Watshot

It may be that you are holding the 'speak' button down for too long Kyle. A short press initiates the system, while a longer press automatically redials the last dialled number.

As long as a registration plate on the front of the vehicle is level and displays the correct characters in the legal format, and is easily legible from 20 metres to the front of the vehicle, it can be mounted offset if you want. *Licence plate would be a foreign object, typically U.S.

I think that's just to reduce other noise from elsewhere bleeding through, belt and braces. If you haven't noticed and are happy with the sound then it will be fine.

That comparison is only accurate between the two DE models. This is a quote from Mark at Abbey: "HR torque curve is far better than a DE. The Rev up motor is the poor relation in torque output. HR runs the same final drive ratio , just the extra revs it can pull makes the car feel longer legged and the torque curve is far flatter than the DE motor. Inlet plenum on a HR is pretty good never seen anyone make any plenum that is better than the stock twin entry plenum. The stock airboxes we find work best for bhp/torque output , Stillens/Nismo's make great noise but lose bhp due to heat soak. HR motor is a nice piece of kit , get a Uprev tune to sort the silly low AFR's out and your have a sweet motor. But they do turbo charge very well , stock motor will take around 450bhp without even beinging stripped down. Mark"

Two sets here, as KyleR pointed out. viewtopic.php?f=32&t=62634 viewtopic.php?f=32&t=63109

My idea would be search for 'clicky rear axle' then duck and cover with a quality helmet. Just about the most well known 350 fault...

Is that not a picture of two drivers seat squabs though? The passenger seat doesn't have a bulge section between the legs at the front. Not interested myself, but just wondered as he says to check the photos to make sure it's right for your car (usual disclaimer stuff). Maybe worth checking if anyone's thinking of buying.

It replaced the cup holder where a conventional glove box would be on the revamped interior. I think it's meant for business cards........

So it does, quite right. Seems odd to differentiate between an '03 and the rest, but as you say, more likely a listing error. Would suggest it either does all of them or none of them. Nice find, not seen them before.

Says it won't fit a 350........

I don't know if you mean for one that auto closes the windows, but the standard Nissan alarm is already Thatcham category 1. The chap that made the modules for the remote auto fold mirrors isn't available at the moment, according to other threads.

It didn't get the new HR engine (80% revised) until mid '07. Same DE engine with minor tweaks in '06.

Just to give you a bench mark and clarify the guessing on plug prices; both Zman and Horsham sell the 'correct' HR plugs for £100 a set of six. DE are considerably cheaper. Whether anyone would want to put 'cheap' plugs in is their own business. The plugs the op is getting from a forum member are correct and a saving at £80. As for where to have them fitted, you need to keep trying the indys, or for piece of mind, travel to somewhere like Abbey. At the end of the day it may be worth paying more for piece of mind, i.e Abbey, not Nissan. At 54k and five years old you are right to change them now. They are a service item, you don't wait for them to go wrong.

If it was automatic you wouldn't have to hold your finger on the up button....

Yep, just checked, so you don't get any misleading info, and I was right. All U.K cars are fitted with an engine immobiliser and Thatcham category 1 alarm system. Any decent insurer should have this information already on their database. If you need confirmation, search for a brochure and it's listed under security, or check out the Thatcham site here: http://www.thatchamsecurity.co.uk/car/c ... nissan.htm.

Thatcham cat 1, iirc.

Alfa put temperature sensor buttons on the underside of mirrors, but only the nearside though. As for the picture, not a clue.

I think you'll find, for fairly obvious reasons, that they were nicknamed "Stalin's organs".

Exactly. Tax on fuel is the only way to be fair. It's directly proportional to the vehicle you choose to drive, the way you drive it and the miles you cover. (just cut the bloody fuel duty first before it swallows up the road tax). Haulage would be handled under the business use etc to get whatever benefits are due.

Make sure the tape carriage is in the 'play' position. Poke with a finger/pencil or use an old tape.

Take the tail light unit out which affords a gap to access the rear of the indicator/reverse light unit. Unlikely to fix your sensor problem, more likely the switch as above, did they go at the same time? If you have a hand book all this info on bulbs and changing is in there.

[quote name="smudgedonIF it's fitted' date=' it has to be working If it's not fitted, then it's not considered a fail. Strange MOT rules [/quote] Rear wipers, fitted or otherwise, are not part of the MOT test. The guy testing SMD's Punto was wrong. I can understand how he may have misinterpreted the rules, but that doesn't change the fact that rear wipers are not included. The inclusion and performance of wipers relates to the windscreen, and the windscreen is taken as the glass through which the driver views the road in a forward facing direction. It's just chinese wispers; a guy down the pub said, I saw it on a forum, my mates a mechanic. Next thing you know even the tester believes it because he does a dozen tests a day and hasn't looked at the rules for five years. And you know what these guys are like when they get a bit of power......

RTBiscuit (did I mention I've got a Jaaaag V8) does them.

Bought it online from a kit car supplier. Just measure around the circumference (think I bought about three metres, priced per metre, so round up) start at the middle on the bottom edge (after cleaning surface with white spirit or similar), peel off backing tape a little at a time and stick it on. Edge of board is rounded, but there is enough to stick to, and once it has cured for a bit it's fine. Mine's been on for a couple of years now, only removed the cover two or three times maybe, but it's all still good.

Here's a couple of pic's to show what I'm on about.... Bracket bolted to the front of the strut box section, using existing bolts. Retains luggage hook and a good sturdy fix. Divider trimmed with 'D' section rubber trim to seal the gap.