Watshot

RTBiscuit (did I mention I've got a Jaaaag V8) does them.

Bought it online from a kit car supplier. Just measure around the circumference (think I bought about three metres, priced per metre, so round up) start at the middle on the bottom edge (after cleaning surface with white spirit or similar), peel off backing tape a little at a time and stick it on. Edge of board is rounded, but there is enough to stick to, and once it has cured for a bit it's fine. Mine's been on for a couple of years now, only removed the cover two or three times maybe, but it's all still good.

Here's a couple of pic's to show what I'm on about.... Bracket bolted to the front of the strut box section, using existing bolts. Retains luggage hook and a good sturdy fix. Divider trimmed with 'D' section rubber trim to seal the gap.

Meguires specifically recommend against using Ultimate for claying. They use standard or NXT. Don't know why, but you can save some cash and leave it for other 'final' or quick detailing, and use the cheaper stuff for clay lubricant. From the horse's mouth at Meguires detailing seminar couple of years ago.

Check you're not using an American English spell check. Usual culprit.

I wanted to retain the luggage hooks, so I made my own fixings. With a small slot cut in the trim, a bracket can run virtually straight up the front face of the strut brace. Simply using an existing bolt to secure to the face, there is plenty of room behind the trim. I trimmed the brackets with black felt, and also hinged the bottom set so that I have a flat boot floor when I want to use it, so I retain all the functionality of the boot and the luggage hooks and have sturdy, neat fixings for the tonneau. Also trimmed the gap around the board with some 'D' section rubber trim to completely seal the boot. Matches perfectly.

Agree, fits HR no problem. Same as the others, takes minutes...

Leave it to soak for a few minutes. You won't get it off straight away, and it may take two or three goes. As above glue and tar remover is best (as it is actually glue).

My Honda stubby is nothing like as bad as that, which is why it tends to be the stubby of choice on this forum. Oem looks and quality for those that don't want something that looks like it has come from Halfords or ebay (or Nissan), and doesn't have any performance issues. The one in the op's picture doesn't look right at all, maybe a copy?

If you buy a decent conditioner there is no drain and no overcharging, it keeps it on a float charge, constantly monitoring the condition for maximum performance and life (unlike a 'trickle' charger). It won't make a battery last forever but it will last longer than disconnecting it with an occasional charge, and save messing around with it on and off the vehicle. It also allows the car to be locked and alarmed and can be left for extended periods without damage, but starts on the button first time. As Beavis has indicated, once the lead is attached you don't even have to open the bonnet. Mine has a waterproof cap and sits just out of sight in the scuttle tray. Your disconnected battery will still go flat and require a full charge every now and then, and whilst it is better than letting it go flat connected to the vehicle, this will still have a detrimental affect on the battery. Depending on your situation, you may have issues with your insurance if the vehicle is not left locked/immobilised/alarmed properly, if it's sorned then of course that's up to you.

One month of above average rainfall doesn't replenish three years of below average rainfall. So yes there is a drought in parts of England that isn't going away overnight.

That would be more for final finishing. Initially you need something far more aggressive like a drill with wire brush wheel etc. Obviously with the parts you want to do this is only feasible if they are removed from the engine, which is why most folk who want this type of thing on a DE engine generally do the plenum as it's highly visible, and easily removed. On an HR it isn't a problem. Not familiar with the DE, but on the HR only one timing chain cover is easily removed without any stripping down.

I had similar problems which appeared to be linked to the cassette carriage having seized through lack of use (I guess!). Even though I had removed the arm to fool the system into thinking the unit was loaded. Either way, freeing it up and ensuring that it is in the play position appears to be key. Others have poked with pencils or loaded old cassettes to engage the carriage. I would check this out first.

Nice work.

Frankie Howard...1973....I thank you.

Or every five years. Early HR's will be due this summer. All servicing is mileage or time dependant. Items degrade with time as well as use. Also good practise to lubricate the threads (i.e. Copperslip) on modern long life plugs. In the past when they were junked every six/twelve months, and only cost a fiver, this wasn't a problem, but when they could spend five years and thousand's of miles between changes, there have been instances of seizure.

Doesn't even have to be OEM parts, just need to be of equal or higher specification. For example, oil would be of the acea spec given in the handbook, doesn't have to be 'Nissan' branded or recommended, as used by dealerships. Amazing how many people think their pride and joy will explode if it doesn't have a main dealer monkey change the oil and filter and 'check' various other items. One of those things where paying more really doesn't get you the best service.

1440kg

viewtopic.php?f=35&t=30870&hilit=window+guide Try that.

I enquired after a stamp/inspection to maintain my body/paint warranty whilst the car was still under manufacturers warranty, and was told by Nissan that they would be happy to quote me for the work required to carry out an inspection, in able for them to honour their paintwork guarantee So it appears that if you take up your legal right to service the vehicle away from Nissan main dealers, they will use the paintwork stamps as a revenue device. Subsequently if you are not up to date and have a problem, you may well be on your own. Perhaps they should advertise the fact that they have a 12 year anti perforation warranty available free if you maintain a FNSH, otherwise available at a cost of £xxx paid annually. Just for transparancy.

Yes. Should be a sticker inside the petrol flap and details in the handbook if you have it.

No requirement for front reflectors in the bumper, otherwise every car would have them, which they don't. More of a nod towards U.S legislation I would have thought. Side repeaters which flash orange are a legal (and M.O.T) requirement however, that's the one's below the Z badge on either wing.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/350z-parts ... 6_742.html Parts 21468/9 ? U.K versions have additional cut outs for nearside washer bottle tubes to cross in front of rad. In reality they just box in the sides of the rad, I assume this is what you are looking for?

In a manner of speaking...yes. Do the 'Bose ipod hack' and the tape function becomes mp3/ipod. Works very well. Iirc there is something you can do about the skipping cd's as well (besides the smack to the knee pad) would be worth doing whilst inside the unit perhaps.