Watshot

The HR is different, but it was so long ago I can't remember. I thought it was mentioned in these pages somewhere? Either way, it's not difficult, just slightly different. I wouldn't give up just yet.

Genuine Honda stubbies work perfectly and are readily available. Some others also, but can't recall. Cheap and cheerful aftermarket type stuff tends to result in loss of signal.

Sorry to here that Keyser. I'll look forward to your new projects (and finishing old!). Always an interesting read. Dicky, apologies for the minor hijack.

Strap yourself in Dicky if you want to read Keysers build thread; it's epic. I would link to it but can't remember the title, sorry. I'm sure Keyser will get a link up. Incidentally, what happened to the Mini build thread Keyser? I was following but can't remember it being finished.

Item 18: Stabilizer Connecting Rod = Drop Link. This is the same item as Keyser has shown in his photo (although as he said, they are not original Nissan). I can't see anywhere in the manual where it says to grease these. They are normally a non-serviceable item, and being relatively cheap and easy to change are just replaced. http://www.nicoclub....pe/2006/rsu.pdf

Patients.............. Patience............. It's not funny if you edit your post Will....

If he's followed the service schedule, then nothing. they are identical. Even the LSD oil should not have been changed as it specifies "except viscous coupling type", which is the 350Z. If you chose to change it anyway as an extra, then that's fine. Any other extras should be specified in addition at the required time/mileage intervals, irrespective of the type of service due, e.g. Plugs, Coolant. It's a common source of confusion. Even Nissan garages charge different prices for a P2 and a P3, and will then tell you that they do this, that and the other extra. Thereby proving that they don't even follow the recommended service schedule themselves. I wouldn't worry too much as long as he's covered all of the important stuff (oil, filters) most of it is just inspection. If your car has gone two or more years without changing the brake fluid, did he do that? It's listed as part of the P2/3.

If there are five different shades (a common occurrence with any manufacturer, due to different years, recipes, etc. etc.) there is no guarantee that Humpys is the same as yours. You have to compare the samples to your own car to confirm the correct shade unfortunately.

Here we go again...for the sake of anyone searching in future: All U.K cars came with Brembo brakes, nothing to do with GT Pack. Rays alloys were a factory option, became standard equipment later, nothing to do with GT Pack. As stated in post 2; GT Pack is Leather/Bose/Cruise. That's it. Nothing else.

As Kyle says; one tube like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GEAR-BOX-MOLYSLIP-TREATMENT-AND-PROTECTION-65ML-TUBE-/261441744894?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cdf246ffe It is unlikely that your garage would carry stock, but if you need it sooner it is available in Halfords @ £8.99.

Items alternate in red and black for clarity. If you read item 15 again, it says "except viscous coupling type", therefore this item does not apply to the 350Z. This alone then makes the P3 identical to a P2. People often mistake the "Additional service items at additional cost" as being P3 items, they are not. Some e.g. fuel filter, cambelt, don't even apply to the 350Z. This is a generalised service schedule that the 350Z has been lumped under (if less than 18k/year.) People (myself included) change gear and diff oil because they want to for a belt and braces approach. The Nissan 'P' service schedule does not require it. Some find a benefit by adding Molyslip to the gearbox when the changes start getting a bit 'tired'.

Sounds like you need to apply more elbow grease; taken from Detailing World forum: There are essentially two types of holograms: 1) abrasion holograms, often referred to as buffer trails or machine marring, which are microscopic scratches in the paint caused by micro marring of the surface by a very fine abrasive pad or compound - when viewed in the sun you get a sort of holographic effect, sometimes with the small scratches appearing to move; buffer trails tend to be in circular trails, following the path of the machine. These need to be polished out, typically by machine with a fine finishing compound/pad. 2) oil holograms, caused by residues of products (oils, waxes or sealants predominantly) curing at different levels on the surface. These high spots and low spots alter the depth of the surface visually speaking, so the paint can look darker and lighter in different places and reflect light in odd ways. Typically this looks like smearing or blotching. The causes of this is either buffing off a product too early or buffing it off too late. By buffing too early, you inadvertently spread fresh product whilst attempting to clear the panel. If you fail to remove all fresh product and it remains on the surface in a small - perhaps near-invisible amount - then it could overcure or remain 'unlevelled' and lead to hologramming. If you buff it off too late, as in the second instance, and leave it on too long, then the product could cure/set at different levels and may be difficult to buff or remove. Oily products can also soak into mildly UVdamaged clearcoats if left too long (mainly reds and blacks) and again, these soak into microscopic pits in the paint if left for a longer time and may be unable to be removed/buffed totally. The final type of oil hologram resembles fine scratches - it is simply fine lines of product that have been spread rather than removed. This is why a second buff is often worthwhile. People often mistake these for scratches caused by the cloth or product, but it is really just the peaks and troughs left behind after a single pass of a cloth (the fibres causing the channels). To remove, reapplication and removal of the product can sometimes work, some people apply water as a spritz onto naturally-based waxes with good effect, you could use a solvent or degreaser to thoroughly clean the surface or you could simply wait for the oil/product to diminish over time.

In dash cup holder was replaced with a business card holder when the interior was revamped. Two new cup holders were provided in the compartment next to the handbrake under the retractable lid. There is a removable centre section which stores at the back of the compartment if the whole space is required. Later cars were also provided with illuminated bottle holders in the front of the door cards.

It's a DE Rev-up, registered March 2007. HR (with bonnet bulge) didn't appear until late summer '07.

Yep. That's where I'd seen it. Seems odd when they are trying to get the majority on to DD to surcharge it. Don't help themselves.

Normally I would, but isn't it actually dearer to pay by DD? Goes against the general rule of thum eg. electricity bills etc. A one off cheaper payment online in five minutes is no great hardship. A bit mean to those that may need to spread their payments, a continuation of the old, dearer, bi-six month payment I suppose. Looking forward to ripping the clutter out of the corner of the screen though. Now if only they could find a way of ditching the number plates the looks would be much improved....

You would only leave a deposit having viewed and agreed a deal. The op has agreed a deal but not viewed yet. In this instance it would not be recommended to leave a deposit as there may be conflict with the seller should a fault be apparent which had not been disclosed during the phone conversation.

Think the op was looking for reassurance on high milers, but as mine is still not quite run in at 8K, you're out on both counts.

Try this: http://www.nicoclub....Roadster/PG.pdf Will be different for earlier models, something like this: http://www.nicoclub....Roadster/PG.pdf Page 16 onwards has the schematics you need. ^^ Snap.

Happens on a lot of cars, same thing as a squeaky door hinge. I've always used WD40 as it's designed to stop this kind of metal to metal squeak. Easy to spray around the pivots etc, and penetrates where it's needed. Always works for me.

I've had the same problem. Quote doesn't work now either. It's this site. Everything else works as it should. It's always slower to load than anything else as well.

Drive pinion bearing preload: 2.65-3.23 n.m http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/2008_Coupe+Roadster/RFD.pdf Section RFD 52.

It says a 2007 Revup, no mention of an HR.

Timing during the reset appears to vary. Mine resets without a problem after 10 or 15 seconds, I don't count anything. So I wouldn't get too hung up on exact timing. Sounds like trial and error, see what works for you.

Rtbiscuit supplied my stickers. Nismo in the box and 350Z on the other side (will fit either). Send him a pm and see if he's still doing them.