Watshot

Doesn't matter if the washer grommet leaks, it goes through to a rain channel anyway. But easy enough to get the right size I suppose, sits right and won't move around.

Face lift lights have orange led's at the top side, instead of the orange reflective strip. People are confusing what is lit, and what is reflective.

Early lights were Xenon, face lift lights are Bi-Xenon and have led's in place of the orange strips. Change was in '06.

Buying sight unseen? Have you had it checked out by a third party? Bit of a leap of faith but I hope it works out for you, certainly looks good in the photos!

Take it off and refit it in the correct position on the spline. If it still has the full sweep (as implied by continuing over the boot) then you should be okay. Probably just slipped on the gear when/if it was pushed.

You can get a 'Scorpion' from Tarmac Sportz on here for under £400, which is the two bits you are after. Apparently noise friendly and stainless to avoid any future problems. You certainly don't have to change any more than that in one go if you don't need to. Either way I would avoid paying main dealer prices, plenty of other options.

If you're refering to the text on 8-18, I think they are suggesting how you can leave the car securely locked with the battery disconnected, and subsequent re-connection. For working on the door in this instance, you just need to make sure the window is droped as far as you like, before the battery is disconnected, for the reason stated above. When re-connected you will have to operate the window up and down to re-engage the auto-drop. Basically, don't worry about it.

Just wind them down a couple of inches so that when the auto drop stops working with the battery disconnected they don't slam into the seals if you forget and shut the door.

Go to 'Forum index', first box titled 'General', midway down the 'General' box 'The Trading Post' section, halfway along the subforums in the bottom line, scroll over and click on 'Zeds for sale'. Or just click on the link above...

You won't even need the radio code. Drop the windows and crack on, nothing to worry about.

313 HR is a completely reworked engine; doesn't need any spacers.

If any car has done less than 9K per annum, then the minimum service requirement is once a year. Otherwise every 9K as stated above. If you've only got £5.5K to play with, I hope you have allowed plenty for insurance at 21 on a high powered sports car......

The oil pressure increases with engine speed, so assuming you have the correct level of oil, what you describe would appear normal. Although there is no indication of 'limits' in the handbook, and I can't say that I have glanced at mine when I have redlined it.

[quote name="scubapics Isn't that because he has taken out a third party fire and theft policy? That means his insurers liability extends only as far as reimbursements third parties (damage to property' date=' injury, death), reimbursements to the owner if the vehicle is stolen or the vehicle is destroyed in a fire. Surely Admiral are not liable in any way to chase the third party for damages as the owner hasn't paid for these services? I'd really would like to be shown otherwise, I really would. I've just read through Admiral's policy with respect to third party and in no way does it state that it will pursue damages owed to the policy holder on the policy holder's behalf. The only place I could see this is if the cover was comprehensive. Jim[/quote] scubapics wrote: "You only have third party fire and theft so that doesn't cover any damage to your car I believe" I was merely clarifying the position that the level of Evilscorp insurance affecting his ability to claim was irrelevant. Part of his issue was the lack of support from Admiral/Albany, if you read my post properly, I did not suggest that they should help, only that marketing may try to lure customers with suggestion to the contrary. At least you have now read their small print, most people don't bother.

That makes no difference, he's claiming from the other party who have admitted liability. If he was comprehensive on the shed, he would still be claiming from the other party. The issue is the lack of support from his own insurers and their subs, an area which, no doubt, they made great plays on to generate and secure business in the first place. Like you said, "why bother". Once they have your money they're like rats on a sinking ship. I would suggest that you put the onus on the other parties insurers (which you would have expected Admiral to do for you) to sort out your car. They have a claim against them, tell them in no uncertain terms to sort it. It's up to them to inspect the vehicle to decide whether repair is viable. If, as you suspect, they will consider it a total loss, make sure you only accept market value or better, you're not obliged to accept their first offer. As Scuba suggested, if you have any legal services attached to any other policy's, memberships, credit card's, home insurance, give them a call for advice, or even the citizens advice bureau. Make sure you keep records of all correspondance etc. Whilst the other party has probably just called his claims hotline to sort everything, it is unlikely that his broker will be interested, they would just refer you back to your own insurer, or at best, the other parties actual insurance company. At least you can tell Admiral to get stuffed at renewal. Either way, you have a legitimate claim, stay cool, and don't let the b@stards grind you down. Best of luck.

You can disconnect the battery without having to input the code when re-connected. That's all you need confirming isn't it?

Have they tried balancing the wheels ON the car? Not very common these days, but it allows everything that turns when you are moving, to turn in the garage. That way you may be able to rule out two or three corners. If you narrow it down to one corner, swap wheels, and it may tell you whether it's hub/brake related rather than one or more wheels. It could keep the costs down if you can narrow it down to a single corner. Best of luck.

If you are just changing the bulbs in future, they can be accessed by removing the tail light units and reaching down through the gap. Removing the indicator units requires the bumper taking off to a degree. It's not too difficult, just one plastic bolt on each side under the tail lights which has to be turned can be a bit of a pain, the access is awkward. I messed about with one side for ages, the other side I had no problem. The rest of it is easy.

If it's not already in the pipeline I would suggest 30 quids worth of plastic guttering. In heavy rain there will be a lot of splash back on the low side which will go everywhere including up the side of your car, and will, in time, accelerate the rotting at the bottom of the posts on that side. Otherwise

I'm afraid there's no magic tip, you've just got to pull harder! There are plastic poppers all the way around and they can be very tight. Maybe try the back corner first, there are poppers a few inches along both the vertical and horizontal edges, hook your fingers under each edge, and with your knee against the door to offer resistance, give it a sharp pull. Once out, the others should follow suit as you work your way around. Good luck!

Received and fitted, works perfectly. Many thanks Cookie.

Nice work there chap.