Watshot

There's not much behind there you can damage. The crash beam, as we said, and the wiring for the indicators etc. But you're going to have to take it off to run your wires anyway aren't you? You can see down behind it if you take out one of the tail lights, that's how you gain access to change indicator/fog/reverse bulbs. You'll be able to see the beam and the back of the indicator clusters, there's loads of space down there really! You won't be able to see where the sensors go from underneath, the bar will be in the way.

Ultimately the choice is yours, put them where you like, assuming they fit okay. You are aware the pictures are of two different bumpers though? Mudman's is an import bumper, so they couldn't go in the same spot as a U.K anyway...

Yes the middle two are higher. As I said, that's how it came new, so I don't know why. Looking at it I would guess it's just aesthetics, and of course you need to be aware if any other positioning would foul on the crash beam or anything else behind the bumper.

Parking sensors (and alarm I think) were U.K dealer fit. So not a factory fit. Something to do with different world regions and requirements I guess. Here's how mine were fitted from new. Doesn't mean every dealer did them the same, but you would think they may have followed a Nissan spec sheet.

I can also recommend this. I have the same model and it's epic. Absolute bargain. GLWS.

They were recalled here as well. Clutch Slave Cylinder and Alarm Control Module. That doesn't mean that they were all changed though. Likely that it was just an inspection, and change if necessary.

It appears that the pen truly is mightier than the sword... Well done.

Nothing to do with GT pack. Option on early cars, became standard fit later. GT adds leather/Bose/cruise. That's it.

Old Fiat test track on top of the Turin factory. Some would be more familiar with Mini's up there

The flexi's are there to take up the movement between the rocking of the engine and the exhaust system (the rubber hangers won't take all of the stress). If you fit solid pipes throughout, eventually another part of the system will fatigue and split. There's a reason why every manufacturer now fits a flexible section in a stock exhaust. Obviously a failed flexi section will still need replacing if it goes but it's there to protect the rest of the system. Ultimately it's your choice.

Had mine done with just panel filters and standard exhaust. Overall lost 1bhp. Obviously the argument is that the overall shape of the graph is better, but it's nothing I can feel. Win some, lose some. In your case general consensus is that you should get it done so that your exhaust mods are optimised.

You can't put a new (2015) plate on an older car Eddy, hence the debate above about the amount of Nismo 370's that it would suit.

Chap looking for one here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/97375-bluetooth-dongle-thingy/ Assuming he knows that his phone will work with it...

Wheels are 110nm.

Manufacturers state not to do this. If you torque your bolts correctly there should be no problem removing them. That's why the wheel wrench supplied with most spares only needs to be as long as it is and not a four foot scaffold pole. However, smearing some coppaslip on the contact face of the hub (disc) and wheel will stop corrosion making wheel removal difficult (actually recommended by Land Rover at service, not just for mud pluggers.) especially if you don't remove your wheels on a regular basis. A light even coating, not great gobs of the stuff that will flick all over your brakes.

The two bolts hold the wheel arch liner inside the front bumper. There is no trim piece missing from that area. If you had something there before it was aftermarket. If you're taking a closer look because you've just had your bumper done, which is reasonable, it may look like something should be attached there, but I can assure you it is standard, they just fix the liners inside. You can see everything that should be there, including the two bolts, on KyleR's underside photo.

Upside down !!! Never noticed that at first until you said, ...bloody good spot. Still a crime to actually do that I believe as well. Technically, in this instance, it's correct. As flying the union flag upside down is a distress signal...

The AirBnB info is correct, and we have used them, but for holiday rentals. Not heard of long term home rentals through them. Maybe he's trying to save on agency fees if he's found a holiday rental company cheaper. Either way if he's cutting corners with services that an agency can supply, i.e. viewing the property (a basic necessity surely?), it would ring alarm bells for any support should there be problems along the way. Whether he is legit or not, you need to protect yourselves. You are probably right to keep looking.

I think the y pipe is different as well, actually.

I just used mending plates. Hinged the bottom set so they could be folded flat under the carpet if the floor space is needed. Much prefer the correct (flush) fit, colour and security of oem part.

Any reason why you can't reverse in to your space, or vice versa, thereby placing the pillar on the drivers side? Otherwise, as above, carpet is effective and cheap (old cut off), or a piece of camping/training mat, probably available in grey somewhere to tone it down. Try a spray on contact adhesive.

Maybe. You can track the necessaries here, scroll down to page 56: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/2006/gw.pdf

Just to highlight how poor they are, I have a ten year old Land Rover with heated seats and you can feel them working by the time you move off the driveway. Funny how Nissan felt the need for a 'low' setting. I think the conversation go's something like: "is your seat warm yet?" "I can't tell, what about yours?", "I think it's doing something, are they on high?", "Yes, stupid question.", "Okay, well turn them off now, we're here..."

This was the same when I put a new belt on mine, and the car only had about 7k on it. Rather than too much tension, I just took it as being a marginally longer belt, even though it is genuine Nissan. It's now on about 8.5k, nearly two years later and the marks are the same, so I don't think there's anything to worry about.

Before you do anything, just check that one of the buttons isn't stuck in. As they are micro switches they only move a tiny amount and it doesn't look obvious if one is stuck. If it is, the system thinks you have your finger on the button so ignores a command from any other button. When mine did this it was the CD source button, it looked a tiny bit wonky, so I eased a blade in and it popped back out. Everything worked normally again after that.