Watshot

Holdcroft are a Nissan dealer who were generally good at supplying bits and bobs at reasonable prices rather than the usual Nissan 'bend over and take it' prices. They may even be a forum trader, I'm sure their banner used to scroll accross the bottom of the page. I think Dicky has just mixed up Horsham with Holdcroft.

How did you see that then Dave? The telly says it's not on general release until the 18th or something like that. Just curious.

Before you get confused further, 'GT' spec has nothing to do with brakes. GT has Cruise control, Heated electric leather seats, and upgraded Bose stereo. That's it. Good luck with your search.

As mentioned, fairly normal to be a bit notchy when cold. The usual remedy if concerned is to change the gear box oil and add a tube of Molyslip (this is just a coating that reduces wear/friction/whine). However, the main point appears to be that the 'box does not respond well to anything other than genuine Nissan gear oil (MT-XZ 75W85 3x1litre). Maybe when your gear box was 'serviced' (assume just an oil change), they may have used any generic gear box oil. Being a Nissan franchise does not ensure the use of Nissan fluids. If you are bothered, change the oil again and add some Molyslip. About £57, plus labour if you don't do it yourself.

Or you could read posts 17 & 20 whereby we have established that it only comes on the drivers side... :wink:

I bought mine then only realised after driving all the way up from Newcastle one of my cup holder pads was missing ... how gutted is my passengers next tasty beveridge going to be! I think it's only the drivers side that got the rubber pad for the bottle holder in the door.

HE'S DONE IT ALREADY.

Your instructor isn't being paid to tell you how to close your bonnet, he's just passing on personal opinion. As with most of these things the information is in the hand book. In this instance, and contrary to the norm, Nissan instruct us to "slowly close the bonnet and make sure it locks into place". Personally, there is a far greater chance of marking the paintwork than ever smashing a headlight so I will continue to drop from around a foot in line with most other manufacturers recommendations, this ensures a more positive engagement of the catch. A gentle push doesn't always fully engage the catch with numerous models I've tried over the years.

UK models were all Thatcham cat 1. But the JDM would be a whole different kettle of fish. First place to look would be any paperwork/history that you have. Sorry I can't help you further.

By 'one-handed' operation, they mean that the spring lifters (not the gas struts) are strong enough to clear the latch when the button is pressed, thereby enabling the same hand that pushed the button to then lift the lid. The benefit being that the other hand can retain control of your shopping etc. Otherwise two hands are required, one to push the button and the other to pull the lid clear of the catch to stop it engaging again. Shopping ends up on floor in rain. There are essentially two 'faults' that refer to the boot lid. The failure over time of the spring lifters to pop the lid beyond the catch when the button is pressed, hence the 'double tap' required in the thread title, or two hands to complete the operation, and the failure over time of the gas struts which means the lid requires more assistance to lift fully open and ultimately may fall back down from the open position, usually on the occupants head. Both faults require different solutions, hence the 'penny trick' for the lifters which by inserting any given disc, compresses the spring making it more powerful again (or replace for new items). And for the struts, they can either be re-gassed or replaced, hence the discussion on the merits of using other manufacturers for the benefit of either cost or quality (increased pressure). As the design is used universally across the motor industry you just need the right specification for any given vehicle i.e. length/diameter. Losing weight from the boot lid may assist as either component reduces in performance, but ultimately they will require repair/replacement.

Like any hatch or estate lid, the struts are designed to assist in the lifting of the door, and hold it open when fully extended. Some may open on their own due to different weight/angles, that's just luck of the draw. If you want an automatic 'hands free' type hatch lift, you will need something like a Rolls or Mercedes. :wink:

You are fortunate that one of the most respected zed specialists in the country is in your area. You can do a search for them if you need more info and recommendations, or find them in the member trader section, or just go direct: http://www.abbeymoto...flash/index.php Worth mentioning the forum when you call.

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/45398-bose-phono-ipod-hack-guide/page__hl__%2Bbose+%2Bipod+%2Bhack That's the guide if you want to give it a go.

Possibly better to use a battery conditioner. Safe and easy to use and makes sure you are good to go irrespective of how long you leave the car between runs. May be an insurance issue if you did leave the car unlocked 'knowingly'. Decent conditioners can be had for less than £50. http://www.accumate.co.uk/accumate.htm I've used this one for years, with no problems.

Depends, if he's reading the text for an HR there is only one belt.

The light units are just bolted to the back of the bumper, but you have to either remove the bumper or free it up enough to get behind it to access the fittings. Not difficult, just a bit fiddly in places! The bulbs are changed by removing the rear light units which gives enough of a gap to get your hand behind to change the bulbs. But the gap isn't big enough to get the indicator unit out from behind the bumper though, so it's bumper off to remove the complete unit. Sorry I can't help with the actual tinting information, I expect you'll get some more help on that front in the morning.

The reflectors are incorporated in the rear light units, and from your picture it looks like they are already done. Did you mean the lower units which house the indicators, reverse, and fog lights? Either way both units are removable.

Try this: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/ Pick your model year then the category you need. Contents within that category are listed at the top of each section. FYI 'glass and mirrors' are labled GWpdf. Wing mirror is the very last item, scroll to the bottom of the page.

9.00 - dErZ (Chris) only if im not taking someone elses slot (originally there were only 6 slots) 9.30 - Tinyflier (David). Still OEM. Give me a benchmark before exhaust and Uprev in 2013. 10.00 Humpy 10.30 4RE Peter 11.00 - smudgedon (Jordan) 11.30 Robert Cox (ThriftyFifty) 12.00 Chris Brooklands Kent 12.30 Theres always been ethel (Don) 1.00 Andy James. Mark is fitting a new clutch on Friday so as it would be good to catch up with you guys iv just booked a hotel! 1.30 2.00 Pbomb 2.30 Arran 3.00 3.30 4.00 If you are going to add yourselves to the list, make sure it's the correct one and not an older quoted list (which has happened above). Otherwise you will end up double booking time slots. Not going, just happy to help.

Transmission can be fairly noisy at idle in neutral, it's a common 'non' issue. So I would suggest a second opinion before you commit to any work, especially as there are no other symptoms at the moment. Mileage may give some indication if you know whether the clutch has been replaced before, although driving style (yours, or a previous owner) can have a big effect on this, so not an exact science. General consensus suggests replacing the flywheel at the same time as the clutch if you do have to go down that road to avoid similar expense in the future. Good luck.

It's easy to make something sound difficult or dangerous if you want to. Like most things, if you know what you're doing it's easy, if you're not sure how to do it properly then go from the front or get someone else to do it.

Unless you need the wheels off obviously. That's what stands are for, but if you don't know how to do it safely, then best left to someone who does. I've had no problems in 30 years and don't have to go from planks to ramps to jack to stands, just to lift the front. I can just crack on without having to start and move the car or even open the garage door. I'm not knocking it, at the end of the day you should go with what works for you as long as it's safe. The worst one's are the guy's who post pictures up clearly working under an arch with the sissor jack supporting the car. They'll spend hundreds on new bits and pieces but won't spend another £30 on a basic trolley jack and a couple of stands.

You're unlikely to get enough angle to use a trolley jack that far under the front. Back's okay, but go in from the sides at the front. I use the subframe rather than go anywhere near the sills.

That is not the GT option. All varients share some of those options, eg. electric windows, mirrors, climate, headlight washers. Exclusive to the GT over and above the base model is as stated above; Bose/Leather/Cruise. That's it.