ZMANALEX

Very easy to fit a door and swop over the internals, however, the colour match may be your biggest issue Unless your existing door is in bad shape it would be cheaper just repairing and painting your existing door. Your painter will be able to flash into the front wing and rear quarter to get the colour to blend in.

What Richard has said: ^^^^^

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You would have to ask Torqen that question Ryan. However, I notice that the kit in the link does not have the 2 x tensioners for the 2 x cam chains and also does not have the crankshaft sprocket. Some also replace the water pump when in there.

You will only be able to view the main hydraulic tensioner through the inspection cover. Providing that it is not protruding by more than 15mm you will be fine. As this appears to have happened "overnight" I suspect that you may have a broken tensioner/guide plate. Your replacement tensioner/guide plate should be the uprated one as the early ones were flawed. Old Type below showing the failure.

No quick fix or manual adjustment I am afraid.

Sorry, I don't know the answer to your boot foam liner question, perhaps Colin (Ebized) knows, as he has done this.

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Hi Ollie, Genuine Nissan fully working preowned single motors are in stock and good to go same/next day. Just drop me a pm if I can help further. Alex

Space savers still in stock. Best to use the genuine Nissan jack as it was designed for the heavy 350, not like your eBay specials. Complete jack kits also in stock. Just drop me a PM if I can help further.

No, the issue will be ET and tyre size, so fit spacers. Your 18" front tyres have a diameter of 660mm and the 20" is 712mm which is 52mm of a difference which is 7.88% This difference combined with the different ET will be causing your issues. Fit Eibach hub centric spacers. I am assuming that you are running stock suspension.

The ET is different on the LMGT4 rim so you may have to fit spacers. Are you running stock upper arms? If that image is of your actual car, the answer is yes. Is your camber at OEM settings? Are you running correct tyre size?

Straight forward fit as I have done it many times in the shop. If I recall all have had the 20/25 combo spacers fitted. Or perhaps I have had to remove the spacers, can't remember which. Did you remember to remove the locating pin?

Might be best to give CMS a phone as Ewen is not on the forum much. http://clarkmotorsport.co.uk/

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both to the forum.

I have just completed a stage one correction, and gtechniq ceramic CSL black detail, and Xpel paint protection on the front bumper and bonnet on my car. Well worth the effort. Keep up the good work.

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to the forum mate. Nice and refreshing introductory post.

Get your car booked into a 350Z specialists for a professional informed diagnoses before you kill yourself, or worse, some other innocent person.

That is a fairly straightforward repair by a competent body shop with the correct tooling. The last thing that you want to do is replace the panel. If it is a good repair then you would never know. To the informed with a trained eye, you would always spot if a new panel has been fitted.

The problem will arise when you try to sell it, believe me. It just won't be that the residual will be very low, because you will also find that most won't touch it with a barge pole unless it is very, very cheap. There is a stigma regarding recorded cars and that stigma shows no signs of going away. Listen to your brother and walk away.

Cheap as you may think it is, it will only be when you come to sell it, that you will find out if it was or not. Best to buy a straight, accident damage free, unmolested, car IMHO. Alex.

Yeah, just a throw of the dice mate I am afraid.