Watshot

It's illuminated both sides when the lights are on. Also HR engine has redline increased to 7.5k. Orange strip in the headlights was replaced on later models by four orange leds which come on with the lights.

Couldn't be bothered to roll it forward to take a picture of the back. Hiding something, or just can't be bothered? Either way, Not saying it isn't worth a look, but some people don't help themselves. Hope it checks out for you.

No, it's not recommended. As long as they are torqued correctly they should be fine. As for removing, they are in an easily accessible place to get the biggest bar necessary on them if it was required, but you don't really want to introduce anything that might cause them to loosen unexpectedly. I think I read it in a hand book or somewhere that manufacturers do not recommend doing this. I know it's still common umongst some mechanics, but if you think about it, the wheels come off fairly often (when compared to other items) and with the easy access, removal should never be that much of a problem. Just clean them up a tad if they have some rust or muck and pop them back in.

Seller is not obliged to publish any questions, so it is unlikely that he would if he was indeed pulling a fast one...

P3 is an annomally. If you read the service schedule listed on the forum somewhere, if you don't have the book, it's the same as a P2. So don't get hooked up on having to have a P3. Normally a dealer will ask for the service book when the car is left to enable them to stamp it. Just asking, how do you know your car has had 4 P1's and a P2 if your book isn't stamped? Also other items fall under mileage/time requirements that are additional to the 'P' services, which are essentially oil & filter changes and inspections. Spark plugs, coolant, brake fluid etc will all require additional requests on top of the 'service' or they won't touch them. They may however recommend them if they know their stuff.

It's not about being a cheapskate. It's about having control over the quality of oil that is put in your car. Many garages use what they would tell you is a 'quality' oil that covers all of their customer base and gives them the best margins. A decent independent shouldn't mind you supplying your own oil (they would just mark it up if you asked them to supply it). It's just an enthusiasts choice. Of course you run the risk of supplying your £50 tub of liquid gold, and finding the boss has put it in his own car and filled yours with vegetable oil, handing back the bottle and saying "all done mate". But then I'm cynical. Although any garage I have had to use in the past has done nothing to persuade me otherwise!

There is no legal requirement for a side reflector otherwise all U.K cars would have them. I would assume they are a nod to the U.S market where that type of thing is common. Not sure about the legality in the U.S. The only requirement for the U.K market in that respect is the side indicator which should flash orange. Obviously the trend has gone towards using orange bulbs with white lenses as these look better than the previous orange 'blobs' on the sides of cars. Why Nissan would follow this trend on the Z, then choose to fit a massive 8 inch orange reflector in the sides of the front bumper remains a mystery. The least they could have done was fit white reflectors for markets that preferred to lose the orange....as with the indicators. At least they are not as noticeable on an orange car.

'Rotors' is the American term for brake discs. The same as in the U.K we don't say 'trunk' when we mean 'boot', or 'fender' when we mean 'wing'. And whilst we're at it it's spelt: Brake, not break. Disc, not disk. That's one that has bled through from the eighties computer industry: 'floppy disk'. Good. Carry on.

Not on mine. Perhaps you changed your settings to go through the 370 site?

There is no panel lower than that. Probably explains why you can't find one. You would have to put your head on the floor to see up there (as you have done with the camera). It's not considered necessary to cover something that would be so awkward to see in normal circumstances. There you go, you've just saved a pot load of cash.

If that was the case I don't think Cookbot would have just wasted his time with the fix in the thread mentioned above, or a dozen or more members would have bought that fix. I guess you tried it before writing that? Maybe you bought a car that already has the fix, or an import or something with a different configuration, but UK cars don't do this.

He said he used Autoglym not Meguires. But Meguires do 3 types of 'Quik' detailer, the Ultimate is not for use with clay bars. But like I said, I don't think this is about Meguires.

If you can get the 90 degree clips off you've done the hard part and may as well take the whole thing off to make life easy. You don't have to but it's easy enough and saves risking 'over flexing' the bumper if you are struggling. I found one of the 90's easy, the other a right pig. Trouble is they are plastic and easily rounded. If they were metal they would be easy. The rest of it's a breeze, just take your time.

Because most imports will be JDM, and they drive on the same side as us, hence the steering wheel on the same side. So their lights will dip left.

I've used Concept products, but they're only available in 5 litres for trade use. Anything marketed as a 'tar & bug' remover from Halfords and the like will do. As before, patience is the key, let it soak in to any heavy deposits first. Ideal for removing sticky number plate pads too.

That's why you use hot air, not water.

Unfortunately you made a meal of that. All you need is a hot air gun (or hairdryer), gently heat the area for a few minutes, then pull the badge off with your fingers. Remaining glue is easily removed with glue & tar spot remover. Result: perfectly clean area and no damage caused with blunt (or sharp) objects. Patience is the key, move the heat around so as not to over do it on a single spot and risk burning paint, you're trying to gently soften the glue, not burn it off. Some people shy away because of this, but you have to be a ham fisted tw@t to burn it really. Same with the glue remover, give it time to soak in first, re-apply and it comes off in a few seconds.

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UK GT gets electric heated leather seats, upgraded Bose stereo and cruise control. That's it. Everything else is either model year dependent, UK or import dependent, or off the options list.

Vulcan did a full display at Fairford IAT last July. Probably this year too, although not confirmed yet, they do a lot of fund raising for the restoration and subsequent maintenance there. Ex Concorde pilot lives in my village and gives talks and slide shows about the plane which are very interesting. Reason it was scrapped was purely cost. You have to remember that the project was initiated in the 1950's and the technology was almost outdated by the time it came into (passenger) service in the 70's. Modern engines are massively more efficient, and what with 'green' miles and all that........ Of course if it had been built nowadays it wouldn't have had that iconic dipping nose. That was purely to allow for better vision when landing. Now it would all be video screens and cameras etc. Might have been nice to keep one flying for shows etc, but it's always the cost. I guess a privateer will buy one eventually and try and get it flying again.

As we're in the realms of generalisations; the cost will easily be offset by the tourism generated by continued interest in the monarchy both at home and abroad. This event will bolster that, and stimulate the economy in general. And of course nobody's being forced to watch it, and the self employed, by and large, can work if they want to. I'll be watching for a couple of hours, then enjoy the rest of the day keeping busy. Not often we get to put on a good show and this one looks like it should be a cracker. Good luck to them. and fly past

He was advertising them last week for a good price, around £60 iirc.

I think it was standard. It's just that anyone selling a car doesn't seem to be able to resist taking it out and sticking it on ebay for an extra £60, with no apparent effect on the selling price of the car. It's like years ago when you had to make sure they hadn't half inched the tool kit and spare.

More likely in the cubby between the seats, under your elbow. But that's probably what you meant to say . The cradle should be wired in through the bottom of the cubby, whether you have the adapter or not. If you havn't come accross that in ten months maybe it's not there or been removed for some reason.

That's the home made mdf version of the boot divider that was kicking around a while back. Friction fits under the strut bar from the rear. The Nissan version whilst expensive (if you can find one) fits flush accross the front of the bar which gives you neatly divided space while maximising the boot space. [/img] Sorry, haven't got a better picture from inside the boot!