too as the spray pattern is in the Goldilocks zone; just right to achieve maximum spread without atomizing the product so much that it's blown away by the merest of breezes. Upon second application, Iron X picked up 2 or 3 spots in corners of the spokes. Korrosol picked significantly more across the whole surface. Bilt Hamber Korrosol progresses. Round 7 Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller vs Bilt Hamber Korrosol Standard format, 5 minute work time. Upon second application, Korrosol reacted almost immediately (within seconds) to various spots and after 5 minutes had picked up a fair amount, both general areas and specific spots across the surface. Ferrous Dueller picked up absolutely nothing even after 5 minutes. Bilt Hamber Korrosol progresses. Round 8 Bilt Hamber Korrosol vs OCD Finish Purple Haze Standard format with a strict 7 minute and 8 second (ish) work time. Upon second application after 5 minutes, Korrosol picked up a dozen or so spots across the surface. Purple Haze on the other hand picked up a dozen or so spots across the surface. But we can't have a draw so I went for another round of each. Korrosol picked up a few small spots. Purple Haze picked up nothing. For good measure I swapped the around again and completed a fourth application, during which Purple Haze did nothing again and Korrosol did... nothing either. Bilt Hamber Korrosol progresses. Round 9 Auto Finesse Iron Out vs AutoBrite Direct Purple Rain 2.0 Standard format, 5 minute work time. Upon second application Iron Out picked up several areas and dozens of specific spots. Purple Rain 2.0 picked up nothing at all. AutoFinesse Iron Out progresses. Round 10 Bilt Hamber Korrosol vs Auto Finesse Iron Out Standard format, 6 minute work time. Upon second application Korrosol reacted almost immediately finding several areas, Iron Out found two or three small spots. Bilt Hamber Korrosol progresses. Round 11 Car Chem Revolt vs OCD Purple Haze Due to a close run competition between Purple Haze and Korrosol I decided to give Purple Haze a second run out (and prolong the test). Standard format, 9-10 minute work time. Upon second application, Purple Haze picked up 3 or 4 specific spots in a couple of small area of the surface, Revolt picked up a fair amount more across the whole surface. Car Chem Revolt progresses. Round 11.1 It should be noted that during this application Revolt was a sample size bottle with a mini spray head. To eliminate that as a variable I repeated the test on different wheels having decanted the remaining Revolt into the previous full size bottle with standard spray head. During this retest, upon second application Purple Haze picked up one or two small spots, Revolt picked up several small areas and a number of specific spots across the surface. Car Chem Revolt progresses. Round 12 Bilt Hamber Korrosol vs Poorboys World Iron Remover Standard format, 8-10 minute work time. Upon second application, Korrosol picked up a fair number of specific spots and several areas across the surface. Poorboys picked up a couple of small spots across the surface. Bilt Hamber Korrosol progresses. Which brings us the to final round. The Final Bilt Hamber Korrosol vs Car Chem Revolt Well, to complete the test prior to the big reveal, this is what both looked like after 10 minutes; "Product A" on Wheel 2; Compared to "Product B" on Wheel 1 after 10 minutes; And whilst I was taking those photos, "Product A" was still working away (this is after 13-14 minutes on Wheel 2); For me, that's a conclusive win for Product A, but you guys can make your own mind up. The result "Product B", a worthy runner up that will do a better job than almost anything else on the market (by which I mean "in my test") was; Meaning that the winner, and the best fallout remover from a lot of other fallout removers, is Car Chem Revolt! Car Chem Revolt takes the victory.

Nope and nope. Going in the right direction though!

Erm... Miracles may have happened... ish! So, after curing overnight, the wipes have actually impressed me after all. It's evident that Wipe 1 is essentially little to nothing more than an IPA wipe and does nothing but prep the surface for the coating. Which does all the work. All of it. Okay, so it's not as good as polishing, but it's 90% there once the coating is cured. I'd liken it to light swirling on paintwork - 98% of the world wouldn't notice but for that 2% it's enough to be imperfect. If you're looking for a quick fix and you're not striving for perfection, the wipes will do a reasonable job. The caveat being that the coating wipe requires no moisture or humidity to work well - to the extent that the "no contact whilst curing" rule is because of the moisture in your skin! So for best results it needs a manageable environment for the curing period; i.e. indoor application only. It was difficult to capture on camera because of the lighting - in the sun was too bright, in the shade I couldn't pick up the correct angle to show the difference. It's noticeable in person, but I refer back to the light swirling analogy. Bottom right corner is the unpolished section and that's not a shadow on the lens; Roughly in the middle - more evident on the right side; And this shows the hazing that's still present on the bottom section which wasn't polished. The polished section is towards the top. And you can just see a difference here if you're looking for it; It's an improvement over how it started, but it's not perfect. And in that last picture you can also see where the tape line was for the coating wipe. I'm now more confident that it's added some protection given the physical evidence I now have, although durability is TBC. Some finished photos then - Mohs has been applied, but is still curing at the moment. And the overall finished product; Meanwhile on the other headlight, the one that was polished, there's a definite tape line where the two coatings meet so it should be fairly easy to keep track of what's working and what isn't; I'll leave it to you to decide if it's worth the extra 10% for polishing or not. Durability/UV protection will be updated as & when I remember to.

Well that narrows it down to every British manufacturer then. Is it the imaginatively named (given the clue) Austin Atlantic?

Pretty sure it's just coincidence; it's named after Friedrich Mohs who developed the Mohs scale of mineral hardness - considering Gyeon's pride at it being the hardest coating on the market with 9h hardness. It's also actually called Mohs Q2, so whilst Mohs can be read as Show on the bottle it doesn't make any sense with the Q2, so I doubt it's intentional at all.

I find the spot pads tend to wear faster than the larger pads... or that might be the other way around. It's been a while since I've used them, I can't remember which ones I've replaced more now. One was definitely better than the other, I know that much! I did find the orange CP pads wear quicker than then tangerine HT pads though, usually around the edges where I'd end up with chunks missing out the side of the CP pads by the end. I don't recall having that with the HT pads yet though.

Quick fix; buy a new car with clear headlights. That's one of my old stock of pads that hasn't quite given up yet, my new stock is the Hydro Tech pads - solely because Polished Bliss switched but actually recommend them having used them myself, they're a worthy alternative. I just happened to find this pad first today.

Nope, I'm not sure of anything when it comes to a company that I still have no idea how to pronounce!

Before I do that though, I had another test to conduct first. One that @Ekona is particularly interested in and relates to this thread. To prep for this test I proceeded to wash the whole car; foamed with Car Chem Snow Foam (petrol cap, badges, etc were also APC'd and agitated with a boar's hair brush at the same time as the foam), then washed with Car Chem 1900:1 shampoo. Specifically this one; It's amazing how long a litre bottle will last when you use just 12ml per wash (and for those wondering, yes I really do only use 12ml of Car Chem shampoo to a full bucket); After the physical wash, the car was decontaminated with fallout remover (for some reason I seem to have a lot to use up...) - Korrosol in this case because I don't have enough Revolt left to do an entire car. Then de-tarred using Tardis. The headlights were also clayed (with an old school clay bar and everything!) to properly prep for the following test. These eventually arrived from ECP. In this condition. Fortunately all the contents were still present so it was okay. For those interested in what these actually contain, this is the extent of that detail; So death. And this. The test is simple but two fold; firstly, how well it clears up hazy headlights compared to actually polishing (more accurately, whether it's worth going to the extra effort to polish). Secondly how well it protects compared to nothing, GTechniq C5 and Gyeon Mohs. Because I have a little bit of both of those left over and no idea what else to do with those amounts! Surprisingly they're both still liquid after whenever the last time I used them was (they shouldn't be, they're both considerably older than their prescribed shelf life once opened!). The contents are 2x Step 1 Cleaning wipe, 1x Step 2 Protection wipe, 3x identical instruction sheets. Part One then, clearing up hazy headlights. Starting with this; I then taped up - the bit on the headlight lens was just to help focus the camera on the surface of the lens, it was removed before polishing/wiping began! On the above picture, I will be polishing the left headlight (driver's side) and wiping the right (passenger side) headlight. So some before pictures. The passenger side headlight, to be wiped; And the driver's side, to be polished; I then donned my gloves (because death in wipe form) and spent 30 seconds or so thoroughly wiping the passenger side headlight. After drying with a cloth, it looked like this; I then spent about 30 seconds or so polishing the driver's side headlight with Scholl S20 Blue on a tangerine Lake Country Constant Pressure spot pad with the DAS-6 on speed 5 with no extra pressure (just the weight of the machine). After buffing the polish (I didn't do an IPA wipedown because... well, frankly I forgot. Oops.) it looked like this; Much better than the wipe! Which still looked like this; I then decided it'd be a good reference point to have a small polished section on the wiped headlight, so I taped up more; And spent 12 seconds (literally, 12 seconds) polishing just the top left corner - I intentionally chose an area that will be the most exposed to direct sunlight by the way. Which produced this difference (which is even more evident in person); I then sectioned off a bit at the top for Part 2 of the test, so that I can have a section with no protection on, a section with the wipe protection on and a section with a coating (Mohs in this case) all on one headlight, side by side... by side. Mohs will take the top section, the tape line will remain unprotected with the wipes taking the rest of the headlight. After taping up again I used the second Step 1 Wipe on the bottom section again to eliminate the polish affecting the Step 2 Wipe at all. Meanwhile I taped up the driver's headlight so I can have C5 and Mohs sitting side by side - C5 on the left as you look at it, Mohs will be on the right. Due to curing times (the wipes need 4 hours to cure with no contact, C5 and Mohs will both need similar curing times) I've only applied C5 so far, with Mohs going on both headlights tomorrow - on the driver's headlight I will move the tape so that C5 & Mohs are sitting side by side with no gap). Now I did notice that the polish line was much less noticeable immediately after applying the Step 2 wipe on the passenger side, this could be because the surface was still wet, it could be because the Step 2 Wipe is actually the one that does all the work. I'll confirm and get photos tomorrow when it's cured, but as mentioned it needs 4 hours with no contact so I will allow it to cure before sticking a bit of tape to it to get photos. First impressions of the wipes; Step 1 Wipe smells a bit detergenty and didn't seem to do a great deal so I suspect this is merely a cleanse wipe to prepare the surface for the Step 2 Wipe. The Step 2 Wipe smelt very white spirity but until it's cured I've got no comment on that yet. Personally I'm still sceptical, and it really isn't any quicker than polishing. In fact, aside from slightly less set up time, it's not even any less effort than polishing and the above demonstrates that unless the Step 2 Wipe works miracles it's nowhere near good enough to satisfy me... although I appreciate I may be somewhat more demanding than other people on this front. Further update on the tidying up on hazy headlights to come tomorrow. So Dan, pending overnight miracles, polish them mate!

Can't say fairer than that, thanks! I'll see what I can do.

A lifetime supply of Revolt seems a fitting reward... I would have considered dropping them a message with a link to the test if it wasn't spread over so many pages with other stuff interspersed - more for feedback for them rather than getting anything from them though. At one point I was thinking of adding an Index to the first post, but I ran out of motivation long before I ran out of pages to index. So I didn't. I might still do a summary thread still, keeping the tests in this one but summarising the results in a separate, easier to digest thread. Having said that, I might also still get my wheels refurb'd, so probably don't rely on that happening... Having just re-read through that thread, I haven't changed my opinion on much on there from 2015 actually (I can't even begin to imagine the number of "must have" fads that have hit the market in that time which just haven't lived up to their hype!). I'd upgrade the coating to Synchro, change the glass sealants/coatings now and add Gyeon Foam to the BH/CC snow foam offerings, but otherwise everything else stands still.

My pleasure (apart from the smells!), it's always nice to be able to prove that products I've recommended in the past work well. Quite surprised by the gap between Korrosol and Revolt though, I expected it to be much closer than that! Car Chem FTW. Always conducted in the shade wherever possible, which extends the work time, I've found that drying out isn't too much of an issue (provided it's for no more than a few minutes), it's baking on in sunlight that causes problems. I did have an issue with AF Iron Out drying out quite quickly in direct sun (in warm but not especially hot temperatures if I recall correctly) but the others I used in direct sun weren't as bad. I'd definitely encourage working in shade wherever possible and rinsing as soon as it starts to dry out (it's not going to be doing anything by that point anyway!) I'd still keep a close eye on it on paint, but I wouldn't have an issue leaving it that long, or longer, if it wasn't drying out before that. They do. I don't have an excuse except a complete lack of arsed. But I've only had the car for about 6 years, you gotta give me some time....