Watshot

They are here: http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/222-hide-n-seat/

YOU, SIR, ARE A WINNER!!!!! IT LIVES...IT LIVES!!! The old turn it off and on again trick, who'd have thought. Only difference being that you have to remove the lead first. That is bizarre, could so easily have ended up on the scrap heap. Many thanks to everyone who tried to help with different suggestions and so on, it really is appreciated, and a no cost win for a change! The Missus said "why are you asking on a car forum?"....... there you have your answer! Massive to everyone.

Phone line was protected also, we lost the last one like that. Phone and router are all good, I'm using them now with the tablet. Who'd have thought a cordless kettle would be a problem, don't think I have a spare lead. I'll get the missus to bring one home to rule it out later. PSU has no apparent spare part number on it. Just under the fan outlet on the outside of the case it says: CZC04737CB. On a sticker on the PSU inside it says: CT:5BKXP011ZZE0EF. On the main internal sticker it says: Bestec (assume manufacturer) Model: ATX0180P5WB, various power ratings, then: S/N100900045020 (assume serial no.). Finally, product of China Capacitors look okay, but I'm no expert, clearly. I'm near Banbury, Oxon, if you missed it above. Cheers.

I think you're probably right, plus you get two years or so advancements etc. I'm near Banbury, north Oxfordshire. PSU, if that's the unit the mains lead plugs into, looks easy enough, if the new one has matching block connectors etc. Would the surge protection not have saved it, or do they go on their own anyway? As has been suggested, may be easier to bite the bullet, especially if I can retrieve my stuff from the HDD. Would that work with a new PC? Plug and play? It's a Maxtor one touch 4, fairly old now. Thanks everyone for the responses, didn't expect so much help so quickly. Why aren't you all working?

Sorry, I can't keep up, typing with a little pen thing on a tablet. Should I try the PSU then?

Yea, no power, all appears dead. It had surge protection at the plug, so guessing it's internal fault. It's a HP Compaq SG3, running windows 7 home premium. Last caddy I had was a VW, I...I'm not helping much am I dad.

So cars I can generally deal with, but take the covers off electronics and they may as well be full of fairy dust. I thought we had just had a momentary power cut as the PC went off and the lights flickered, but it turns out it was just the PC packing up. I have checked the fuse in the plug, which is good, and removed the cover hoping to find other fuses or something obvious and easy to fix, but no such luck. And that's about as far as I can take it. Annoying as it's only a couple of years old. So the question is; before I take my trousers down and bend over in the middle of PC World, is there anything else I can do or check in an attempt to salvage my PC? Failing that, if I have to buy a new one, is there a straightforward way of transferring our photos and stuff or does it have to go to the shop? I do have everything backed up on an external memory device but I don't suppose it's as easy as plugging it in and clicking re-load? You here tales of all your bank details or passwords being nicked from your old unit so I'm just concerned before committing anything. Any help or advice appreciated, thanks!

Nissan specifies 5w30 engine oil, and I think Castrol Edge would be the only contender on quality in the Castrol range. Personally I would prefer to see Fuchs Race Pro S, or some use Motul. Perhaps you should ask why they are recommending 10/60 or 10/40, seems odd.

Scroll down to page 10. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/2006/co.pdf I could only get to one of the block drain bolts but managed to swap out about 8.5 litres, so was happy with that.

You could try this. It was in the 'Guides' section. Most commonly affects the front left speaker, but fix addresses all. http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/20413-how-to-fix-the-bose-left-speaker-cut-out-issue/

It is right. The Nissan 'P' service schedule relates to other Nissan cars also, hence item 15: "L.S.D. gear oil (except viscous coupling type)". The Zed has a viscous L.S.D, therefore the P2 and P3 services are identical. Now the pricing problem arises when garages make their own interpretation of the service schedule, e.g. including plug changes or coolant etc. and charging more for their version of a P3. The Nissan schedule classifies these items (and others, not necessarily Zed items, i.e. cambelt) as: "Additional service items at additional cost". And can therefore be added to any service as required at the specified intervals, be it a P1,2 or 3. You can check this in your service book page 18 onwards. If you don't have it, a link to a pdf copy is here (link in post 8 still works): http://www.350z-uk.c...vice-checklist/

It's because, as Jetset has already pointed out in post 19, the rollers are run one side at a time before being run simultaneously. This can potentially damage a LSD (and any 4wd set up). And don't rely on the computer flagging up your lsd to the tester. This info was in the 1st post: "You also asked whether the fact that the vehicle has a limited slip differential fitted it would be flagged up to the tester. This fact would not be drawn to the tester s attention by the system as this information is not recorded on our database"

Scroll to page 97 in the link below. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/2007_Coupe+Roadster/LT.pdf Seems straightforward from the instructions and diagram, although I have a coupe, so no first hand experience of the roadster.

Maybe you mean Farnborough. It most definitely wasn't at Fairford this year. Well publicised before the event that they couldn't get in, and something of an own goal for Fairford who are starting to miss some of the special highlights, especially now that the yanks don't bother. Even the new F-35 Lightning didn't show on the Saturday for it's slot.

8K 57 plate.

Sent you a pm a few days back, although you've been on here it's still showing as unread. Usual problem is a full quota of messages or something like that. Need some advice bud!

I can't remember exactly, but I think you just need to do the reset detailed in the guide. Or remove the battery, then do a reset...

Just to clarify if anyone is using this as a guide; very few oil filters come with a nut type feature. The K&N shown has this to allow easy removal with a socket/spanner. You should never use a tool to tighten an oil filter. The manufacturers instructions are generally written on the side of the filter and will normally be something along the lines of: screw on until filter makes contact with face, screw a further half to three-quarters of a turn by hand . Tightening by hand plus a further half turn with a spanner is too much.

As above, you just use double sided automotive tape, same as original. A lot cheaper with the offers you have. Shouldn't the garage be replacing it if they damaged it? Or are they in denial?

Can't see original pictures, but from the new one above, it appears to be missing headlight washers which were mandatory on all U.K cars. This would support the sellers own statement that it's an import.

Which is......?

I mean, I answered it there for you, last post.

At least you had an extra £230 saved to put towards the other stuff.

Go back to the original thread, answer there.

Okay, lift the mat out. Pull the two plastic covers in the front bottom corners forward and out. You can now access the two screws holding the framework through these holes.