Watshot

The emergency boot release under the rear strut is a pull cord. The tab is velcro'd to the trim, pull it off and pull the cord. If the boot switch or battery has failed, this should open it as it is a mechanical operation, not an electrical switch, hence 'emergency'. If you here the switch 'firing' but the boot doesn't open, then as above, you have the common problem with tired lifter springs. If the boot opens with the pull cord then you have identified a problem with the switch or the battery as HASH says.

I don't think the parking sensors can be adjusted, but the screaming volume can be cut by about 50% by sticking a piece of tape over the speaker hole in the siren. Mine was stuck on the rear boot wall, just under and maybe offset from the back of the number plate. Lift the boot mats and have a look around that area. They vary as the sensors were a dealer fit option, so the location was down to the monkey doing the job. It's now much easier on the ears.

But Nissan did see fit to improve the gearbox on the Zed, twice, afaik. So they didn't get it right first time, maybe the Molyslip addresses some of the short comings of the early box? Also, whilst one respected specialist may not be keen on it, another, Horsham Developments, sell it as part of a gearbox service pack, as does Zmanalex. I have no idea either way and would normally be happy to trust the advice of a respected specialist, but in this instance that doesn't seem to be clear cut.

Try and actually read that sentence. It doesn't have cambelts either....

'57 plate, 6k. Work at home, two other cars, use it when I feel like it, sorry. I actually enjoy the fact that it still feels new when I take it out.

A lot of standard lines are braided anyway, you just can't see it when it has a thick black rubber protective coating. Guys will still fall for the marketing/forum chat and change them to aftermarket and insist they have a firmer peddle though. Even if the Zed one's can be upgraded, I don't like the idea of removing a section of hard line and putting in a longer section of braided hose, probably cancels out any benefit. I wonder why they don't sell the shorter 'standard' length and keep the hard line section on the caliper?

Hydraulic.

Disconnect the MAF sensor, if it doesn't make any difference to the rough running then it would confirm the MAF is at fault. One on the DE, two on an HR.

Have to agree with ilogikal1, it's just a bucket. Any brand new bucket will do from anywhere for a couple of quid. Grit guards may stop some debris swirling back up on to your mitt, but personally I don't think it's necessary. As long as you don't do what I read somewhere which said you should rub your mitt on the guard to loosen the debris. There's no way you should be that deep stirring up the grit in the bottom of your bucket!

I hope you mean that you had the car on stands, not jacks, when you were rolling around underneath it, or you really are an idiot. Seriously though kids, the supplied jack is for changing a wheel in an emergency, other jacks are for raising the car to get axle stands underneath. I know a guy who has spent several decades in a wheelchair because a car that was only supported by a jack came down on him.

Standard first response I suspect. They know most people give up straight away. As suggested, it may be hard work, but you need to keep pushing.

Page 4-8 of the handbook states: "When the air intake button is pushed for longer than approximately 1.5 seconds, both indicator lights will flash twice, and then the intake air will be controlled automatically. During this AUTO mode, the indicator light of the currently selected mode illuminates." Doesn't help much does it? I can only assume that in auto mode it switches between inside and outside air recirculation depending on the best needs of the system in any given position. I haven't tested it...

My understanding is that aftermarket 'braided' hoses bypass this hardline and screw directly to the caliper. You could also have a length of hard line made up to fit without having to visit Nissan. You can even get DIY hard line kits if you plan on doing a few, although that's probably more for the restoration enthusiast than a one off repair.

If the cruise control system malfunctions: "The SET indicator light on the meter panel then blinks to warn the driver."

Everything you need to know is already pinned under 'servicing' in the 350z technical section.

maybe, I'll try it tonight, mine is a UK facelift that left the factory in September 2006 and I can't get it to work at the moment, I can turn the anti hijack feature on and off but can't get the windows to go down Again, no they don't.

No they don't.

Key is the same for all models (U.K). Handbook tells you how to change from only opening drivers door to opening both with one push.

The MAF plugs into the air intake tube behind the airbox. One on the DE, two on the HR (one on each side).

Typical Police ego thing. They just don't have the capacity to back down when they get it wrong.

That's what I was alluding to in post #6. Sounds like starter or solenoid.

Did you bypass the switch to test the circuit as described above by Keyser? You say the battery engages fine, do you mean the starter solenoid? Is the starter motor turning over the engine or not?

Have to agree, the new style flat blade wipers update the look of the car. I got mine from Opie Oils.

The reason Nissan left part of the cover filled in is because it is designed to fit cosmetically on the door card and isn't centered over the speaker. The speakers are offset behind it, the 'blocked' portion of the plastic doesn't sit over the speaker. Whether opening up the plastic has an effect or not I wouldn't know. Maybe removing the bulk of the grille has more affect than simply clearing the blocked part.

Hardly a rip off when you compare it to the cost of a new passport, which is just to update the photo every ten years. £72.50, plus photo's £5, plus postage.