Watshot

There's a lot of things I don't like, but it doesn't mean I go around shooting them..........sorry I don't like tools.

And the irony of that is that Opie oils are currently giving away 1 litre free with every 5 litres of Fuchs Pro S 5w30.

Back on now. Funded by the police themselves. Lots of stats doing the rounds about so many thousands of motorists getting caught compared to this time last year, so looks like people are prepared to take the risk thinking they are still off. Of course no mention of any changes in accident rates, funny that.

EH370z works for a Nissan franchise and has already HPI'd it for you and it's come up clean. It's all in his post above your last post.

About 6 inches up

What's the mileage? Might be more obvious if it needs a new motor if you've been to the moon and back.

Okay, take it easy bud.

The point is it has to be able to retract. If it gets to the point where you move forward, but when you move back it doesn't come with you, then yes it may still lock when it is hit, but you will accelerate before hitting it and it will not necessarily be in the correct position. That is dangerous and potentially life threatening. That's why it's an MOT fail. Although, as I pointed out, you may get through on discretion if it's only effecting the last few inches.

Harness doesn't allow forward movement, therefore doesn't need to retract. Normal inertia reel seat belts work on the basis of allowing forward movement but taking up the slack when reversed, that's kind of the whole point of it. And yes, it is technically an MOT fail if the belt is not retracting properly. But as the last few inches does have this problem quite often in a lot of cars, and it would not be enough to get around an occupant, i.e the belt works normally when wound out to it's usual working position, you tend to find that the tester may use his discretion. Or not even notice. I have often picked up cars from MOT to find the belts pulled out and clicked into place, but not returned.

For example: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brembo-brake- ... 2eb5cc0fb3

You can buy new Brembo decals and fit them once you've finished your new paint job. Try the bay first.

I'm happy enough with mine. And they serve a purpose, especially the front one's which protect the doors and cills from stones and other muck. Click thumnail for larger view.

You don't measure ride height from the bodywork. The wings could easily be 5 mm out through alignment of the panel gaps. Ride height is measured from components in the suspension. I don't know what specifically on a Z, but usually a set point on the hub and a wishbone, i.e. something that would close or open up subject to changes in the geometry. May have been from a level surface up, really can't remember now, but measuring say from a wing edge to the centre of a wheel is never going to line up. Obviously a 'general' reading of space above the tyre to see if it can be lowered is a separate thing, but won't tell you if your springs are sagging.

In this type of situation there are two variables to deal with, airbourne sound through cracks and gaps, which is unlikely, but worth checking (behind skirting boards, cracks around room perimeters etc.). Maybe they leave a window open, then you do the same in warmer weather and it's like you're in the room together. However, it's more likely you're trying to deal with sound transmitting directly through the walls, and the only real way to deal with that is by increasing mass. It's likely that your party wall is only one brick or block thick, with plaster each side, and there's not a lot you can do without encroaching on some space in your property, and it might not make a huge amount of difference. Things like staircases will have direct fixings to the wall so the sound when someone thumps upstairs will be amplified. The only way to minimize this kind of noise is to build a secondary wall on your side with a minimum amount of mechanical fixings to the original wall, but your own staircase is likely to mirror theirs, thereby negating the effect as it allows a route through your wall. If you can't afford to lose any space, but were planning to re-plaster anyway, then it would be worth using acoustic plasterboard and maybe doubling up, making sure that the joins in each layer are offset. If you can lose a bit of space, add some pur type insulation (Celotex/Kingspan etc.) thereby increasing the mass. There are likely to be products on the market with fantastic claims, but to be honest they're not likely to produce much more of a result, and will certainly be stupidly expensive. Best of luck.

Do you mean drilled? Because if they are vented they will be thicker than solid discs and the calipers will be different to accomodate the different widths, although the diameters will be the same. If you mean drilled (or grooved) it won't make any difference to the fitting. Vented are like two separate discs joined in the middle by cooling veins which keep a gap between the 'two' discs. They could be around 30mm thick, where as a solid disc will be around 12mm thick. The pistons in the caliper wouldn't be able to take up that amount of slack, so you would need to change them.

You don't lose all of your nine years no claims for one claim, just a proportion. Check your policy for details. New front bumper from Nissan (Holdcrofts) last year was about £400. Proper paint job would be in excess of £200. Fitting is obviously extra unless you diy, but if your wing and headlight have been biffed aswell it might need a bit more to get it all lined up properly again. Of course the irony with insurance is that even if you do find the culprit and their insurance pays up, your premium will still go up as you have a 'no fault' claim. As far as the industry is concerned, you are now statistically more likely to be involved in another accident and therefore a higher risk. You may find your 'grey' car is in fact primer, may be worth double checking. Sorry to here your bad news chap, hope you get it sorted without too much pain.

FYI, the national speed limit on a dual carriageway, unless marked otherwise, is 70mph. Still, good to know that there could be a twenty mph differential caused in an instant by a 'safety' camera, by those that are aware of the highway code and everybody else.

Thanks James B. Nice to get a mention when you put some effort into a post. We now need a boarders smilie!

You need to clarify what type of riding you do and go from there. It's all a matter of personal preference but as a beginner you need comfy boots. If your going to be hitting the park (freestyle, jumps, rails etc) you would tend towards a soft flex boot. Hard and fast downhill would be a stiff boot. Think of it like a car suspension, high speed bends you need stiffer set up to maintain control. The boots will have a flex and stiffness rating which will give an indication of what they are aimed at. Realistically as a beginner I would suggest you aim somewhere in the middle (assuming general recreational riding). Ultra stiff boots can take some getting used to, and will be a bit aggressive for a newbie (and uncomfortable, like ski boots). Too soft, and whilst they may feel like slippers, changing direction at speed may be sloppy and unpredictable. When trying boots, your toes should 'just' scrape the end of the boot, when you 'assume the position' they will naturally pull back a little. Make sure that your heel is kept securely in place, there is a lot of manufacturers bumpf about heel restraint systems etc, it makes no odds if it doesn't keep your heel planted. Nothing worse than overcooking that toe side turn and everything is lifting and your toes are screaming, and you run off into the trees 'cause your boots were sloppy. Did I mention, buy a helmet? Check out the different lacing systems as well. It can be hard work getting boots tight using conventional laces, but they are easier to repair and generally cheaper. There are other options using wire cables that you just pull on and they tighten evenly and have a non return system so lacing in the morning is a doddle, saves some of the sweat before you even get outside. As I said before, your best bet is to get into Ellis Brigham in MK as you live there, they have a good range of the latest stuff and will let you try on as much as you need. It's completely pointless recommending makes, as what works for one may be uncomfortable for another. Most new boots these days come with heat reactive inners that will shape to your foot to a degree. Check out the online reviews to narrow down your choice to your particular needs, then go try a few. Don't be rushed.

People had the same problem with badge snobbery when a tractor manufacturer decided to make cars. Anyone worried about a raging bull on the front of a Lamborghini now? Kudos to Nissan for giving it a go. Whose to say in thirty years or so the badge won't have the same respect as Lamborghini do now? If they don't already amongst the 'less bothered'.

Should be between chin and nose, depending on your preferred style, freestyle, freeride etc. For a beginner assuming general mountain use, at six foot you should be looking around the 164cm mark. I wouldn't waste your money on indoor slopes, save up for a week or two away and try to forget about it in the summer! They are incredibly limited and get boring within half an hour. If you've done time in real snow you've already out grown an indoor slope. Kit wise, your best bet is to read up on reviews etc for your style and preferences, then go to the SBA (Ellis Brigham) in MK and check out the gear, they may have some older stock to shift. Boots should be tried for as long as possible before buying, different makes have different fit so won't suit everyone. Just because your mate says his Burtons are fantastic, doesn't mean you won't be crippled after half an hour in them. Try to buy the best you can afford. I know that may be easier said than done, but remember, it should last you for a few seasons so becomes better value the more you use it. The bonus of not being in the rush at the hire shops on day one is worth the cash alone, straight up that first lift! Don't forget a helmet, at very least it saves you from getting smacked in the ear by all the dicks swinging their ski poles around..... Resort wise, depends what you want from your holiday. Reviews will tell you all that. None of them can guarantee snow (although they try), we are all at the mercy of the weather. Stateside can be better in that respect, but not always, and the cost soars. Above all, avoid holiday periods, check all countries. French half term doesn't necessarily coincide with UK for example, (unless you like crowds or have kids.....). I ride race bikes and found boarding is the closest thing to giving you that buzz, you've made a wise choice my friend.

The point is...........you've got to pull it out. That doesn't mean the tyre's punctured. If you're lucky it's a short hole which wears away with the rest of the tread over time just like the deep grooves, no problem. If it's punctured, then take it from there....

You've got to pull it out, otherwise, even if it hasn't gone through yet, as the tyre wears it will eventually push through. Better to deal with it now under controlled circumstances than trying to deal with it at 150mph spinning down the autobahn (or whatever).

They're not interested in what you're qualified to do, the perceived risk comes from the trade you're employed in. You might be a qualified rocket scientist, but if you're spending a month on the bins, then as far as your insurance company is concerned, you're a bin man.

Hate to state the obvious, but........................... Generally seems to have that kind of thing lying about. I know he had some HR's in not so long ago, got to be your best bet.