ilogikal1

If you’ve got FK and you’re happy to apply that, go for that. It’ll last the month without too much trouble. That said, WetCoat is so quick and easy to apply, gives a lovely glossy finish and will last a good few weeks on its own. It’ll also bond over the FK so personally I’d do both and guarantee seeing the month out easily.

...but it’s okay, because on here we get regularly reminded that no one’s ever interested in VED costs when buying a car like this. Ever!

Almost this. Get someone decent to do a full and proper job on it, stump up for a ceramic coating. Wash it yourself for 2-5 years. Repeat as desired. The latest top-of-the-range Gyeon coatings should last towards 60 months and, when applied by certified detailers, come with an up-to-5 year warranty (some... 'questionable' terms & conditions apply, naturally). I wouldn't polish more than once a year anyway (let alone paying for someone else to do that) and if you're not into your detailing there's little point in claying regularly either, not least of all because that'll just mean having to polish more often. Unless you have a lot of money to throw away, there's also a lot of better options than to get someone to slap on some wax once a month too.

Pressure washer is fine, not essential but than not (when used properly as Stu says). Jet wash at your local petrol station, with the brush attached, is not!

I know, those pesky Englanders go around making out like they invented the game or something....

Wash: 2 buckets - go anywhere but detailing shops for these. Even Halfords will do on this occasion. Microfibre washmitt/pad (depending on preference). Gyeon Bathe+. If you live in an area with hard water and waterspotting is enough to bother you then then cheapest option is a drying towel (Polished Bliss per the below), otherwise a water filter (Daqua)if less effort is more important than budget. Glass cleaner - GTechniq G6 or Car Chem Glass Cleaner from @G1en@waxandshine Wheels - Get your valeter to protect them properly and just use shampoo and water to clean. Cloths - just get this http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb-towel-bundle-cat1.html which covers everything you'll need on the car and more between professional valets. Inside of the exhaust is a losing battle if you actually drive the car more than polish it, so I wouldn't bother personally, but if you must then get the Britemax Metal twins. Clean and protect in one go (well, two goes). Make your life easier and get a polishing ball to use on a drill (and any cheap drill if you don't have one all already). If there's a bit of built up already you might find you need a metal polish with more cut and/or fine (0000 grade) wire wool to tidy it up first, then it's just a case of keeping on top of it. That should be all you need in terms of products really, although you may want to look into a pre-wash (like this) for a safer wash. Anything else is going to be overkill if you're paying someone to do it properly for you as well. Beyond that it's all technique for a safe wash. As already mentioned, don't wash in direct sunlight or on hot panels. The more dirt you can remove without touching the car the better. When you are doing a contact wash, keep the mitt/pad clean - rinse it out in a separate bucket regularly, keep your wash and rinse buckets separate - and when drying pat rather than drag the cloth over the surface. Bathe+ isn't a particularly sudsy shampoo but it's incredibly well lubricated with is actually important (unlike the amount of bubbles produced!) so don't be put off and stick to the dilution rates it suggests. Number one thing to remember; everything is easier to clean if it's properly protected at all times!

That’ll teach me to try to be funny before coffee!

They mike bikes, not handbags... you know that right? Just checking.

There’s a reason they chose that angle as the publicity shot though...

It's almost like both decisions were determined entirely by the financial gain.... almost.

Only on later cars, I don’t recall when it changed though. Toggled simply by holding the button for several seconds, iirc.

It’s a very great thing that nothing else looks the same as the Civic...

No comment on going doolally....

Just noticed something in my last post, just to clarify; without silicone. No silicones. Silicones are horrible, shiny, tacky terrible things of rubbishness.

This. On UK cars at least.

Someone will be along shortly to make claims about funding a remake if you're not careful... Suitably diluted liquid APC (all purpose cleaner - supermarket own brands are as good as any, so cheap and cheerful is fine for this!), as my young padowan advises is the best option for cleaning. In terms of dressing afterwards just anything without silicone in it and you'll be fine - basically avoid Halfords! C6 is very good, as is HubiKote HubiDash is also one of my favourites.

^^^ exactly that!

Both that sprung immediately to mind have demonstrated the same thing now, this very evening & on the same thread no less!

I can’t condone the use of IronX - see either of my threads on fallout removers - but the rest is good advice. Sealant after a was is entirely a waste of product, it simply won’t bond so the sealant will be removed very quickly. Wax after a sealant is equally as pointless though tbh. Any decent sealant won’t need a top up and the wax will be a sacrificial layer so either go with a better sealant or choose either wax or sealant rather than both. What products in particular are you thinking of? You would probably be better off doing a proper pre-wash and cleanse routine and going for a mediocre LSP (wax or sealant) than going for a mediocre cleanse and an expensive LSP. Also, pictures. We like like pictures!

I read that screenshot essentially as disqualification is different to revoked; Disqualification; existing licence is still "valid" (as such) but you no longer qualify to drive a vehicle during the ban (obviously) = no new valid from date. Cancelled/revoked; licence is no longer valid = new valid from date. I read "new licence/one" as photo card in this case. The same screenshot also suggests that the OP's licence won't (or shouldn't) have been revoked, but he's simply disqualified. Otherwise he can apply for a new licence now. It certainly suggests he'll have to reapply for a "new one" either way though. TBH, I'm still none the wiser either way here.

Exactly my point.

Turn your photo card over. On the back, section 10 is the “valid from” date. This won’t change when you renew your photo card (the “issue date” in section 4a and “photo expiry date” in section 4b will however). I’ll say that I have no idea if the valid from date will change as a result of having to reapply for a licence - I could easily argue cases for both sides though! - but if this date is changed I suspect that will have an impact on insurance, whereas the issue date is meaningless. When you renew, it’s actually the photo that becomes invalid rather than licence; ergo the valid from date, pertaining to the licence itself, is maintained. The OP’s licence has apparently been invalidated though, so different kettle of fish... assuming it is in fact invalid currently, of course!

Already had my say on the Civic, so I'll just stick to pointing out that you're just as responsible dragging out the conversation you're "trying" to move away from.

The irony....

Investment? Have you seen the cost of maintaining a standard F1 that isn't even driven?!?