Watshot

Unfortunately it would appear that your chap has just been a bit lazy. There is space there, which is why as you correctly point out, most are fitted in that spot. The visual clue from the outside is the body line that runs horizontally across the top of the tailpipes, where the bumper starts to curve under the car. The bottom of the crash bar is just above that line. It is about five inches deep, so that leaves just enough space to squeeze the sensor in under the indicator clusters. Perhaps he thought he could just reach up from underneath and fit them, easy job. Then realised that you actually have to release the top of the bumper to get enough access, not so easy. You can check it out yourself. The beam is visible if you look from underneath. Then take out one of the rear tail/brake light units and you will be able to get a hand down the back (this is how you change the bulbs in the lower light clusters) and you should be able to see/feel the available space. Perhaps he hadn't budgeted the time for removing the bumper. Relatively straight forward, but a couple of fiddly bolts in the upper light wells that can easily become frustrating/ get chewed up if you're not familiar with how they work. Rear bumper removal is detailed here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/2008_Coupe+Roadster/ Section EI page 15/16.

My local 'professional' DPD driver couldn't be bothered to ring the doorbell (I was in, waiting for him, following the tracking) luckily I caught him having just dropped my parcel over a seven foot gate. A Hifi amplifier which actually states on the box 'Useless if dropped'. He didn't quibble about taking it away again, just mumbled some lies about the bell not working as I stood there in front of him pushing a working buzzer. Always going to get a few rotten apples despite any companies reviews.

Just run out of standard size MPSS fronts (225/45 18). Not likely to be back in stock for a month or two.

I think he's talking about the carpet and how it attaches to the baulkhead. Not the mats.

Bixenon were actually fitted from face lift (DE Revup, 06) onwards, not just the HR.

Gearbox and diff, drain and fill bolts are all torqued the same; 34.5 N-m (25 ft-lb). New washers recommended.

Kinda but they weren't already trading with them..... They aren't selling there lines and because I'm trying to sort something for everyone they don't like it!! I was just going by this comment that the Trader (s) in question had no dealings with Goodridge.

Begs the question; why would a company like Goodridge get twitchy about comments from a trader they don't deal with? You could understand it if Demon Tweeks contract was up for renewal and they couldn't get the same deal. Think may be there's some info missing, not that we have any right to have it disclosed.

Another no here. For the marginal aesthetic gain, besides the relatively high cost, from what I've read on here, there's a risk of compromising the ride/handling to some degree. So I wouldn't myself.

Don't open the system whilst the engine is running. Any air 'bubbles' should escape from the bleed screw when you're filling up. Also remember to open the heater valve to drain/refill all of the coolant. The system will draw coolant from the reservoir if it needs it. Once it has cooled down, the level on the reservoir will show whether it has dropped or not. If it has, top it back up to the 'Max' mark. (You don't have to top it up at the rad cap). If you have a problem, air lock, etc. wait until it has cooled, open the bleed screw, keep topping up slowly through the rad cap, repeat until the level remains constant at the max mark when cold. If you measure the amount of coolant/mix when you are filling the system, you will have a better idea whether you are near to the correct capacity or not (remembering how much, if not all, you managed to drain). Irrespective of this, never over fill above the max mark (checked when cold). Due to the difficulty with draining the block, some folk just drain and refill the radiator. this is okay if you do it often enough as it will reduce the amount of old coolant left in the block as it mixes with the new each time it is changed. The problem is, you introduced pure water into the mix instead of coolant when you were flushing the system, and this just dilutes it too much. To be honest, I couldn't find one of the two drain plugs on the block (or couldn't get to it, can't remember), but I drained 7 litres plus, so the half litre or so that was left behind wasn't an issue. But I had no need to flush the system, but if you do yours again it will have had a reasonable flush now anyway. Just take your time when filling.

Couple of problems you may have now Matt. The system is pressurized so it's going to keep pushing coolant out if you run it with the rad cap off. But perhaps more importantly, as you only drained the radiator and not the block, then flushed with water (running the motor both times), you have diluted the coolant that remains in the block. Refilling the radiator with a 50/50 mix will dilute further once run and mixed with whatever was left in the block. You probably don't have the recommended 50/50 protection required. It's a good idea to drain into a bucket and measure how much of the 7.9 litre capacity you have removed, then you have a better idea of what you need to achieve when you refill. Also, try and drain the block. Follow the manual I linked to in post 2, but in a nutshell; fill slowly with the bleed screw open, (close everything) then run until warm, cool down, repeat. And yes, fill the reservoir to the 'max' line.

They are correct. Assuming the left hand pipe from the rad cap is attached to the entry on the bottom of the expansion tank. The top pipe is an overflow and exits to air lower down on the right hand side (as you look at your photo). The tank is also a reservoir so should be filled between the min and max lines marked on the back. Fill using the cap on the tank. It won't fill itself from the rad cap when cold. The system is notoriously difficult to drain and fill. Access to the drain plugs on the block is limited, and air locks are common (have you used the bleed valve behind the block?). You can check here for the correct Nissan procedure: http://www.nicoclub....Coupe Roadster/ section marked 'COpdf' page 9. Or search the forum for other users experience and recommendations. Also, possibly too late, but best to refill with the original Nissan spec coolant. And yes, the system regulates itself through the single pipe. Best of luck.

Shame, seemed like a good idea but I've missed the boat. Always seem to end up running far too much new fluid through, just to be sure. Would have been nice to have an easy way of seeing it. Obviously if it's old and dirty you get a better idea, but I never let it get that bad. Every two years.

Just had a quick Google, as the idea of a colour change to help identify when the new fluid reaches the caliper being bled sounds useful, and it would appear that the ATE typ200 which has replaced the Superblue is now amber in colour to satisfy the type approval or whatever. So do you guys who say you are using it have old stock of the Blue, or do you buy it somewhere else?

All U.K cars came with Brembo's. Nothing to do with G.T pack. The stereo looks the same either way, but the Bose will say so on the tape flap. Again, seat connectors were probably included in the loom whether GT or not. Does it have the Bose sub behind the drivers seat? Sounds like a non GT, so no point chasing cruise.

If your car is a U.K model with the GT option (Leather, Bose stereo, cruise) then it would have had cruise as standard. Otherwise probably not. The dash light outline was probably included anyway before the car was earmarked GT or not, rather than manufacture two different sets of clocks. If it's an import you'll need to investigate the history of that specific car more thoroughly.

You know that's not an o.e.m net, before you get carried away thinking it's a bargain...

Manufacturers recommended grade is 5w30. You'll find the detail in the handbook if you have one, and it's marked on the standard oil filler cap. Although another thumbs up for Fuchs Race Pro S.

Had good results mounted to the front face of the strut brace. Great view through the windscreen and picks up the driver/passenger if needed. Used the sticky pad mount with no problems and cleaned up easily afterwards. Discreet enough for Silverstone being tucked away in the back like that.

The lip is created as the pad eats away the disc, as the pad doesn't extend right to the edge of the disc, that material is left behind. However, if the disc seems otherwise okay, i.e. no grooving, run out variation etc., then as 370Ad says, measure the remaining disc thickness. If it's within spec then you consider whether there is enough meat left on it to warrant fitting another set of pads. No point if they won't outlast the remaining disc life. Porsche seem to be suggesting this. I find increasingly nowadays that I am changing discs and pads on the front of modern cars at a ratio of one to one, whereas in the past you could expect maybe two or three sets of pads before renewing discs.

"Think Bike" was aimed at drivers who don't give more than a cursory glance before pulling out at junctions. Assuming that nothing big that can harm them is approaching, they pull out. 'Think Bike' means take another look. Is there something smaller that you may harm if you pull out? A rider can slow down, anticipate, move over etc. but, ultimately there is a point of no return (especially if the vehicle is turning right across both lanes...) and you can guess the rest. Hardly a "stupid campaign".

As ever, Zmanalex would probably be your best bet for a reliable second-hand lump.

Your local council depot will mot public cars, but they do not carry out repairs, so there is no incentive to fail. My local is bookable online where you can choose day and time slots. Even early morning if you need it (07:30). No need to risk it with the other chancers.

I put "350z gearbox scaremongering troll" into Google and I find there are nearly 5000 of them...... Now I'm pi**ed 'cause I have to sell my mint low mileage HR and buy a DE just so I have enough money left over to buy a new 'box when it inevitably explodes.

Just to clarify, do you think you have every factory option, or, of those on the car, that they were fitted at the factory. Rather than, say, by a subsequent owner? It's just that I don't see colour coded splash guards or stainless sill trims, both of which were available from the factory options list. GLWTS.