Watshot

I think it was standard. It's just that anyone selling a car doesn't seem to be able to resist taking it out and sticking it on ebay for an extra £60, with no apparent effect on the selling price of the car. It's like years ago when you had to make sure they hadn't half inched the tool kit and spare.

More likely in the cubby between the seats, under your elbow. But that's probably what you meant to say . The cradle should be wired in through the bottom of the cubby, whether you have the adapter or not. If you havn't come accross that in ten months maybe it's not there or been removed for some reason.

That's the home made mdf version of the boot divider that was kicking around a while back. Friction fits under the strut bar from the rear. The Nissan version whilst expensive (if you can find one) fits flush accross the front of the bar which gives you neatly divided space while maximising the boot space. [/img] Sorry, haven't got a better picture from inside the boot!

Sorry, can't work out what AFR's are..............air/fuel ratio maybe?

Contact Opie (Oilman on the forums) and ask their advice. I know Oilman covers a lot of forums so may not pick up on this here, best to ask directly. Even though the blurb mentions Nissan, every oil in the product finder for the 350Z is 5w30, even the Motul 8100. The 'upgrade' oils don't even include the Motul. So Opie recommend 5w30, Abbey recommend 5w30, and Nissan specify 5w30. The only conflicting opinion seems to be on the back of a bottle of Motul 0w40. If you want to buy that, then best to call them and ask, although there seem to be plenty of alternatives with the correct grade around that price mark.

It's normal. The noise disappears when you depress the clutch pedal because you are removing the drive to the gearbox, hence it stops spinning. Once you take up drive in gear you won't here it over the rise in revs/road noise etc. As the gearbox is on the back of the engine the noise will appear to come from under the floor rather than the engine bay. Unless it's really excessive, you can relax and.....

It's not a strut brace in the conventional sense, just a box secton of bodywork trimmed for asthetics, which obviously firms up the rear end. Just remove/replace the trim with any squeak easing solution you prefer!

That was an odd one in the end. It went up well above £10K then must have had some bids retracted/removed, ended up going for around 9 I think. Must have been idiots putting on joke bids or something. Still, they make ebay a little more interesting than the usual 'Here we have..........a piece of crap, thank's for looking'

Agreed, there's too much to see to spend all your time in a stand. I did find that if you walk up the hill a bit for a different view, some of the stands were free anyway. And two days would be ideal, one to wander, and one to watch all of the action, but that's a fair commitment then. Either way, it's a great day out.

Kind of answered your own question there Mike My HR took all five litres to max mark, so four is going to be nowhere near.

Yep, as above, U.K GT, no GT reference on V5.

The problem is that with a car that age you will only have a dealer style warranty, not a manufacturers new car warranty. They would generally only cover major mechanicals, and certainly not a clutch due to the risk of abuse. You need to check the small print carefully. A lot of those items should have been negotiated at the point of sale as you say they were apparent then, they are just 'second hand car' snags. Unless you specifically mentioned them and the salesman agreed to rectify as part of the deal. You need to push for the 'clicky axle' repair to be done properly, this may well be covered by the warranty. Greasing is not an effective repair. Likewise, clunking from the rear may be suspension related, droplinks etc, and again, may or may not be covered. Either way you need to push hard or they will try to avoid it. You can't buy a 6+ year old car and expect them to return it to new condition, unless, as I said, you negotiated at the point of sale. Incidentley, Nissan won't want to have anything to do with it, it's well out of manufacturers warranty and your contract is with the dealer. Keep on at them though, the more noise you make, the greater the chance that they will do it to get rid of you. Frustrating I know, but that's the way car dealers work. Best of luck.

Yes, got those. Can't remember who from, but they are a direct replacement. Easy fit, like for like, look good.

Forced induction. (Turbo/Super charging)

The handbook actually specifies the correct working range as 6 to 7 clicks, with a pulling force of 196N (20kg, 44 lb). If you over tighten you run the risk of binding when the brakes heat up.

Just heat it carefully until the glue softens, then lift away. Clean any remaining glue with remover or spirit. Should be no need to paint unless you over do it with the heat and bubble the paint, unless you were painting for another reason? Just takes patience, and gentle heat. Yeah, what he said

Yes, take the trim off (usual tight poppers, some may snap, only designed to go one way. ) then the motor just unbolts. Unplug the cable and tape it securely so that it doesn't rattle around in the tailgate. Bit of sealant under a grommet and you're done. I can't remember exactly how the washer nozzel comes out, but it is very easy. See my comment above about the tube and grommet. I think it was just a nut or something, but you'll see when you look at it, nothing to worry about.

If you remove the washer nozzel, the valve in the end of the pipe can be reversed to prevent leakage. Very easy to do, just need the grommet for the glass. And no, there is no risk of a leak through the window, as that section empties into the void above the boot seal, which carries away rain water that runs off the roof and down the panel gap. Think it may have been a 20mm for the nozzel, can't remember off hand, but there was a guide someone posted up not so long ago that had all the info. If you don't remove the washer as well, the worst that can happen is a squirt of water on the rear screen should you push the lever. Not the biggest problem. If you're deleting the wiper, you may as well take the washer nozzel off. Flat grommet in place of an off centre black knob. Makes sense as it's for looks anyway, and only takes 5 minutes.

'immaculate interior' ......apart from needing a new dash and steering wheel as both front airbags have deployed. Still, least of your worries.......

As above, it's the brake wear indicator. You can see it on the diagram. Only on one pad per pair. When the pad has worn the metal comes into contact with the disc and gives off a high pitched squeel, alerting you to the fact that your pads need changing. You're right: don't skimp on brakes and tyres

You will find it difficult to clean them on the car as there is limited access to the rear of the brake disc and a risk of contaminating the pads, if you have not done so already. Discs always come with temporary surface protection as they are steel and will begin to rust at the first mention of moisture (like five minutes after you have washed the car). This is okay in normal use as regular driving will clean up the surface again, but if you are a manufacturer trying to sell brake discs, they don't want a load of inexperienced diy mechanics sending them back because they are 'rusty'. Hence the light oiling, and cleaning instructions. You really need to get them off and do it properly, and the pads if you have touched the pedal causing contact. Washing is only part of it, the protection will be oil based, hence the need for soap and brake cleaner. I have used white spirit before.

Homebuilders & Renovators show at the N.E.C Birmingham this week. Has a couple of seminars on financing projects at various times on different days. Appear to be four companies exhibiting under 'Finance, insurance & mortgages', (One of which is Buildstore). Link: http://national.homebuildingshow.co.uk/ ... rlist.aspx There's a regional show at Sandown Park in Surrey this June as well. Best of luck.

You're looking for the number code to re-activate the radio which goes into security mode if the power is interrupted, i.e. the battery is disconnected. If you can't find it in any of your purchase literature (the code's unique to that radio, it's not printed in any manual that comes with the car) then contact Nissan and they may help, but will require proof of ownership etc.

If it's put away with some damp in and around the wheels, say from washing (even if you've dried the body) the rust forming on the bare steel discs will bind to the pads and after a relatively short time it will take a little effort to 'break' the grip. Even with the handbrake off. This will tend to clean up again once the car is used and the brakes are applied a few times. Have you checked the discs for signs of rust, especially on the inside face where there is less air circulation and more chance of rust forming? If you move it forward, sometimes you can see 'witness' marks on the disc from the shape of the brake pads. If you can rule this out, then obviously you need to get it checked out whilst it's still in warranty. But it sounds exactly like what I've described. Best of luck.