ilogikal1

Bit late now if you’ve already opted for it. It’s not the worst stuff in the world, but dealers tend not to prepare or apply such protection properly and subsequently they tend not to last more than two or three months at best. Hopefully you got it thrown into the deal for free?!? Generally speaking, you’re far off better taking the car to a detailer and spending similar money or less on getting something professionally applied rather than paying dealer prices for the apprentice valeter to throw some products in the direction of an unprepared car.

To be fair, they're not pretending it's anything less than a money-making scheme. They're just claiming that the money raised will be used to combat climate change. Whatever that means.

Don't bother with Photobucket, it's awful these days! Plenty of other hosting sites available that are better and more reliable, but this site also hosts pictures too (which reminds me, my "guilty conscience donation to the club" is due again!). There are considerably worse products you could have got from Halfords, so good work on AF; Lather is actually a perfectly fine shampoo. Radiance isn't my first choice but it's still pretty good itself. Megs USF is... fine. I didn't even know that Halfords offer quick release foam lances though, so that's a bonus... when you get a working pressure washer and you've got Citrus Power in the meantime! Not a bad haul at all, it gives you everything you need for a decent clean and protection. The only thing you may want to add is a tar remover, but not an urgent addition as you'll only be using it every other month (or less) for a deep clean to compliment Iron Out & claying.

Shame those ugly tyres ruin the whole car though.

Okay, I checked a few of the usual suspects for the CG kit and no one else does that one that I can see, so a few options for you; The "just in case your budget is flexible" option (it really does have everything you'll need for a long while, but also 3.5x your budget ). Or the "I just want everything to match"option; select Super Suds Shampoo 1900:1, Clear View Glass Cleaner, Alloy Clean, Hydro QD Tyre Gel (as like for like replacements to the CG kit offering) either Hydroseal or Hydrocoat Hybrid (as an alternative to the wax) and chuck in Iron DeTox and G&T Glue & Tar Remover as bonus products that you'll need sooner rater than later, get a bag, cloths, brushes, mitt and applicator thrown in with plenty of money left over to add either a clay bar or better still a clay mitt. Alternatively, if you're really looking for a wax over a sealant, exchange the Hydroseal/Hydrocoat Hybrid from the above for Interior Clean Coat (as another useful bonus item) and add this wax to your order, all within budget and collectively similar price to the CG kit with some bonus products at ~£80 Then there's the " ilogikal1 made me do it" option (in no particular order); Pre-wash - Citrus Power Shampoo - Bathe+ (for adding protection as well) or Bathe for just a straight up shampoo. And of course a proper wash pad (if you don't already have something that's not a sponge). Fallout remover - Korrosol Clay - cloth Adding shiny - Tripple Protect - WetCoat And for good measure whilst you're there; chuck this in too All of which should you for a while and comes in at ~£90.

Hurry back, I like spending other people’s money on detailing gear.

You called? As Stu says, PB is a very good site and they only sell products that they actually use themselves, which is why they can provide detailed guides on uses. However, PB is now run by CYC, so that model is likely to change as time goes on - indeed some of the CYC stock has already made it onto the website, which itself isn't as maintained as it once was with a plethora of broken links now, which is a real shame. Gyeon offer great products, but a lot of their range of LSP's in particular are aimed more at the avid detailers than novices (that's not to say you can't use them, but they come across as more daunting than they really are, unlike wax which is easily removed and difficult to get wrong, for example). My advice; set yourself a budget and stick to it. Decide which area you want to start with and build up in stages - I'd suggest focusing on a safe wash technique first and get the wash stage sorted before buying a full range of products, especially if you already have some stuff. That caveat aside; Car Chem; Cheap, effective, easy to use and forgiving products. And they do a product for everything to satisfy your brand OCD. However, if you let us know what you budget is, what you really want to try and what you really need, I'm pretty sure we can build you a shopping list. If you've not seen it already, I've got a thread in the detailing section where I basically just trial and review all sorts of products and my only real advice is; don't stick to one brand but do find a product you like that works for you and stick with that. Or remortgage the house....

It depends on how near perfect you want to the result to be really. You can buy self-adhesive chrome trim/edging which you may or may not be able to get in the right size with some searching. Another option is chrome paint. To be honest, the finish always tends to be bright silver rather than chrome of the ones I've seen. On a small part it may be passable with enough care and attention, but it will probably never be perfect. If you got the paint route, you're likely to get better results from a 3 stage approach; I believe black is the best base (but could bleed through to the chrome if you're not careful), chrome layers until you're happy and then you may (or may not) not want to add a top coat for shine. You can also get chrome paint pens that might be an alternative to spraying, but with similar drawbacks. Or you can now get some decent chrome films which give a better chrome finish than paint, if there's a lip to apply it to.

Again, what that guy said ^^^ Black Hole will work just as well on white cars as black cars, you'll never notice any colour charging, however Black Hole is a glaze rather than a polish. Actual polishes won't be colour charged as they're not designed to leave anything behind, unlike wax. There's only a very small handful of waxes that are colour charged (and most of those are Dodo Juice), but even then you're looking at 4+ coats on a flat white car side-by-side to unwaxed for it to be noticeable. On pearl white, I'd suggest you'd never really notice it unless you're absolutely trying to and keep adding layer after layer. Just use up what you have and then look into upgrading when you need to replenish, to be honest.

Cheaper alternatives from Flexipads that are the same thing. Handy to have, but definitely cheaper versions around. Edit; Flexipads, not Flex!

What that guy said! ^^^ A303 is certainly one of the best available for protecting soft tops. Gyeon FabricCoat is equally as good though. In terms of washing - this or marginally better still this; spray onto a wet roof, agitate (a medium stiffness brush works better than calling it names. Sometimes), rinse thoroughly and leave to dry. Then protect either with this or that. The only thing to be weary of when cleaning is taking care with the pressure washer on older hoods that might leak, or around the window seals because Nissan, otherwise you're pretty much good to go really.

It's okay, the only similarity that render has to the silhouette in the Nissan video is the roofline. Everything below that is pure fabrication.

Depend on where you are, the body shop and the current state of the paint. Most of the money goes into the labour for prep and prices vary wildly based on location alone. Expect anywhere between £2-8k for a full car.

I especially like the sentence that started, "just to give you some more interesting facts, Neesahn is probably...".

There is evidence to the contrary.

Please don't....

You see, I'm much more pessimistic about it (I don't know if you could tell from these threads? ) and at this point I'm still thinking it's more if the times comes than when. I'll concede it's considerably more likely now that Nissan have actually suggested it themselves, but there's still no indication that it's coming this way at all. I mean if we're picking up on the subtle hints in Nissan's teaser video (and i generally hate to to do this because there's a high chance of reading too much into nothing!) but did anyone else notice that all the models featured are from the American market? Most exclusively so.

On a race car, an actual race car not a track toy, where they're usually sponsored; fine. On a Trans Am in 1977; passable. On pretty much anything else; cheap, tacky and usually horribly discoloured after the first 8 seconds.

15ml should do it in that case.

The beers will definitely help with lining it up again.

Depending on how you intend to use it, anywhere between the two would be fine. ONR really does need to be wiped off, so pre-wash use would depend on how you intend to remove it; If you're just using it to spray on/wipe off then more towards QD ratio (the more dirt, the stronger it should be obviously, but if it's just light dust you could reduce it slightly). If you're spraying on a panel to add extra lubrication when washing with ONR (or normal shampoo) then lube ratio will do the job. If you're planning to spray on/rinse off, I wouldn't bother at all because you won't get much out of the product at all to be honest. As a pre-wash it tends to work best if you spray the panel more-or-less immediately before washing to add more lubrication, it's not like a snow foam where it needs time to dwell to break down the dirt though - the last thing you want with ONR is for it to dry out on the panel.

1oz in 2 gallons of water. Or in English; 256:1. 29.625ml in 7.58 litres of water. Or 3.9ml per litre. For a "normal" wash. Or ~16ml per litre for a clay lube. Or ~47ml per litre for a QD. Tips; use plenty of cloths; flip/change regularly. Keep them wet and saturated. Do one panel at a time and dry it immediately. Be aware of what you're doing and you should be fine.

I can see why that designer works at LADA...

Out of interest, what is this based on? Not questioning your thoughts here, just interested in your sources.

Just looks like it needs an extra buff to pick up the oily residue. This can be caused by a few things, most likely over application, not working the product to sufficiently break it down or oversaturated cloths when buffing off (or any combination of the three). Try a clean cloth, spritzed with a bit of QD (just one squirt misted over is ore than enough) or dampened with clean water (wet it, wring it out as much as you can by hand, you want it damp not wet!) and then buff a small section and it should clear right up. Turn the cloth frequently until you run out of clean sides then switch to another cloth - you’re probably looking at 3-4 cloths to buff the whole car at this point.