ZMANALEX

to the forum:

to the forum.

Best to refit it, however, if you are not carrying a heavy load in the boot, then not required. All it does is adjusts your headlight beam to stop dazzling oncoming cars when your boot is loaded.

Sorry, nothing in Silver Rob. Alex.

I have lived here for 35 years and never seen this before. https://www.pressandjournal.co.uk/fp/news/scotland/1424616/deer-take-dander-scottish-town/?utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=PJ Daily Newsletter 2018-02-28&utm_term=Press and Journal - Newsletter

Nissan direct is your best bet.

Have a look here. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_350Z Is it similar to below?

An image of the FRONT of the engine if you are unsure.

Rev up or pre rev up ? Or an image of the front of the engine if you are unsure. Pre rev up are in stock and perhaps rev up also. Alex.

Any codes stored Dougie? What is the condition of the battery? Check battery terminals and starter motor connections. Top up brake fluid right to the top. Report back once above attended to. If you are at Knockhill tomorrow I can have a quick look. Alex.

Congratulations to Flash as he makes the move to WTCR with team WRT Audi. Certainly a big loss to BTCC and Team Dynamics.

If you want to have peace of mind when in the tyre shop using guns then best to stick with OEM or similar quality aftermarket steel. All aftermarket lug nuts including the above are recommended to be only tightened with hand tools.

They are a bit of a pig to get correct, that is why when I am removing/refitting doors I always leave the hinge on the pillar. If I have got to replace a hinge then I always mark the hinge position on the pillar. So I guess that you are now in a situation of adjustment trial and error. If your replacement hinge came from a damaged car, then perhaps the hinge may have a slight twist that you will not see with the naked eye.

There is adjustment on the hinges where they fix to the pillar, so I would guess that you have bolted them up in the wrong position.

http://www.carhood.com/

Crawford is a very good brand: I personally prefer them to Berks.

Hate to state the obvious mate, but you haven't accidentally knocked the window lock switch?

PM received and replied to: In stock and good to go same/next day.

Will fit straight on to the engine with no fitment issues, however, they will not marry up to the DE cats. Plenty in stock if required with matching HR decats or HR hi flow cats. Just drop me a PM if I can help further.

What Rob has said: ^^^

In stock, just drop me a pm if I can help you further. Facelift or prefacelift. ? What colour?

to the forum Scott. Plenty engine parts in stock if required and just up the road in Perth..

Sorry guys but I beg to differ. On stock setups and even with a spacer, I have seen oil pressure drop momentarily on track under severe driving conditions due to oil not being picked up because sucking air instead of oil. So my opinion is that a decent baffle set up can only help this issue to guarantee that you have a constant supply of oil to the engine. Similar to baffles in your fuel tank which are designed to stop the fuel from moving around causing poor performance, fuel starvation and detonation. Even then this can be improved on by fitting an external swirl tank and fuel pump. Just my opinion based on my real life experiences and not information gleaned from the internet. Your choice of proposed spacer/sump upgrade will predominantly depend on which type of tracks you are proposing to use as some are more demanding than others due to more or less corners etc.

I quite like this baffle design. RHD Japan do one similar.

They appear to work okay and not expensive but unsure of the quality. My HKS baffled large sump cost me double that 8 years ago.